Home built model A chassis questions

I am looking at building a chassis out of 2x4 or 2x6 tube steel for my project and have a few questions for people who have done it. First I have a set of prints for a stock chassi and I see that it gets wider in the rear. Domost most people whouild with tube steel leave the rails straight or do they make the rear wider?? And what width should the rear be set at at the axel centerline if it is made wider at the rear?

 

Probably the same width as the A frame was.

2x6 is overkill.

 

They get wider at the rear. If you are using a stock "A" body there are several mounting points that you have to support and shim along the frame, you also need to have tabs off the side of the frame in order to mount. The rear cross member of an "A" chassis is curved and is where the spring mounts to attach to the rear which is directly below. Follow dimensions on the drawing for all mounting points. You may want to do some homework, it may be cheaper and easier in the end to by a chassis that's alreday done.

 

I built a frame from 2x4 .120 wall and cut the tube to the exact dimensions as the stock frame. It was light, strong, and held a big block well.

 

Rustynewyorker is right, 2 x 4 is much better. Yes, I would make it the same dimensions as a model a frame, or at least wider in the back than in the front. Couple of reasons for that. First of all, it ends up looking better and secondly, it gives more room near the transmission area for things like master cylinder and the transmission itself to fit there.

You can get the original frame measurements off of Wescott Fiberglasses site.

Don

 

We build model A fram rails out of 2 X 4 tubing. We make the back part of the frame a littl narrower with a small kick up. This way the kick up fits inside the subframe. Makes for a lot less cutting and gives a nice ride height.
You can buy the frame rails and all the crossmembers,brackets,bodymounts,engine mounts ect. From Horton Inc or Welder Series. The parts can be purchased unwelded so you can put it all together yourself!

 

Here is what I know 'bout that. While reworking my stock frame I came to find out that most aftermarket frames are made like the stock one except they do not run the taper all the way to the back. Where the stock frame gets to 36" wide, they stop the taper and reshape the rails back to square (so they become parallel again). This allows their cross members the be attached with a square corner at the rear. Stock frames are not square at the back corner as the rails taper all the way back. Stock frames +- 39" wide at back and aftermarket are usually 36"
And, as had been said, 2x4 is your deal.

 

it really comes down to personal preference. some people want the look of an original frame, and others want the look of the frame following the shape of the body. start looking at pictures and figure out what is visually appealing to you, then build that!

 

If you are on here you want it traditional . But you want it stronger and stiffer if you are building a new one . How stock appearing do you want it ? How low will it be, will everyone see it ? Do you have a stock frame to reuse body mounts from ? Build it to the best you can with your skills . Good luck !