home made tools and equipment...

very nice

 

I tried to make this out of parts I could find easily at the local hardware store or big box home improvement store.

I started with this rolling cabinet at Menard's. It's just a generic box, looks pretty much like my Craftsman chest, just slightly smaller:



http://menards.com/main/tools-hardw...ur-drawer-mobile-cabinet/p-1448434-c-9188.htm

I used 4" PVC pipe, there are two types, at least atMenard's, I used the heavier solid core type.

The filters are two different types. They all measure 16"X20"X1", that sized fit nicely into the box and seemed like a common size. The first one was a cheapie one used as a pre-filter, catches larger particles and is cheap to replace, it helps slow down the contamination of the second filter. The second is a HEPA type, not a real HEPA but it was cheaper, $25 and said it catches smaller micron particles and smoke. The last is another cheapie filter that I am going to tape acharcoall mat over on the inside to filter out odors.

I made the filter box out of 3/4" particle board? There was a couple of different types of boards, I bought the cheapest. To make the box fit inside the tool box I used a piece of 1/4"Masonitee on the inner wall.

The blower was from Harbor Freight. I got a email flyer with a coupon a few weeks ago:



http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-portable-ventilator-97762.html

I bought the HVAC sheet metal parts from the hardware store, they actually fit pretty nice into the ends of the blower. For the inlet of the blower I used a 6"X8" reducer, for the outlet I used an 8" elbow with atransitionn piece into the box. I removed the screen in the ends of the blower and poprivetedd the sheet metal pieces in. There were some modifications but not much. I also made adiffuserr plate to aim part of the flow up so all of the flow wasn't aimed at the bottom half of the filters only. I cut out one end and sandwiched a piece of expanded metal between the filter box and the inside of the tool box.

The hardest part was building the swivel for the top of the tool box. I had to scrounge up a piece of 4" metal pipe. My metal supplier wanted $35 for an 18" piece but was able to get a drop off piece from one of my customers for free. I had to make the collar out of four pieces. The longer inner piece, the middle collar that I welded to the reinforcement piece of metal on top of the tool box and two collars, below and above the middle outer collar. They stopped the inner piece from going up and down.

 

The last thing I want to do is kick anything sideways that is supporting 500 pounds over a customer's car. That's the reason for the taller wheels so they will roll easier. I don't care if I have to jack up the front of the car. Most times you end up jacking it up anyway if you are transplanting a complete motor and trans together.

If you don't like the design, don't use it. Just showing a fix for many who have suffered through the same issue as I was having.

 

This post is supposed to give others ideas of how it can be done...NOT how it must be done....My hoist has 6 casters because it folds up and All six of them swivel. I have never had a problem of it tipping ...unless you count when I tried using it outside in the snow..but that's another story....

 

Just pointing out an alternative design that works very well. Moving sideways is easy.

Jacking up is done in most cases anyway.

Having used both styles of hoists I've found the design of my old one(now the sons) is easier to use and more stable.

Another way of looking at things.

Alternatives to be sure. Always a different way. Now if we are talking off road hoists that's another thing altogether

 

My big ass engine test stand I'm building ,
It's big enough to test a Detroit.

 

The one thing I can't stand is having to kick an engine hoist left to right !!!!
1500 lbs of metal swinging off a chain in a finished engine compartment and I'm supposed to take my eyes off of it, sit on the ground, stick my leg under the car, then kick one leg of the hoist, this in turn will put rotation thru the mast and hopefully move the other leg too. In a finished engine compartment!!!

If the castor won't Turn-Cast-& Roll my choice of fixes would NOT be a straight line wheel that married me to kicking the fucking thing for ever more 90* to wheel rotaton instead of just when the castors got hung up.

 

Yeah, it seems no matter how strait of a shot it is lined up in, that motor always has to go to one side or the other once it's dangling in the engine compartment...I've had my share of "touch ups" from kicking the damn hoist to get it where it needed to be.


Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

Perhaps do the Pollock thing and have the whole lift swivel .

 

Sounds like you need to lube up your casters. I find casters on all 4 corners are a little bit of a pain in the ass for stabbing engines, but they are handy if you are swinging radiators and heads into trucks. A well lubed set of casters feels alot like an overhead hoist on a clean floor.

 

The new wheels I put on our lift have grease fittings on both the wheels and the swivel. The original casters have neither, making lubing them a pain. The original casters are also made about as cheap as you could make them. After kicking them a few times to get them in the direction you want them, they start to bend and open up the slot that holds the ball bearings. Once that track gets loose, the swivel has a hard time doing it's job.

