HO-HO-HO December monthly BANGER meeting

Happy Holidays. Great pictures this month, Chris your engine looks awesome. Here is a picture of my banger project. 27' Touring body on a stock 30' chassis with 35' Ford wires.

 

absolutely love your motor . the coupe speaks for itself .... steve

 

I believe. I bought the 12V fields for 30 bucks or so from Snyders(I think) and had 'em swapped for another 30 bucks labor at an electrical shop. The 6v starter w/12 volts going to it sounded pretty violent before the switch.

Firerod, that looks great!!!

 

Firerod,

I love the T & A !!!!! Man that is a clean tub!!!!

 

Lovin' the tub, Firerod! I could see myself in one of those

I found running 12V through the stock starter broke the springs - had it happen twice - so both of mine are converted to barrel drive now. No problems in about three years.

 

I don't know if I have done this right but it seems to work, Pressurised bearings in a banger No1
If you need details,Post

 

Bearing pressure No 2

 

Can anyone tell me what bearing is used for the pilot bearing in an early multi plate clutch setup, there was none installed in my car.
Thanks
Brendan

 

having done the same thing on my T motor, I understand what you are trying to attain. But, I used compression fittings through out the system as copper has a tendancy to become brittle and break under normal circumstances, but this can be exacerbated when heated for brazing. But I could be wrong.

The difference is that I came in through the top of the main bearing webs. having that bend in the line combined with the line just "hanging" out there is going to cause failure down the road.

Maybe using HDPE or LDPE hose, brass fittings, and clamps might work better. certainly less prone to failure.

 

Are there intructions availble that shows how to do this properly? including the block / oil pump mods. I am very near doing this myself and don't want to destroy a rebuilt engine.

Tad

 

Bruce Lancaster has posted how to convert the banger starter motors over to 12V before...I'm not at home, or I'd repost the info (saved it on my home computer)

 

Never heard that one before!

Whats the thoery behind this then?

 

The first issues of the S O S S magazine go into plumbing and oil pump conversion. The Restorer #5 has detailed instructions in an article by Urb Stair on his method of plumbing. As to copper tubing it is prone to work hardening and cracking at the fittings on long unsupported runs or lengths. I had a friend that used to work at an airfield in the "30"'s and he received flying lessons by working Saturdays annealing the copper oil lines on the old radial engines in use at that time. We used to replace the fuel lines with copper on our "A"'s and they would eventually leak at the compression fitting at the filter. The fittings would crack at the ferrule and we would wrap string around the ferrule to get home.

 

I'm told that the extra torque produced by the 6v starter running on 12v trys to twist the rear crank flange off. Then if the engine kicks back, the increased power of the doubled voltage keeps the benix engaged further stressing the rear main bearing journal.

This is what has been explained to me. I find it plausable. So as I know the cost sourounding broken cranks, I run a 12v starter.

 

Here's my new toy:



Cool generator with air scoop:



Short water pump:



'33 B transmission with integral chatter rod mounts:



I think the carb is a Tillotson, everything else looks to be original for a '33 car. Still trying to figure everything out, but I have been told the front cover is unique, as it mounts the generator back in line with the shortened water pump. I guess the crank pulley is unique, too.

We fired it on the stand, only ran it a short time but it sounded great. I am not sure what I am going to do with it yet, I originally bought it as a spare for the B engine in the Manx.

IF ANYBODY IS RESTORING A '33 CAR WITH A "B" ENGINE OR KNOWS SOMEBODY WHO IS, PLEASE PM ME!

Will Kimble

 

Has it got a magnesium timing gear cover on the front?

 

"Has it got a magnesium timing gear cover on the front?"

I dunno - I guess I would check with a magnet? I didn't know they used any magnesium back then... I will check the next time I am at the shop.

According to Vince Falter's most excellent website, the serial # says it was built in August of 1933.

Will<!-- / message -->

 

After breaking another Bendix gear at the Antique Nationals this year I had starter field coils replace with 12 volt as the 6 volt starter was too violent with a 12.5 Lb. flywheel It just slammed into the flywheel. I do know of people with basically stock or warmed over engines that have no problems with 6 on 12, I think most of them are using stock flywheels or lightened stock flywheels.

 

I would like to know what mods need to be done to the oil pump to pressurise the bearings, I put a guage on the side of the block and it seemed to have oil pressure when I ran it.
If some one could post the article from soss it would help.
Thanks Brendan

 

Brendan1959-

There is one other consideration that many people don't realize when pressurizing blocks, and that is that it is much better practice, from the bearing lubrication standpoint if the oil is fed into the least loaded side of the bearing, in the case of mains, the top. You are better off replacing the stock Ford tubes to the mains with heaver wall steel tube. I have fed insert bearings through the bottom, but cut a oil channel in the block, so that the oil went around the outside of the bearing shell to the exit hole in the top of the upper insert.

Herb Kephart

 

thats a great idea herb.its amazing what you learn on this site.is it also an advantage to widen or taper the oil galleys on the stock babbit (for a high rpm banger)thanks dave

 

On my car 6 v. running on 12 v. the ring gear keeps comming loose and moving towards the block, causing grinding sound (ringgear hitting block) when clutch is pushed in. I even tacked it in place, and it came loose again. So it makes sense what you are saying about the "violent engagement", this is on a stock motor.

 

Stump...that may be more to do with your ring-gear than starter. I had a similar problem with mine, and when I did a little research the guys on Fordbarn reckoned that some dodgy ring-gear came into the market a little while ago. I've tacked mine back on too, and it seems to have held okay.

 

I drill and tap and install a 5/6" allen set screw in the joint between the ring gear and flywheel at 6 locations equally spaced around it. this is called a "Scotch key"
I just snug them up and use Loctite. You can tighten them too much and force the ring to move. I have also used "Spring Pins" which require less work. This is SOP when using an AL flywheel.

 

I'm building a stainless steel header for my 31 coupe.
Wait til you see the carbs I am using!

 

The pump modifications are to increase the volume of the pump. The stock "A" pump can pump 100 Lbs. pressure as is. PM me your email and I will scan and email an article to you. There are a series of articles in the volume # 1 # 1 and 2 of the S O S S . In fact there are several articles on this subject out there. In the Restorer #5 Urb Stair describes how he used a SBC pressure relief valve in his conversion.

 

Whats with the un-drilled Lion's head?

 

I believe it's the original Bendix starter drives that break. Standard fix is to go to a barrel drive which is originally a Caterpillar diesel part, I think. Model A supply houses (Brattons, Snyders, Mike's, et al) carry them now.
Fearless

 

Hi All,
I was thinking of lowering the Vicky,whats the low down on reverse eye springs ?
How do you spread them again to get em back on?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Happy Holidays to you all.
Nick.