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HEMI Build: Initial Mockup Pictures

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bored&Stroked, Sep 24, 2007.

  1. Hey Rat - didn't notice that you wanted info on Bullet cams -- here is a WEB link. They are good guys and are highly recommended by Fowler Engines in Columbus.

    http://www.bulletcams.com/


    If you need any expert machine work done - Fowler builds everything from exotic early race engines, to blown alcohol Hemis, to V12 Lincolns. Their shop rates are fair and they are one of the few places I've found that can do everything under one roof and are willing to work on "non standard" engines.
     
  2. CH3NO2JAY
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 244

    CH3NO2JAY
    Member
    from Chicago

    Some racers use additional oiling to the exhaust side via a spray bar. This is a option if you are desperate due to excessive heat from the exhaust valve train or just want the additional or needed oiling...

    Example Below:

    [​IMG]

    Oh yeah, Good Luck with your project... :)
     
    slayer likes this.
  3. krooser
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 4,583

    krooser
    Member

    I beadblasted the red/.blue anodizing off of the water crossover fittings on my 354 (Earl's Product's with black rubber hoses)... kinda has the "early' look...
     
    Deuces likes this.
  4. Where are you positioning the spray bar and what are you trying to add additional lubrication to? The valve tips? Or are you just trying to spray oil on the rocker to take some heat away? What size line and what size holes? Any pictures? I'm ***uming that is your engine - what combination are you running?

    Thanks! Dale
     
  5. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    On the J/F car, Al sprays the valve springs. They generate a lot of heat squezing and streaching
     
  6. Makes sense . . . . they're just using the oil to take some of the heat out of the valvetrain. Given the temperatures that Iconel valves reach in a top-fuel engine, this makes sense to me.

    Any idea how much of an oil temperature drop they see -- or does it come down to valvespring life, component life and/or trying to "keep it together" on a p***? Maybe they're just trying to take some of the heat out of the mechanical pieces of the top-end . . . would seem to help the 'between races' teardown/build process.

    Just curious . . . always want to learn why people do things in addition to the fact they're doing them!
     
  7. CH3NO2JAY
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 244

    CH3NO2JAY
    Member
    from Chicago

    [​IMG]

    On the particular example I showed, I do not own the dragster, but I volunteer my time whenever the team needs it. The head shown is a 392 Webster/BMT Nostalgia Billet Head for Nostalgia Top Fuel Racing. I'm unsure of the clearances in your particular head and rocker ***embly, but I'm going off of what is used on the dragster and I'm ***uming a little to much about your setup, so PLEASE clarify me if I'm off, because I'm just ***uming and you know how that can go. :)

    The example engine I shown in these pictures is from the "Telstar Racing" dragster. You can ask the man himself if you desire at www.telstarracing.com if you want exact specifics and if he has the time to reply back, he will, but he is a very busy man. Since this is a general topic, I can discuss it publicly, but all the fuel secrets I'd have to keep to myself since it's not my place or team to discuss it, if it was my team, I'd be a open book. The previous statement shouldn't matter, because this is a reliability or extra insurance issue. :)

    Since yours is a street engine running on gasoline, you might want to take a slight different approach, but the basic concept could/should help if you have any additional heat problems since oil is more than just a lubricant. You might want to go with smaller holes (I honestly do not know the hole size off the top of my head) to not flood the valve guide with oil on your setup and also the simple observation that the oil viscosity may be different. I'm also ***uming you might be running valve stem seals, but some alcohol/nitro teams do not even run seals on various or all valves, but yours is gasoline anyways. The thing about this idea that makes it cool is it can always be added later if it's needed.

    Another measurement you would have to concern yourself with is it increases the valve cover 1/2" higher (or the size line or adapter plate that your feel is acceptable), this small 1/2" or less might make the engine tighter if you are slipping into a tighter engine compartment, unless it's a open design.

    The entire exhaust Valve train sees A LOT of heat in a nitro setup and you can direct the holes at the Springs and Stems or just one to aid in cooling for prolonged life. I never measured the heat difference from doing this idea and not doing it, but it's just extra insurance in my opinion when it comes to Nitro racing. The Exhaust temps at the end of a run on a Top Fuel (can exceed 1850 degrees) setup is GREATLY different from a Gas or Methanol setup, that is one of the reasons some teams run this additional line.

    I'm sorta rambling now and getting off topic and I doubt I answered any of your ?'s, but your machine shop maybe a good place to bounce the idea off of them and see what they think and see if it's a viable option for your setup and usage.

    I do have a ? for you, do you know the size of your intake and exhaust ports? If you would like to keep that private, I completely understand. Those are some serious port sizes for a street engine, I'm hoping the blower will aid in keeping the fuel suspended in the port to aid in efficient combustion and also help with some low end power...

    Again, you have my respect for trying something different instead of building a common combo, especially for a street setup. There is absolutely nothing wrong with building proven engine combos (it's actually smart in a $$ standpoint), I just dig it when people try to think out of the box and at least give it the good old college try.

    You can always change the setup to alcohol in the future if you have a change of heart...

    OK, enough for tonight, I'm def. rambling on...

    The engine is a 417 displacement. (4.125" Bore & 3.90" Stroke) and it is a Donovan block...

    Edit = If the image size supercedes the forum limit, you may delete or I'll resize it, I kept it below 500 pixels wide on purpose.
     
    tcoupekyle likes this.
  8. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

  9. Gepetto
    Joined: Nov 29, 2007
    Posts: 121

    Gepetto
    Member
    from Orange

    Now why did you have to go and show pics like this? I'm not going to be able to sleep tonight thinking about my hot rod.
     
