For the record, those Gennie light bars can fit great or look like *** like Brians. The fit with them has been iffy for quite some time on both steel AND gl*** fenders. Most guys catch it during mockup and correct it then.
Could you loosen the fenders and braces from the frame...tighten the headlight bar, and then shim the fender braces at the frame to cut down on the applied stress?
There wasnt really any mock up as this was something brian added after the truck was finished.. I think really he was looking for a simple low cost way to cover up the **** up in the bar.. **** happens and im sure he will find a way to fix it. I like the way he said you could only see it low down in front of the car.. Ha Ha you dont know how many things i have corrected and nobody but me ever saw em.. I like perfection and I think brian does too.. Dave
Brian, It seems that most everyone wants to do it their way! Fixing it by cutting, welding, grinding and polishing is a solution, but that is not what you asked. There are always many ways to get from point A to point B. Here's a possible remedy using your method. I have used a product known as "pig putty". It is a semi solid two part epoxy that comes in a tube. It has both parts together one inside the other in a stick that looks like a big tootsie roll. You just kneed the stuff together until it is fully mixed and the use it like modeling clay to mold and conform to whatever shape you need. The stuff is tuff and hard, I think it might get you out a bind and work for what you want. You can get it at most hardware stores or parts houses. I would try a little of it on wax paper, foil or a waxed surface before trying it on you headlight bar. I'd make sure you can get it to release. At the store where I see it locally, they have a golf ball stuck to a gl*** pop bottle. You can't get the stuff to let go!
Yes, i know we are dealing with a finished car. I just wanted to state that for anyone else reading this thread that may draw incorrect conclusions about the product.......after all, we all know the term "bolt in" usually means "I had to cut,welded,ground and modified to fit my unique situation"!
If you REALLY want to do the filler routine,try PC7. Rona/Lansing carries it. Stiff,when mixed,so it will stay in place. Takes a few days to set completely.
Check it out. you need a used tire. cut a couple of strips out of it from the bead to the tread. bout 2 inches wide. you will notice it has a pretty significant taper to it. presto! Rubber shims. they will fill the gap, and have enough stability to them to not squeeze out or allow for the bar to dance around too much.
I guess I would try to make exact pattern of the spacer you need with modeling clay. Once you have the pattern, use it to make a mold in plaster of paris and then get some liquid rubber of the right durometer and pour yourself a couple of spacers.
If you ever do a mold you can also cold cast a spacer in stainless also. it would buff up good I think. I spray metal and it comes out kind of nice. Not traditional though I used to get Powder here very fine like baby powder. the finer you use the more of a continues reflective film effect you will get. http://www.plateall.com/ Jdee This pic is some Aluminum I sprayed on my Headlight buckets. Rubbed out with Steel Wool.
IS THE BAR BOLTED TIGHT IN THE PHOTO? if its a narrow gap around the gasket add to the gasket gap area with black silicone remove excess ...use plastic wrap to cover exposed edges ..leave it harden then remove wrap.. this will leave a molded in place smooth surface rather than trying to trim with a knife to fit later do in stages if it is easier think of how the hardened goober looks when removing it from a used tube ... a perfect impression of the tip.. this trick can be used to repair any black material like door seals and old bumpers seeif another bar fits better ,anybodt got one that live close ... pull up on that sagging fender when he ain't lookin too
Kevin Lee ---I owe you an apology!!! I don't usually jump on people like I did you. I,m a bit sensitive about being jumped on myself every time I come on the HAMB, and I flew defensive when there was no call to. I'm Sorry. As far as the fix goes---I will do a fix that is within my capability. I don't have a tig, I don't weld stainless, and if I go to a local shop to have this done, it costs far more than I am willing to pay for something that can not be readily seen.---Brian
If the place that sold it to you won't make it right, probably the best bet would be to heat and bend it to get it to the right shape. If you do any clamping on the stainless in a vice or C-clamps, use some metal that's softer than the stainless (like copper or br***) to make pads so that you won't gouge any deep marks into the stainless. If you don't gouge it up, it's not too much work to get it shiny again. It'll turn all sorts of colors where you heat it up, but you can sand those out with very fine paper and re-polish it with some work. I think you'll probably be sorry if you fill the gap with something, because it will never look quite right, and the uneven pressure could crack up your fibergl***. For one thing, the nut and washer on the backside of the fender will be digging in to the backside of the fender unevenly.
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