Projects Hemi Jeep Altered build

The final axle build begins. This is how I do it. I have tack welded the steering knuckles to the very bottom of the tube. Tack is not really accurate. They must be welded solid enough that they will not break loose but free enough that I can beat them around till I get the camber how I want. This means they will come in at the top from where they are quite a bit. That is because Steering Axis Inclination is different from camber. The king pins lean in towards centre even when the wheel is straight vertical. I will want the top of the wheel leaning out a bit but just enough to give a good point of intersection in the centre of the tire contact patch. I have a little trick that works for me doing this. Once I have that set I will tack some more and recheck. Then weld some more and recheck again . Once I have it welded enough it wont move I will give it a real good strong weld. After clean it up, go over it again until I am totally satisfied it wont give trouble, ever.
The axle is sitting on the jack right about where it will be when done.
I do just a bit at a time so I dont get rangy and work away step by step. It will come together that way with no stress and less errors or corrections. I know you can pick up the phone and order one and that is fine. I enjoy making things. That is why I do it this way. My wife says it is my "knitting"

 

Back at it today after a holiday in Germany. Made a set of extra long king pins from hardwood dowel. I use these to align the front end as I weld it together since with the extra length it is easy to get degrees and see where you are at. I did the sr dragster the same way. You can see the ones i made for it in the pic on my sr dragster website. I am still aiming at having it roll around on all four wheels by Christmas.

 

Set up Camber and KPI today and welded the ends solid. Then I set up the 1/4 eliphtics for their first trial fit. Should have it partially together tomorrow. Trail fit looked good. Steering clears. Plates need a lot of t******* but it is a good start.

 

On her feet! The altered is now standing on her own four wheels. Only the 1/4 eliphtics are supporting the front axle but it is self suppporting which was my goal for before Christmas. I tried to get a photo on here but my old camera wont behave and the new one has too high a resolution. The long wooden King pins help greatly in constuction allowing a very visual indication of caster and King pin inclination

 

still cool! keep us posted!!

 

ALIGNING THE FRONT AXLE FOR TACK WELDING
Using a nut tied to a piece of string for a plomb bob to establish an exact 0 degrees reference I used a degree wheel normally used for degreeing camshafts (positioned on the same centre as the plomb bob string was hung from) I established the base or natural position of the front axle at 3 degrees caster Positive (top of king pin to the rear) More adjustment will come from the top links and adjustable heim joints but this establishes a natural or "at rest" base caster setting. How accurate? Well the plomb bob is exactly zero degress ALWAYS. ***uming the degree wheel is accurate (which is a reasonable ***umption) and the floor is level (already checked) it is as accurate as any alignment machine can be despite its simplistic nature and appearance. Because the garage is dark and there is not enough room from the side for a decent photo I have drawn it out instead. When printed full size it will be readable. It has explanations too. This is why I make the and use the extra long hardwood kingpins when making my own front ends. YES Virginia, I put real ones in when I am done!
Don

 

Awesome!
I know for a Jeep YJ shell..no axles or motor, but has all sheetmetal. I was thinkin of buying it and doing something like this with it. Just so I can piss off the 4x4's.

 

DAMN!!!! I admire your enthusiasm! Cool project!

 

This isnt always the pretty stage but I make up all the pieces I can from wood first to get a good idea of the fit. The bottom of the roll cage is tacked in and I sat in it while my wife measured the height of my helmut. I made a subs***ute me and duct tapped it to the roll bar. Then after extensive measuring I made a wooded representative of the roll bar main hoop. The secondary hoop is similar but 10 inches longer so I dont need a model of it. This will do as a pattern for both. I was given a set of Super trick front wheels for the 5 inch Ford front spindles. I could hardly believe it. Good friends I have for sure. Despite how this may look to those who have yet to undertake such a project this is proceeding at what seems a breakneck speed to me. It is a real enjoyable project for me and I now antcipate the ch***is and body being completed this year. I am currently waiting for the rest of the tubing which is really not very much at this point.
Don

 

discovered on the weekend I ned to redrill the bolt patternon the front spindles to match the free wheels I received. I thought about it till today and came up with a plan. The trick is to establish the first new hole perfectly. After that it a matter of using the wheel to lay out the rest.
Don

 

wow, this is cool I didnt expect to see 1/4 eliptical springs in the front. I really dig jeeps though, owned 2 cj5s, and 2 cj7s. I still have one of my cj7s, but its different, its on 38s and Ive been using to run the snow piles in my yard down. Good luck on your build.

Brad

 

Thanks, I have the upper links made and am working on the frame brackets for them. Since putting a single 1/4 eliphtic on my Sr Dragster and finding out how well it worked I have fallen in love with them. Simple, reliable and easy to build. Have contracted a sheet metal shop owner who is an old freind to build the body shell from Aluminum. I would like to have the body and ch***is done before race season and then will set it aside till next winter. Then it will be HEMI Time!

