I'm working on a 1950 Canadian Meteor (a Ford with a Mercury-esq grille...) for an older gentleman. Rebuilt 239. The carb looks to be a knockoff of a Holley 94 - it's either brand new or a rebuild. I can't any stamping or logos on it, there is a tag saying made in the USA but that's it. The mechanical fuel pump isn't working & all of my usual local sources are telling me out of stock. The car came with a electric pump (not installed); I see no markings but it sure looks like a Carter P4259. So I wired that inline. It overfills the carb to the point where fuel pours out of the vent tube. I figured too much pressure, so I picked up a Holley 12-803 regulator, which does not require a byp***. It doesn't seem to be enough enough, I still have a fountain of fuel from the vent tube...This regulator has a range of 4.5-9 psi; I've used it many times, but never with a Holley 94. After doing some internet searching, it looks like I need a regulator that can get down to around 3 psi. Looking for suggestions on a regulator, and also if anyone has float settings for the carb that would be swell....
I suggest you go beyond your usual sources and put a proper mechanical fuel pump on it. This is especially so since it's not your car and belongs to an elderly gentleman. Electric fuel pumps really need safety shut off and impact switches...that kind of stuff.
Well, reaching back to my childhood when my stepfather had a couple of 52/53 Mercuries when he and my mom first got together I'd have to say the reason that the electric pump got put on is that the pushrod ate the fuel pump lobe on the cam. That was pretty common back then. A quick check shows that that carter pump puts out more fuel pressure and flow than most Holley 94 carbs want or can use. From the Speedway catalog Carter Carter P4259 6 Volt Electric Fuel Pumps The inlet and outlet ports are both 1/4" NPT It is suitable for most RV, marine, agricultural, industrial and performance applications The rotating vanes driven by a heavy-duty wet six volt motor that delivers 5-3/4 PSI max pressure and a flow rate up to 72 GPH I don't have an issue with electric pumps as long as you have a separate cut off switch from the ignition switch but it is still wired though the ignition switch. One that is easy to reach and preferably has a light.
Search for Malp***i Filter King - it's a very period looking filter with a build in pressure regulator that get's you down to 2,5 psi or less.
You need the 1-4 psi Holley 12-804 regulator, or simply get the Holley regulator diaphragm repair kit 12-807 that includes a low and high pressure spring, and change to the low psi spring. The only difference between the 803 and 804 is the spring.
I used an electric to prime only after sitting for a while. Mech pump regulated to 2.5 lbs pressure 7 it works GR8. Make sure the float is adjusted right.
Thanks for the replies! I agree the mechanical pump is the way to go and if it were my car I'd do it. The fellow who owns the car is trying to save every dollar he can, and he already had the electric pump....Eventually I think we'll get a mech pump and use the electric pump to prime as suggested.
Watch this video: Carbureted Regulators - Holley Install a Holley low pressure regulator. LOW Fuel Pressure Regulator Holley Quick Fuel Carburetor Carb 1-4 PSI 30-804-SWG | eBay
fuel pumps on rock auto 37 bucks.... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l+239cid+v8,1339691,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256
I personally would suggest getting an inertia switch from the trunk of any 1992-2011 crown victoria if youre running an electric unit. even if its off topic, its safety, you can hide it somewhere in the trunk, you only need to press it if it gets set off (dont jump any railroad tracks and you'll be fine)
It’s an inertia switch, so yes….it opens when you are hit in the rear. or you hit it with your hand hard enough for a test. You reset it by pushing down the red spring ****on. The contacts inside do not care what voltage is p***ing thru it.