Hi all, been a while since I posted anything on my COE build. To get you up to date it's a '47 Chevy with a mid mounted LS/4L60 combo. The latest thing I've come up with an electric shifter. I have built a prototype using a linear actuator, a control board, and some other cheep components from a electrical supply house. So far I'm under $200 and it has about 5 pounds of push or pull. Here is a pick of the current progress on the build and a ****py video of the shifter project. Rob
Well that is pretty dam traditional.....haha, just kidding, that is awesome. Can you build one for my Dodge 6 speed manual behind my ***mins?
That video sure explains it very well. You have sure found a great way to deal with the mid mount gearbox set up.
I like it, now for the questions! Are you sure the actuator has enough snort to pull the trans out of park even if I'm hanging on a hill with a 20,000lbs trailer behind? Can the rotary switch be changed to a set of push ****ons? (I'm thinking about the old Mopar push ****ons) Is there a way to lock out park and reverse? I am an electronics idiot, how does a pot set distance? I would have to have a pretty easy to follow set of instructions to get it built, but I sure do like the idea. I have an Allison, but I think the shift pattern is the same. b-bop, you need paddle shifters like the formula 1 cars have!
Am I sure it has enough pull? no, I am not. The actuator is rated at 50 Newton meters of pull or push at stall. that works out to 38 foot pounds of force. If I need more I can get one in the same size with up to 175 Nm so some where around 100 pounds. I would think that would be enough. The only trade off is more power equals slower speed. Could it be done with push ****ons? sure. I am not planning on doing any business so any of my ideas are free. When you get to that point I can draw something up for you are maybe build you one and we can swap something out. Take a look at the drawing below to get an idea of whats involved. For the pots (potentiometers) are used to drop an input voltage from reference (3.3 volts) to somewhere from 0 volts to 3.3 volts. This new reference is used by the control card as a position reference. It also has an internal pot and when the 2 voltages match the control card removes the output voltage to the actuator. When I rotate the switch a new reference voltage is given to the card. I would love to mount this up and give it a try but I am out of town for 2 to 3 more months (8000 miles out). If it all works good I will change the packaging to about 1/4 the size. Rob
Yes B-Bop you are correct this build is not very traditional. I have a ton of pictures and info on the build but have resisted posting them. I do have an pretty detailed build thread going on on the 67-72 Chevy web sight if your interested. As for the park or reverse lock out question, yes it could be done I'm playing with that idea.
Interesting idea. I am wondering why you used pots for voltage differentiation instead of different value resistors. I ***ume so you could fine tune the voltage to get the precise correct distance? It certainly would not be difficult to make it workable with paddles. Nice prototype.
Post all of your build pics here in the Social Group, as far as I know we are free to do whatever we want while we are in this part of the board. Love to see the rest of your stuff.
Cool idea, but if you hook the blue wire to the red wire it will also give you tomorrows' winning lottery numbers...or maybe that's just the "pot" talking...ha.
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