HO-HO-HO December monthly BANGER meeting

Hey Enbloc,

I checked all of my timing and side covers - 3 sets from Bs - and none are magnesium.

Just did new oil pan gaskets and a better pan on the Manx, this pan is trimmed back nicely by the bellhousing and I can look in the inspection cover hole while the engine is running. Good news is I did a good job on the pan gaskets, bad news is I can now see that it is a rear main leak. So the car is going to rest for the winter while the engine goes back to the builder for some TLC.

A question - I fiddled around with the timing cover and side cover quite a bit to try to get them in alignment with the pan mounting surface of the block. I was able to make some improvements, but could probably have done a little better by sanding the bottom of the side cover a little. Anybody do this? There were no leaks in this area so maybe I am trying to overengineer a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

Will Kimble

 

My Frick finned aluminum cover was machined @ .050" short of the bottom of the block so I have to add another thicknes of gasket to that area to get it to seal.

If the cover doesn't stick up more then @ .020" then I wouldn't worry to much about it. The gasket will crush more in that area.
.

 

"If it ain't broke don't fix it"

 

Doing some research! You guys have some great 4 bangers!!

Question for the group. H&H offers a few options on engines. If you were going to have them build you an engine would you do the Riley 4 Port or the Cragar?

Performance
Reliability
Hi-Rev

Just spitballing here..

 

Steve Serr's Miller / Cragar is is second to none in my book. Stay away from the Frick heads. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Herniated mine between L4 and L5 tearing apart the Nova during Spring Break ( too many hours bent over under the hood) in '04. Most of the pain went away after a year...

 

I'd have the Cragar every day of the week and twice on Sunday....

 

I was talking to Jay Steel at Taylor Engine on the subject of currently available overheads and he said that the Steve Serr Miller is far superior to the rest. He told me it's the only one that will actually work from the box whereas the others all need work of some kind.

 

Tried to search this but didn't find what I was looking for - will a Model B transmission bolt up to a Model A bellhousing? And vice versa, will a Model A transmission bolt up to a Model B bellhousing and uncut oil pan/lower bellhousing?

Thanks,
Will Kimble

 

No, to run a B with an A trans, you have to use the A clutch housing and modified A or B pan.

To run an A with a B trans, you have to run the B pan and upper clutch cover.
.

 

Thanks Crazydaddyo - I held an A/B to V8 tranny adapter up to the back of my '33 B that I just pulled the tranny off of and came to a similar conclusion.

What is the status of the T5 to torque tube project?

Will Kimble

 

I got some castings a couple of weeks ago, but they were wrong. The pattern has been changed and I was told monday that a new casting was made and I should see it this week. If all is good, the S-10 kit should be available after the New Year.

Dan
.

 

Those videos are great, thanks guys.

 

Model A is model A B bellhousing is different B case is different but all B stuf will work on A blocks
I have both and can post pics if needed
Ken

 

OK, so you can swap an uncut B pan and upper bellhousing onto an A engine and then use a B transmission? And a B pretty much needs to go to the A bellhousing to be adapted to anything else (A tranny, V8 tranny, AA to T5, etc.).

Thanks guys!

Will Kimble

 

Will,
There are two pan bolt holes that are different between the A and B blocks. The A has two holes close to the rear main that the B block doesn't. Also the B has two bolt holes towards the outside rear of the block. If you use the A pan on the B block, you will have to drill and tap two holes near the main cap and form indentations in the side of the pan for rod clearance. B had bigger rod journals and needs more clearence.

.

 

Closed auction for Ardun head.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...00278227777&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=

I'm wondering what the reserve was.

 

The head alone is @ $3500 new. With the side drive distributor your looking @ $4000.

 

Newbie question time: What are some redline numbers for your 4 bangers? Just curious.

 

on my T mill, with a flatty, stock bottom end, Al pistons, and no magnets on the fly wheel, was getting about 2,700 rpm

 

3500 - 3800 is about tops for a stock A.
.

 

4000 is the redline on my Riley 2 port It has turned faster but I do not care to run it faster.

 

At the Addison hillclimb last summer I was shifting at 3,500 or 40mph in second. It's got a Brumfield 5.9 head, inserts, dipper oiling, Winfield touring cam, B carb on an undrilled stock intake, stock but jet-hot coated exhaust and Aries muffler. Lots more there if you want to go higher, but conventional wisdom is keep it under 4,000 unless you have pressure oiling.
Fearless

 

In a "stock" model"A" with 650/16 rear tires(29.5") diameter and 3.54 gears you would be going 86+ MPH at 3500 RPM's. At 3800 RPM's the same combination would run 94+ Mph 3.54 were the original high speed gears. Standard ratio of 3.78 with same tire diameter at 3500 would result in 81+ MPH. 3800 would produce 88+MPH Don't think I would care to go that fast in a "stock" model "A". I don't remember very many that could do much better than 65/68 although I have heard of a couple that were said to hit 70+ The highest speed gears now are 3.27 and if you could get to 3800 you would win a 100 MPh 'T" shirt as you would be going 102+ MPH. Stock "A" engines might be able run unloaded 3500 to 3800 on a stand but for practical purposes I would think a "good" one would/could be expected to be more of the range of 3000/3200 RPM's IMO ( I guess I just have too much time on my hands )

 

Bill,
Your assuming a stock body Model A would reach red line in High gear. The aerodynamics would never let the HP of the stock model A to reach those speeds.
Besides, there aren't too many people that would have the guts to drive that fast in one!!!!

 

Anybody have any info on this old dual updraft manifold I just found? Theres nothing cast in it that would help identify it. Its a three piece held together with brass screws. Anybody else play with dual up-drafts?

 

My point exactly, furthermore, I wouldn't want to stand next to a "stock" model "A" engine turning 3600 to 3800 RPM on a stand which is the only place where one could go that fast. "It would come unglued like a Mickey Mouse watch." ( Old expression not used much these days) I'm curious where these numbers came from.

 

"Anybody else play with dual up-drafts?"

Nope, but I sure want to... Any thoughts on HP/drivability limitations for dual updrafts compared to a single 94 or 97?

Will Kimble

 

Yep I do!



Great fun, and they work well with the 'police' car head.

 

My engine in mild tune produced maximum power at 3000 rpm on the chassis dyno.

The same engine in its current race (?) spec produces maximum power at 4000 rpm on the chassis dyno.

The can always rev it way further than 4000 rpm but there really is no point.