Hot Rods Here we go again...The July BANGER MEET!!!

I'm confused here... Turbochargers, EFI, what happened to the rules for V4 and V4F? Is it because a lakester or streamliner is not a "vintage body?" If the rules have changed- the dollar grabbing gorilla is out of its' cage... they'll be a lot of non-vintage type bangers with all kinds of wiz-bang computer zingos on them- it'll be like the NHRA -

Keven

 

The rules seem to be "Evolving" I believe it is now "Any ignition" in all classes. The original main count never seemed to important to some people. As I said Mike told me the turbocharger rule was just for Vintage Body classes. In the XF and XO classes you can run turbos and EFI in a liner, so I guess it's the same for V4F. That was not my understanding at first, but I have a roadster and am not really affected by what Lakesters and 'liners do

 

Anyone see the new manifolds that they are looking to make over at Stalded Dog Speed Parts? Anyone ever see or use anything like it? Looks like it could be interesting, and at least look a little different than the standard "headers" around.

 

Sorry to hear that. Mine has been hit twice now. Once on the rear fender and a dent up near the back window so it must have been a big van or truck that did it. It's not the damage because it's insignficant, it's the principle.

 

They "LOOK" cool (I like 'em!) but it would seem that you would want to pair 1 & 4 with 2 & 3 for more efficient expulsion of exhaust. I don't think they will be the best set on a dyno.

 

I used to buy it at a pharmacy or drug store came in pint bottles works good for aluminum heads that leak when I worked at the foundry we had some stuff we put aluminum parts in to seal the chambers dont remember the name but can find out if needed it was an air dry dip n let set for couple hours and it worked good for small leaks in water jackets probably did couple thousand parts with it

 

Marco at Juarez Traditional Fabrications made the tube headers using a steel flange plate, tube and a steel tapered table leg from a local hardware store ! neat eh !
We based the design on some early hot rod / salt flat pic's from the early 40's

Steve

 

I have to agree with Elrod- pairing 1&2 and 3&4 just doesn't make sense. I see now that Yapp is thinking about reproing the Robert Roof "Cyclone" F head. I had one of these back when, and it was a lousy performer- A Winfield flathead would outrun it six ways come Tuesday. Bunch of square corners in the intake passages, and the rocker boxes have the valve guides cast in place, while the valve seats are part of the head casting- thus guaranteeing that the two never stay in line. Told Charlie all this sometime back- he even printed the letter- but now he has the hots again. Some people refuse to learn.

Herb

 

I saw the same thing, I also read your letter in a back issue of S.O.S.S. I was wondering the same thing! Could he make enough improvments to make it work better? Which OHV head was the best in your opinion?

 

I remember way back when a local guy split his "A" exhaust manifold which paired 1 2 and 3 4 and it sounded like a John Deere tractor. I think this new Yapp header design was made by the same guy that designed the intake manifold.

 

Well, comparing F heads for street use, I would say that the Rileys are the best for the reason that they have two smaller intake valves per cylinder. This keeps the mixture velocity up at low RPM, and still gives enough valve area for higher engine speeds. The Roof has one large valve which probably would flow more than the miserable port design will let it, giving the worst of both worlds. I'm not sure that the Roof could be redesigned without making it totally different, and then what would you have? The valve seat/valve guide problem can be fixed by making the rockerboxes integral with the head, but this would cause machining problems for the rocker pivots, at the very least, and probably foundry troubles as well
.
Given the number of B blocks that end up cracked in the deck area around the exhaust valves, I'm not a great fan of any F head design for the Ford block.

Just my opinion. I think that if you want to get away from flatheads, go for a full overhead- I run a original Miller-Schofield.

Herb

 

Well here is an update

New B in place - still dealing with the carb setup - running a bit rich

New front end.

New wood on the sides of the bed.

 

Neat fuel lines but you need more fins some where. Looks like a fun car. I bet it is a thrill to drive now. I hope you have good brakes!