 

Over the weekend I redrilled the front spindles to take 4 3/4 inch bolt circle. I got some longer studs to keep the tech guys happy. A fellow racer gave me an old set of Supertrick front wheels. (5 inch width) and a set of tires for rolling around. I put it all together and mounted the wheels on the front axle. Even without a steering link in place the wheels turned by themselves to the straight ahead position when the car was lowered off the jack. This tells me the basic alignment is good because it wants to go straight ahead all by itself with no steering linkage. This is for me the acid test.
I still have to finish the upper links but the car is self supporting now. There is something cool about seeing it sit there on four tires. It looks right if you know what I mean. I will get a good pic when I get a bit more done. Ride height looks good. It slightly high now , about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch but I have no rad , no waterpump an empty block and no Moon tank yet so I am figuring it is going to be pretty close. I have enough tire options to put it bang on when I get to that stage. I can go up all I want or down 2 inches if required. This car seems to almost be building itself. It is fun to say the least.
Don

 

Here are some pics. I made the inside brackets for the upper links today and tacked them on. It may not look like much to some but I am cranked. It now rolls around the shop freely and it is beginning to look like I dreamed. I made a slight mod to the rad shell today too so it would sit properly. The front links are sitting on the frame rails right now awaiting the rod ends (1/2 inch. ) I made a temp steering linkage from harwood to facilitate moving it and besides I know from experience that it is hard to get it right the first time so I will do the wood thing till it is right on and then copy the length exactly in steel.

 

I made the front upper link brackets today. I then made a hardwood link of the same as average upper link length (Midway) that the heim joint ends and link would be. I bolted it all together on each side then tacked the upper link brackets in place.I did the same on the other side. That puts the brackets right where they need to be and makes both the same. I use a lot of wood in building and making jigs and designing. The stuff is cheap and if I mess up it goes in the wood stove and another is made. It saves a lot of money in the long run and sometimes helps me avoid problems when it is easy to change things in wood. In steel it is much harder. Ted Foster, an Aero Engineer taught me this. I am in his debt because it has saved me thousands. I am now at the point where I can dis***mble the front axle , weld up everything solid, make it pretty, install the new king pin kit and paint the whole ***embly.

 

I worked on the body design today. Put in a angle piece at the bottom front which matches the grill more or less and gives a place for the headers to sit. I am beginning to like this car. I wish i knew how to build a gl*** body from my wood deal. My sheet metal man says it is no problem in aluminum but I wish i could do it gl*** if i was truthfull. I dont know how this looks to someone else but I am really beginning to like it.
Don

 

I worked on the body design all morning. I am as I said just fabbing it in wood and such and then the sheet metal guy will build in in aluminum. I wish I knew how to do fibergl***. I am tempted to smooth it out real good when it is done and gl*** the whole thing then sand it smooth and have a mold made. Maybe not. I dont know what to think.

 

Why don't you find a clapped out postal jeep in a wrecking yard and cut and weld till you get the look you want. That's what I would do to get the body character right. Just a suggestion. You should try and use a cutdown tailgate as well

 

You are right of course but all the ones I found were so rotten they were not usable. A used Postal jeep running goes here for $500 to $900 and even they were real tough. It was my original plan though. Sister in law is a postal delivery person and had three in her back yard before marrying my brother but I could put my hand through them almost anywhere. I could not believe how rotten they were. Besides I am having too much fun. I will have the back section fabbed weds or thursday including tail gate. Sheetmetal guy needs a motor and I need a body. I see an oppourtunity here for a deal. I am becoming Ok with the aluminum idea the more i think about it. He will do a good job I know since he is most talented. The gl*** thing was on my mind but when I think hard about it I dont know why really. Thanks for the input. Good advice if I could have found a decent donar. I tried to buy one last thursday at a local restaurant. Guy said he would sell but I had to take over the postal route too.
Don

 

Yesterday I finished the rough wooden body. I looks like I wanted and now we will steal the measurements and fab it in 050 aluminum. All edges will have a right angle lip as well which wil give it more strength and improve the appearance. I am pleased with the design. It looks basically like I had hoped it would.
Don
I keep looking at the photo of the rear thinking "It needs something." Now I know! A bumber!
I will make one Monday

 

So I scabbed up a quick bumper out of Styrofoam just to see. It is a bit wide (tall) but the basic idea is right. I will work on it till I am happy.
Don

 

Front end links made and trial fit with spacers. I am very pleased with the design. Clean, strong ,stable and safe. It is also light (as in pounds.) And no son, it does not need or use a panhard bar.

 

Very cool and imaginative. Thanks for keeping us updated.

 

My metal man came and measured today. He took my mock up body with him.
Don

 

The last few days while the body is being made I worked on the last two uprights and the diagonal bracing as per required by the rule books. I used 1 inch .125" wall which is over spec but I have lots of it for suspension parts and so I chose to use it. I also bought the tubing for the roll bar hoops. I bought .134" wall just to be sure i am well within specs. I have a friend with a proper roll bar bender and he will bend it for me when he returns from holidays.

 

I started the beginning of the stack injection today. I need one more throttle body and then will begin to make the manifold with the injector bungs.
Don