Hi I'm rebuilding my dodge early hemi for my roadster and I have a question about the oiling system. Under the main crankshaft cap, in the oil p***age, there is the by-p*** ball. For a stock configuration, can I keep the original system, or MUST I use the after market plug for a full flow filtered? this plug: http://www.hothemiheads.com/dodge/oiling_system/oil_byp***_plug.html If possible, I want to use the original oil filter. I'have the short model, the paper element in the short metal bowl (fix with the long central screw) Where can I easily find this oil filter element (via the web, I'm French!) and maybe have you a standard manufacturer reference???? And the last question, can I use the py p*** plug WITH an original oil filter (without pressure byp***, unlike the modern filter)
and can I found a rebuild water pump or a rebuild kit for the stock one??? Or I must use an adaptater and a chevy pump? Thanks
If you keep the OEM filter you need the check ball, it's actually an anti-drian back device where the OEM filter doesn't have one & would drain dry w/o it. You should be able to find the OEM filters on line, a guy in Australian found some online here in the States real cheap a few yrs ago.
"73RR" here on the Board is Quality Engineered Components & probably can rebuild yours or maybe have one in stock if you don't mind the shipping expence. The Chevy W/P is an option.
There are two variations of the oem ball-check and by-p*** ***embly. You don't indicate which Dodge you have and parts vary with year. Do you have all of these parts? or just the bottom half? If you have all of the parts then you can replace the ***embly with a plug, either like this or follow the factory and use a Dorman cup plug (similar to, but smaller than the plug in the end of your rocker arm shaft). If you use a machined plug as in pic 2 then be sure to place the open side toward the oil filter. Keep in mind, that by not using the check ball ***embly your stock filter will drain between starts. Also, if you use the replacement plug, you will not have any high pressure by-p*** function with a stock filter. This should not be an issue if you have a clean engine and change the filter often, however, I would not do it. If you want to use the machined plug as above I have them available for $10 and, just a guess, $10 postage to France. Use the WIX online catalogue for the filter. I have water pumps in stock, see my web page. .
If you go with an aftermarket waterpump, you will have to design a crossover with a thermostat housing. I have some N.O.S. oil filter cartridges. If you have dimensions, I'll see what I have.
OK, having some issues with the 'new and improved' photobucket...why can't the geeks leave well enough alone The check ball does not rise completely to the top and does not seal the hole. The two legs stop the ball. This is a ****py pic...sorry...but you can kinda see the annular space at the ball. .
thanks for this firsts informations! My bloc is a 1954 270ci. I think it has been modified in the past, I don't have this by p*** in the bloc! look this picture: the hole is obturate by a plain steel plug just after the first oil c**** to the filter. the plug is 14.5mm or 1.75 inch diameter, and when I want to mesure his thickness with a jauge by the bottom and top of the bloc, I find a 1.8 inch thickness. this plug is stuck in the bloc... and a second strange point, my oil filter mount have a small c**** between the in and out! like a By-p***! I don't think It's ok, no??? On an another bloc (a 241ci), I have this configuration: We can see a parts of the by p*** and in the hole, the ball (rusty!) move freely... the total thickness is about a little more than 1.5 inch.... What is the best solution for me? I use the 270ci bloc, it's ever machined!
In that case there's an amount of unfiltered oil going through the engine all the time. On the 1st comment, I wish people would leave well enough alone, if it ain't broke, fix it till it is!
Not all blocks used this multi-piece by-p***/anti-drain back thingy... The 270 block appears to not be drilled through so the slot in the oil filter mount is correct for that block. The 241 has the rusty parts in place. If you want to remove them, drop a piece of 4mm drill rod down through the hole where the oil pressure sending unit mounts and tap gently. Unless it is worse than it looks then it should come out. This sketch shows the alignment of the two p***ages...they do not share the same centerline. I will not claim credit for the cup plug, MotherMopar used it in some engines and even ***igned a part number...3462871 .
The only time unfiltered oil will go through the engine with the stock byp*** is if the filter is plugged enough to overcome the pressure relief spring holding the byp*** disk in place. The ball has nothing to do with byp***, but is an anti-drain back check ball. See Post #5 by TRWaters for a good photo of the byp*** (top) portion of the valve. In Schoum's phone of the filter mount, there will definitely be oil byp***ing the filter through that slot between the ports. I expect that it cam off the engine that just has the plug in it, and doesn't have the drainback/byp*** dohickey thingamabob.
thanks you very much for those complete informations Guys! So , my bloc is totaly OK, no? I havn't the by-pas ball, but instead of this, I have the slot in the oil filter mount. So, I can use the original oil filter without any lubrification problem? 73RR, MP for the water pump
As was said, with the slot there's going to be an amount of unfiltered oil going through the engine. What's the objection to using a spin on adaptor?
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