No, the tech guy told you correctly. You can base over DP as a sealer( basically just over-reduced DP) without a surfacer in between. That seals all your surfacer and filler from the topcoat(base) solvents.
This is the route I am taking. Glad to see I'm not the only one. There are soooo many choices and paths to take when painting a car, even the dealers can't send you down a straight path. Its a wonder any of us hobbiest get something that last more than 5 years. I'm hoping to get a good 10yrs out of my paint job... I've got my fingers crossed.
Yes, the base on the truck in my avatar photo is DP40LF. I then used the Omni which builds good and it dries hard. My top coat is the K93 tinted primer surfacer. I can also say if you don't wait the minimum dry time on the DPLF, the Omni will shrink and crack............ No big deal, just sand and prime again. It happened on my rear fender, just one.......... As far as etching primers, if you take a DA and sand your bare metal with 120 or 220 grit, leaving a sand swirl pattern, you have effectively etched your metal and the DPLF sticks very well. In fact, most primers adhere very well. My opinion is that etching primer is only needed on slick, smooth metal.
Hello everyone, just wanted to put in my .02. I use all glasurit but have used ppg and the like. Stick with one brand and use them as the manufacturer recommends. I would suggest using a fill primer that is direct to metal (fibergl***, galvenized, plastic, basically all) that way you only need one primer in your shop. You dont need 17 products to get a panel to paint. When I have a part that is blasted I put a good coat or two of this down. I then do all of my body work over the top of the primer putting more on whenever I have any left in the gun. When my body work is basically finished I like to use slicksand. If you are doing a car really nice this stuff works great, it builds like a mofo and costs less than $100 dollars per gallon. My high build primer is about $300 a gallon so why prime and sand, prime and sand when the spray fill does the job much better and costs less. If I am not happy with the first round of spray fill, I sprayfill it for the second time (blocking off all the filler that is not needed). I use a sata KLC P(polyester) with a 2.5 spray nozzle. If its not straight by now your body work ****s. When I am really happy with it I then put 2 really good coats of the same high build primer on the car. It is then ready to wetsand and topcoat. Pros of sprayfill. Does the filling job much better than primer. It gives you a nice uniform base to start sanding and it sands like ****er. I sometimes find when I am getting a panel very close when I skim an area here and there I start going in circles. When you get frustrated or this close is the perfect time to spray fill. It goes on like ceiling texture but is giving you some real fill. Keep in mind this is for a car that has to be super straight. If it was just a driver I would body fill, spray fill, prime and paint. This would also look better than 90% of the cars at most car shows
What ever you use, if the DP has been sprayed longer than seven days, you will need to scuff it to get proper adhesion.
Should I just use the slick sand over my body work, or use another primer like featherfill, then slick sand for last?
Well I got one side skimmed and had to put my first coat of slick sand on, just to see how it was looking. Lookin pretty good but still have to straightin up some body lines. Is it okay to spray slicksand over 36 grit that was scuffed with 80, then sand with 80,180 then so on? What is a good glazing putty for pin holes and little spots left of body work? I have used nothing but Rage Gold and evercoat products for execpt the PPG expoxy over the bare metal. Anybody ever had any bleed through with slicksand?
I've had great luck with PPG's K38. I haven't used K36 - but it is tintable. It lays down heavy (lots of fill) and sands easily. I usually finish it by wet sanding, mainly because it will keep the paper from clogging and is less dusty. Plus, while wet sanding it, running water over it shows any issues you may have. Abone - I have liked Evercoat's polyester filler for small pinholes or shallow depressions, etc. It sands easy and I've never had a bleed through problem with it.
Prep your body work before ya start priming,sand out the scratches (even the ones in metal.Use 1416 evercoat glaze to fill pits and deep scratches in metal smooth up with atleast 180 sand paper first, sand and feather back scratches in old paint dont cover up. Keep in mind the more materials you pile up the more chance of shrinking back later showing what you covered up.Thicker paint on a car doesnt always hold up as good as no more than nessary.Prep it right first.I have learnd this from 36 years experiance dealing with this.
X2 on the K36 and K38, works well over DP, good fill, easy to sand, wish I could get a slick finish with the DP though, I don't know what it takes to make that stuff lay down and you can't sand it. Dave
We use it everyday in the fibergl*** repair process . . Slicksand is a great high build,makes my work look great . All the things we repair are used at sea with the Navy so the elements are extreme. We have been using Slicksand since it first came out and had zero inter-coat failures .
i was told that SlickSand gets super hard to sand if it's been sitting on the panel for over a week. Do you find that's true?
I luv the stuff, it high build for sure. Just make sure it sites over night . I used a little bit more paper , but was worth it.
The only question I have at what stage can the polyester putty be applied before or after the epoxy primer or does it matter?
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