high rev: is there a way?

Interesting thread.

I run a stock 1969 4 bolt 350 block w/proper machine work and prep.
Aftermarket Steel Crank is minutely stroked to an even 3.50.
10.5 40 over forged pistons custom fly cut for valve clearance.
"Pink" rods reworked and smoothed (probably the biggest weak link...)
Dart cylinder heads with solid lifter 560 lift General Kinetics cam.
1.5 roller rockers, guide plates, screw in studs
Good quality bearings and oil pump.
Crossram with dual 500CFM carbs
Mallory Unilite, good plug wires, etc.
Run 18-20 degrees initial timing and 38-40 full in.
Muncie Rockcrusher 4 speed.
4.88 Posi Rear Axle
3400 pound car.

Routinely hit 7,500 rpm rev limiter (every time the car was out) when the engine was first built 6 years ago. The engine sounded beautiful, but was honestly starting to drop off for peak power just past 7K.

Got a little chicken and changed to a 7,000 chip 2 years ago. This was perfect.

Got more chicken and changed to a 6,500 chip last fall... Shifting too early for the power that is being made. Shift points come up way too fast. Will likely go back to the 7000 chip.

This will be the 7th year the engine has been flogged. Hope I haven't just jinxed myself!!!!

Cheers.

 

I don't know much about chips but I used to build 301 engines that would rev awful high. The only limiting factor was the ignition which at the time (70's) was still points.

A ways from 350CID tho........I like that 327 crank in a 400.,

 

It's easy, go to a circle track engine builder and order one up. It will not be cheap, but if your main goal is a 350 that revs high, not the latest trick of the week, you can probably get one done with cast-off parts. As said, most parts will not be GM, but aftermarket. This includes the rotating ***embly and all the valvetrain.
Try to find aftermarket block and heads too.

 

well just put it nuteral and mash the gas pedal.if the valve springs start to float then put some bigger ones in it.why do you want to rev it to 7000rpm?if you want to be like gene swarts put a 100lb flywheel on it,floor it,wait for about 5seconds than dump the clutch!!!his car is awsome dont get me wrong but its funny to hear when he revs it up.i take my amc 360 with cast pistons to 7400rpm all the time and dont have a problem but im just waiting for the pistons to fly off the forged rods.

 

You'd need a combo that made power up to and around 7000, and the a supporting valve train.

You'll for sure need to look at your camshaft, lifters, rockers and valvesprings.

 

Yep, if the power falls off there is no point. You need to build one to make power through 7k or it's not worth it. Just spinning it to there doesn't do it.

Some bikes do, some don't...

 

Which late model Jap 4 cylinder bikes have a roller bottom end? The old 750 Honda didn't,but the Kawasaki 900 did I believe.

 

Oh my bad I was thinking of a couple 2 stroke race bikes I worked on... Hmmm... they all had them, but then lubrication is a totally different thing with them. I know the Triumph 675 doesn't

 

there is a rumor going around my school that it is possible. i wanted to put you guys on it. i don't have one yet, i am looking for ideas for it. i will try it.

 

it is because i like my cars loud. and i am not into lying.

 

thanks for the bit. i do how ever want to get one of the pieces for a bad*** keychain. but not that 350, i don't like Hondas.

 

Gene also speaks of Rev Kits below the intake. Super light valve train, stud girdles, or shaft mounted rockers, ***anium retainers, the cam.etc.

 

So run straight pipes---still way cheaper.

 

Spacer bearings and a 283 crank.....

 

damn... mind if i try that? sounds like a beast.

 

i would like to build it myself. i am not going to have a credit card coupe.

 

yes i could do that, but noise tickets in kennwick are a ***** to pay. besides, i just wanted one to have one and to prove that blind macanics can do something after all. and it is fun anyway.

 

Obviously a good bottom end, heads that flow, and quality valvetrain components(shaft rockers, rev kit, etc...) and a cam with LOTS of overlap. Overlap is what helps it breathe at high RPM's. There is much more to it, I'm just kind of scratching the surface.
Doesn't matter what cubes you decide to go with, given you understand the relationship between bore and stroke, ideal rod/stroke ratio's etc.... I ***embled several 358CID's for a touring circle track team I worked with. 9.5:1 compression, 390 cfm carb(as per rules), and it regularly spun around 8500rpms. Granted we weren't making as much HP as the guys who plunked down anywhere from 40-70 grand for a complete, dyno tested ***embly with years of research and development, but the ones I screwed together held up pretty good for the money we had in it. Do some reading. David Vizard books are very informative. Good starting point.

 

i would like to build it myself. i am not going to have a credit card coupe.
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD cl***=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by RodStRace
It's easy, go to a circle track engine builder and order one up. It will not be cheap, but if your main goal is a 350 that revs high, not the latest trick of the week, you can probably get one done with cast-off parts. As said, most parts will not be GM, but aftermarket. This includes the rotating ***embly and all the valvetrain.
Try to find aftermarket block and heads too.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
If you want to build it yourself and have it live, you better start learning, because those guys I mentioned have YEARS of 40+ hours a week experience and knowledge. There is a great brain trust here, but the original question and your replies smell like someone who has no idea how forces change with RPM (X4) or what piston speed is and how it relates to max. RPM, or even the current tech practiced at that local circle track. We may be able to provide an exact parts list, but motors like this don't just bolt together.

 

A square or oversquare bore to stroke ratio, lightweight rotating ***embly, and a bad*** topend i.e. valve springs. In short $$$.