A few questions for the early hemi/ stick racers... RAM or McLeod? (Want a slipper type clutch) Steel or aluminum flywheel?(blown 331 with mini stroke job) I have a Lakewood brand ****tershield for a sbm. I would like to use this. Can this be used complete with block saver plate in combination with the trans adapters that are available for the hemi? Are adapter kits unique to themselves as far as flywheel depth spacing? The adapter kits seem to come with flywheels, as do the clutches. So if for example, if I bought a RAM clutch ***embly, is the flywheel that comes with the clutch going to fit while using the adapter, or is the adapter flywheel needed to get the spacing to be correct???? Thanks!
The adapters work with the bellhousing,,,,the blow proof should work fine . The adapter also has a spacer that goes behind the flywheel to move it to the correct orientation to the transmission . Also,,,this flywheel spacer / adapter is used because the old flywheels registered on the crank on the crankshaft flange o.d. . The new flywheels register off the ring on the crank I.d.,,,,(,the flywheel register ) ,,,like modern flywheels . At least that is on the kits for the street,,,,,there might be specific thickness flywheels for racing these old drag cars? As to the material,,,,It depends on the weight of your car really,,I guess . I always liked a steel flywheel,,,,a more controlled launch . Just purchase a quality adapter kit,,,you should be good . I hoped this helped a little . Tommy
To add some more info. The crank holes are the perfect size to tap getting rid of the nut and bolt stock set up. The fly wheels all bolt to the crank the same. The mccloud dual disc street twin has three extra holes drilled in them for the floater disc tabs. I preferred the mccloud hydraulic throw out bearing. Its adjustable for the correct gap. Visit their web site for instructions on how to measure. They offer different pieces to move the bearing forward. For good pedal feel and full clutch release I went from a 5/8 bore cylinder to a 3/4 bore. Big difference with that. Guys argue about steel vs aluminum fly wheels. My personal experience is this. I started out with a steel mcloud fly wheel. I tried the aluminum mcloud flywheel then went back to steel. The aluminum made the engine rev up fast blipping the throttle. Street driving ****ed as the engine needed alot of rpm to leave from a start. On the track it was a few tenths slower. The way it was explained to me is the heavier wheel doesn't pull the engine down between shifts. Removing weight from the flywheel reduces inertia. They work in sprint cars because they need to slow down going into a turn. They don't work as well on the street or track unless you are making huge power. I ran a blown 392 on gas both street and track. I removed the stock flywheel from 327 powered chevelle replacing it with a steel fly wheel. The steel was a few pounds heavier. The improvement was very noticeable. Mopar offered several fly wheel in different weights for many years. The engineers must have known something.
Well, I should mention the clutch will be in front of an automatic.... This is a clutchflite application. The rpm drop on shift was the part that has me wondering about steel vs aluminum. I find myself leaning towards steel.
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