HIDDEN Batteries in roadsters & Coupes?!?!?!?!?

For the jumper/outside access issue, you can buy neat hookups consisting of a couple of cables to bolt into the main cable terminals ending in a neat push-together plug. Just connect the matching plug to a set of jumpers and you have a neat, reliable hookup--at least for cars big enough to carry jumpers.

 

I guess I carry this stuff too far. All the old hot rods that we are trying to duplicate had the same battery problems as we do. To me the battery is just as much a part of the car as a 97 carb.



At one time I planed on buying one of those reproduction tar top batteries with the screw on caps for the late 50's restored cars. I think they look cool. I ended up being too cheap and I just painting a late model (post style) battery flat black. Sorry I don't want a side post battery in my hot rod. Too much I know but it's what I want.

My first Deuce was a sedan built in the 50's. It still had the old screw vent cap battery in it's battery box under the floor boards. The battery really was cool looking because it was so different from what we see today. It was obvious that the box was a factory unit. Maybe that's why it appeals to me. I recycled the battery box into the sport coupe. I found another one in a flea market (10 bucks) and it was identified as a shoe box Ford. It unbolts and has some cool factory louvers in it. If you want a period battery box find a shoe box Ford box.

Anyway when faced with a problem, I try to ask myself what did they do back then.

Interstate batterys are great but please...paint those ugly green sons-a-*****es flat black!

Next time you are at a flea market with the repro battery people, take a look at the old ones. There are some really cool looking batteries with cool old graphics and those cool yellow screw on vent caps. You may not want to hide it...then again maybe you will.

 

Think the ones you are refering to are; Electric Fork Lift battery connectors. (hooks the batteries to the charger)

I rigged a set at the rear of our Bonneville racer to keep the battery up when in the stageing lines or the pits. (the car has a battery, but NO charging device)
One side of the plug is connected to jumper cables that are hooked to the push truck battery. The other side of the plug is mounted in the car and wired to the battery.

 

That's the basic design--similar devices now come from RV places, aircraft sources, and some of the wiring companies.
Another battery consideraion: If you build a tiny hiding place for an odd and esoteric battery, you're screwed when the thing fails in Resume Speed, West Virginia on Sunday night. You're going to have to waste a bunch of time and money rigging extension cables to reach the Toyota battery you had to buy and mount in your lap for the trip home. Unless of course you have an early Ford and know how to work the handcrank...

 

I've got a 39 Plymouth business coupe, space is not much of a problem untill you get under the hood. Originally the battery sat in a box under the floor, accessable through the driver seat bottom. Being the cheapskate I am, the $40 Farm & Fleet battery is the battery of choice. I'm going to put it in the original location, I think. Since the battery, the starter and the starter relay will be located down low and under things, I think I would feel a bit better having a remote post to connect jumper cables to, even if I never need to.

The ground cable is not of concern. How, or what do I use for a remote positive battery terminal? And how would I mount it to the car? Could use a few suggestions.
Gene

 

I used a Dynabatt "STYLE" battery in my "T" modified. I mounted it on the cowl hoop next to the kick panel. The battery I used is from a portable starting unit....just like a Dynabatt (same exact size) but only 1/2 the cost. In the picture, the battery is sort of hard to see very clear, but it's under the dash on the far right side. Out of the way, but not out of sight.