 

Hi guys,

I hope someone in England can help me. I just broke the banger in my coupe. I just had put an FS Ignition, Burns intake with a single 97 and a Scheider Hi-Comp head on it and it was ready for the Hot Rod Supernationals in Old Warden. But I have been running this stock engine to hard in the last two years and I think the Hi-Comp head was to much because It started knocking really hard. After pulling the pan I found lots of broken pieces of babbit!!!! So I wont go the run in the coupe

Now here is my question, in Belgium and Holland there is only one engine shop who can redo babbit bearings and I didn't hear to much good about that shop. Is there in the UK a shop who does this kind of engine work and is it a reliable shop?

Hope someone can help me!!!!

Thanks,

Eddy

 

What jet sizes are you using?

 

Hi Eddy,

Its been a while!

The two obvious ones for an engine rebuild are Nervous Bob or Belcher Engineering.
I would think they are both using the same person for babbit?

Forget the Supernats and come over for the Hot Rod Drags in september instead. Much better show and you join in with the banger meltdown if your coupe is back on the road as well!

 

I have a question. In your experience do the "B" blocks still tend to crack after hard exhaust seats are installed?

 

Didn't the B block come with Hard seats from the factory?

 

Or come over in a daily to the Supernats and drop your engine off at Nervous Bob's on the way as you'll be driving almost past his door!

Bob has his white metalling done at Belchers, but he's "open" at the weekend...

 

Pretty sure there is a company in Coventry doing babbitt. Saw them at the NEC Classic Car show last year or so, can't find their details though. Leave it with me.

My A 'diamond' block had seats under the exhaust valves from factory.

 

Neil Tuckett uses someone to do all his babbit work but he's very secret squirrel about it so I guess he's very cheap...

 

I can not remember - the set came off my running model A block - all I have done is swapped out the block and have a lightened flywheel.

I have to spend some time on the road and tweak it.

But I am still running in which does not help.

 

Here we go....
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/restoration/white_metalling.htm

Formalls looks good...

"Sir Malcolm Campbells 350hp Sunbeam Land Speed Record car (Bluebird) Rebuilt in 2007/8 with Formhalls - Hoyt White Metal Bearings"

Here are the people in Coventry...
http://www.coventryboringandmetalling.co.uk/

 

Thanks,

I think that's a good idea but maybe I will do as moneybiker suggests, go with the daily driver and take my engine to Nervous Bob!!! How can I contact them?
I still go to the supernationals with my daily, I booked the ferry already and it's a weekend full of cars and friends, so that will be fun anyway!!!

Eddy

 

hey you guys are making me want to pull the head on my diamond B motor to see if it has hard seats keep learning more from these posts than 3 years in Hi school
Ken

 

If my memory serves me correctly the replacement blocks, such as the diamond blocks came, after a certain date, with hard seats as did some of the later replacement model "A" blocks. The original blocks of which I have owned 4 didn't have the hard seats. Diamond blocks were, as far as I know, replacement blocks. Quite a few were used for industrial or agriculture, The hard seats probably were used as a way to strengthen the area around the exhaust seats. After all, when the hard seats were started there was lead in the gas and regular was around 70+ octane so valve seat problems didn't occur as a result of the fuel. If I remember correctly the crack usually starts in the seat. I have had blocks where the crack was in that are but couldn't be seen until they were magnetically checked.

 

My understanding of the valve seat issue is your standard/normal blocks had no seats, the valve sat directly on the block.
The Diamonds had seats but they weren't hardened seats, just normal valve seats.

 

Nervous Bob

Workshop? 01359230027 or Mobile 07933351586

Belcher engineering

01379890913
Gary@Belcherenginering.com

 

Thanks for the info,

I'll contact them.

Eddy

 

Eddy Try

http://whitemetalbearings.co.uk/

http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/restoration/white_metalling.htm

http://www.johnsonsengineers.com/index.asp

I've not had a need for them yet - but they all seem to be reputable - good luck, or as the others in the Crew say try Nervous Bob, pm me and I'll give you his phone No. if you don't have it