hey bro not working dumber this carb is setup for my built engine why buy another carb when i already have a good one.i dont mine wrenching on my ride..
If holleys arn't any good why so many at the drag strip? don't racers know whats up, or do they like to go slow?
I bet you are a pay to play guy. You don't know any more than you read in Street Rodder, or Hot Rod, or what your "mechanic" tells you. Lame.....
Holley carbs usually run faster at the strip. Edelbrock/carters are usually more user friendly. Holleys run best at 7 to 7.5 pounds of fuel pressure. Check your float levels and possible debris in the needle and seats. I have seen new Holleys with "trash" in them. Pull the float plugs out one at a time with the car running if fuel sloshes out float level is to high adjust it with a flat blade and a 5/8 wrench. you want the fuel to just barely trickle out same on the secondary side of carb
Do not get an Edelsuck!! The carb you have will work. Along with the other Holley supporters, make sure there is not a piece of dirt or rust scale in the needle seat. Also what are all of the race carbs developed after??? Afb who? ebrok who? Holley. Buy a book, learn how it works and use it. Get some donations from the other smart asses before you buy what they think you should have.
I've always had good luck with Hollys. What you describe sounds like a needle valce problem to me. The only Edelbrock I ever used made my pick-up run hot. That might be a jetting problem I don't know, but since I had an extra Holly I replace it and cured the problem. I can't imagine a crab more user friendly than a Holly but there may be.
Edelbrocks run leaner in the middle out of the box a simple metering rod swap would've cured your overheating problem there blown mopar. Edelbrocks can be rebuilt in about 10 minutes, pretty user friendly, but a well tuned Holley will flat out outperform a well tuned Edelbrock any day of the week
Check your needles first, make sure you dont have trash keeping them open. You'll know you have trash when you crank your igntition on and with electric pump on you'll see fuel pouring into the barrels. You cant miss the hissing sound of fuel pouring in too. If your float level is very high plus bad needles plus 3 or more psi you'll see the fuel pouring out the vents too. If you dont know when the last rebuild was on the carb or how long it sat go ahead and replace the needles. The rubber tips can go bad. If no? then... Check your float levels. Set them at brass plug level or below as a good starting point. With f/p reg. 3-5 psi is always a good starting point. Sometimes when I trouble shoot carbs that have been laying around, I pull them apart and replace the metering gaskets, check the fuel jet sizes and set them back to stock if it needs done and plug the power valves just for testing the carb out. I also install new diaphrams and have a go at it. If the carb works out then I go back and install a specific power valve for my engine.
carb does run. runs real good when i got the car it sat for months. it did what it did because of cheap gas and sitting .i replaced the accelertor pump the old one was syrupy and gummy its all good now......
lol! It takes tuning for a Holley to run right out of the box -true. Unless you go out and buy one of those specific tuned $600 plus specialty carbs. Since I dont drag race anymore I would get 2 Edelbrocks and a dual quad intake and be done with. In the past I've done anything and everything to make a Holley save gas, annular discharge, squirter changes, vac sec and still I've always been impressed by the carters "Edelbrocks." I guess I like both for the (street).
Well I started with 1956's with my 49 car and then to racing OCRA ( for your kids, Orange county RACE WAY) in the 70'st If you want to use a carb racing go with the holly, but if you don't want to fuck with it all the time use a different carb. Been there and done THAT . My birthday is tomorrow and I am 70. been around a few days before most of you.
alright having another problem rebuilt the 750 on the weekend installed it and now wont keep idle have to have it around 1200 to stay on and even then the rpm goes high and low and dies
alright installed the carter i have runs and drives the stumble went away but still not picking up real sluggish.just installed a fuel pressure gauge and at idle it reads almost 8 and when i get it to 3000 rpm the needle bounces around from5.5 to 7.5.?what does this mean
Is this a small block Chevy? Why don't you try 16-18 initial and 32-34 in by 3000 rpm. That's what I use on my BBC and small blocks.
Carter and Edelbrock carbs will flood with any fuel pressure over 5.5. Might act ok for awhile, but if ya let it idle too long, it will start to run rich.
thats the thing when i drive around 20-35 its fine but when i want to acclerate or punch it is a dog and doesnt clear up then go
Check the coil. had a similar problem(would not rev above 2500-3000 under load). replaced carb no change. replaced coil, ran like a champ.