  10. I SMELL SMOKE
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 1,527

    I SMELL SMOKE
    Member

    i got a 331 at the machine shop now and i can only imagine how much coin you got in that. it is a very nice looking set up and far beyond traditional hot roding standards its more like traditional NHRA standards
     
    Deuces likes this.
  11. vendettaautofab
    Joined: Jan 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,602

    vendettaautofab
    Member Emeritus

    Dale, very impressive, and overwhelming (in a good way).

    Let me know when you need those flanges and brackets for this thing and we can get you taken care of. Did you ever get them drawn up? I think I have the port design file somewhere???
     
  12. BCR
    Joined: Dec 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,265

    BCR
    Member

    Maybe it has been mentioned but I always use the black an fittings as they seem to blend a little better. I order from Redhorsedirect.com

    That is gonna be one wild ride!
     
  13. CH3NO2JAY
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 244

    CH3NO2JAY
    Member
    from Chicago

    I just realized this post was from last year, sorry from the noob...
     
  14. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Actually, I'm glad you bumped it up. I've been wonderin' how that engine is comin...

    WELL??? How's it coming B&S???
     
  15. It has been in "mothballs" all winter (torn down, plastic bags, you know the drill). I'll be painting the block and putting the dang thing back together in the next month or so. I'm going to sell the BG Demon carbs and switch over to some specially build Holley carbs that will perform better and will look more like the 60's (which is the period I'm building for).

    I've been slaving away on my ******** frame jig -- I have named it the "Iron Maiden" . . . as of course I can't just make a simple one! I built two "enigne stand" ends so I can rotate everything 360 degrees, etc.. I much prefer to do my TIG welding in nice positions - so making it rotate sure helps. Also, I made all the upright braces adjustable - to slide on the cross-beams (for different frame widths and configurations). I plan to do my 40 Merc frame and some other frames - so I didn't want to just weld everyting in place for a 34 frame. I'll be doing a posting on the setup and my CAD drawings in a couple weeks.

    I'll update this thread when the beast comes back together!
     
  16. zapp69
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 342

    zapp69
    Member

    Great work so far, what color is the block going to be.

    I have just smoothed my block and after finishing it I swear I will never do it again.
    I need a HEMI like that in my life
     
  17. Rossco
    Joined: Apr 21, 2008
    Posts: 289

    Rossco
    Member
    from SinCal

    The chroooooooome....its blinding
     
  18. I've been pondering the car's color scheme -- and here is how I see it in my mind.

    Body: Black, with a cream colored soft top (want the original soft top as it shows that the body is steel).

    Interior: Cream with maybe some Red mixed in . . . don't know yet.

    Firewall: Cream color to match the top

    Engine Block: Bright red Imron epoxy - will also use this color a few other places in the drive train.

    Buick 45 Fin Drums: Cream Epoxy with a red pin stripe on the top of each fin.

    The general idea is to see the cream color at the top of the car, in the middle (firewall) and on the brake drums - with the red engine and some of the drivetrain setting everything off.

    Wheels - Rear: Halibrand 16 x 10 Original big-window style -- Real Rodder's wheels - with Hurst Pie Crusts

    Wheels - Front: Halibrand 15 x 5.5 - new spindle mount style from Real Rodder's wheels - with the Hurst 'Super Cushion' fronts.
     
  19. zapp69
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 342

    zapp69
    Member

    That is going to make for an awesome 34, with power to spare.
    Keep us updated
     
  20. The Hank
    Joined: Mar 18, 2008
    Posts: 779

    The Hank
    Member
    from CO

    Great googley moogley!!
     
    Deuces likes this.
  21. checkedgoldtop
    Joined: Apr 24, 2009
    Posts: 276

    checkedgoldtop
    Member

    You need a F.E.D. to put that in....
     
  22. spoons
    Joined: Jan 1, 2004
    Posts: 1,738

    spoons
    Member
    from ohio

    Whatever you do, make sure you have a 4 wire mag if you're gonna convert to EFI. We just found out the hard way..........
     
  23. Thats just a work of art. We had put a Donovan in the Studebaker and ran T & D rockers which eliminate the common shaft and puts each rocker on individual stands. Absolutely nothing barks like a Donovan Hemi......Looking forward to your beauty when its finished.
     
  24. D-fens
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 367

    D-fens
    Member
    from Huntsville

    Damn, son.
     
    Deuces likes this.
  25. As I'm going to be running a MSD unit - anything I should know about? When you say a '4-wire mag' - not sure what this means, educate me a bit? I've used regular Vertex mags before - but not with an EFI. I already have a regular 4-port Hilborn (mechanical) - probably won't get to the EFI setup until next winter.
     
  26. spoons
    Joined: Jan 1, 2004
    Posts: 1,738

    spoons
    Member
    from ohio



    We got a Joe Hunt (its a mag look-alike)and found out that it needs a signal transmitter when switching over to EFi ( It had 2/4's on a tunnel ram). Ending up buying an MSD unit as the transmitter. I think its basically a fancy HEI.... Check with the Hilborn site and their tech guys and you understand what I'm talking about<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=759 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD background=images/white.gif bgColor=#ffffff></TD></TR><TR><TD><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=759 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=759 background=images/white.gif bgColor=#ffffff><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=750 align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>
    [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Joe Hunt Hi-Performance Electronic Distributor[/FONT]​
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    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>​
     
  27. Almost 2 years- bump for an update
     
    Deuces likes this.
  28. How about another 2 year bump
     
    Deuces likes this.
  29. Cabbage
    Joined: Apr 17, 2006
    Posts: 745

    Cabbage
    Member

    Bump Bump. Hows the Hemi??? Is it running yet???
     
    Deuces likes this.
  30. Been 5 years on this one.
     
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