 

heres a project my boy did for when we go overlanding in 2yrs time.
it fits onto front mounted tow ball fitting,we fitted it drivers side as when in europe that will be the side farthest from rd.<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <!-- / message --><!-- attachments -->

 

That is wonderful! I hope your boy will take up your interest in 4xFun and it looks like he is learning his way around the shop really well. Good Job!!

 

I know the original casters are shit on these inport hoist but they work alot better when they are well oiled.

 

Hot Damn....Home made foundry oven.......
Old five gal propane tank some rebar and tubeing plus a lot of time and effort for my brother in law!!!!!

 

new roof rack were building will have extendable bars at front and back to hook awning on for working under.

 

Hi All,

Ever work under the hood on a car and wish you had a place to rest your tools and equipment? I did and finally did something about it. I built a service tray on casters that can reach into the engine bay and has enough space to hold your tools and diagnostic equipment too.

The basic structure is made with box steel to ensure it's sturdiness.



The tray frame is made with angle iron. This allows for the tray to sit nicely in place. After I completed welding everything together, I primed and painted it.



I chose to go with a 2'x2' tray to ensure I had plenty of space for tools. The tray is made from 3/4 plywood and covered with a foam backed vinyl.
Here it is, complete with protective foam and all,



Now I can work on my car and not worry about where to rest my tools or beer



Why the diagonal legs? I wanted to ensure that there was little to no chance for the cart to hit the car when I use the cart on the fender side. The diagonal legs act as a wedge around the tires causing the cart to stop before it gets too close(don't let the pic fool you, the support rods are 4" away from hitting the fender).



I was worried about sockets rolling off the tray so I made one revision. I swapped out the 3/4 plywood for 1/2 plywood. Now the tray sits lower in the tray frame giving me a lip around the surface.

 

Fascinating stuff; now if someone could invent a time stretcher, always run out of time! Here's one I made several years ago. This is for the nylon shift linkage grommets, yeah the ones that won't release, UNLESS you have the right tool!! I didn't want to spend 60 bucks for the "tool truck" one, so I made one. I keep the tool catalogs around so using a picture sure helps. Basically using 2 pieces of 1 1/14" x 3/16 strap steel, approximately 12 inches long, heat the ends and twist to a 90 degree angle, both the same. Now position them on top and determine a pivot spot, I made mine with the pivot about 3 and 1/4 from the tip. You will have to clearance one of the straps to fit over the other one, I'll post another pic later. About 3 1/4 from the top is where you want the pivot, drill it for a bolt, 1/4 or 5/16 will work. On the tip, you want a 'two pronged fork", approx. 5/8 wide and 1/2 deep. The other end is a 1/4 x 3/4 long bolt, be sure the bolt ends pretty much centered over the fork opening. I finished the straps by welding pieces of 3/8 rod slightly curved, position these so you won't pinch your hand when the tool is collapsed, OUCH!! Basically the fork goes on the lever and the bolt pushes the link out, they release very easily, but take dynamite without a tool!! Happy New Year!!

 

Here's a little piece I invented and we teach the students to make for holding round tubing in a standard vise. Holds like a MO-FO and will not mar the surface of the tube. Just take a piece of tubing that is a nice slip fit over the piece you are working on, and weld a couple small plates to it. Slice the tube open between the plates.

Slide the project tube in and clamp the plates in a vise.

Obviously, you'll need a different size for each O.D. of tubing you're working on...

 

Those 2 are so simple that one wonder how come I never think of that.
On the to do list for 2013.

 

Great idea, I cut pipe and conduit and always have to clean up the mar marks as best as possible, this will eleminate that problem.

One suggestion I have is to add a piece of foam to the diagonal brace so it doesn't scratch the fender. Good idea.

 

Credits: (and all that legal stuff) this is a slight variation on a similar tool by Per (Metalman Sweden) and Bill Gibson, as shown on Metalmeet.


This is a tool for tipping flanges, as one would do on door skins or inner doors, offered as a low buck alternative for those who may only need a one-time/limited use of such a device. I started with 1/2" key stock, which came in a one foot length. The gave me enough material for two, if I ever get to finishing both.

The short leg was marked at about 1-1/2" in, clamped in the vise, heated with a rosebud torch and persuaded to a 90 degree angle with a hammer.



Used the bandsaw to cut some notches about an inch in. These should be about twice the thickness (or so) of the metal you plan on using, to allow some free play in using the device.

The short end had a #21 hole drilled through the slot and tapped for 10-32 screw to use as a "distance stop". The long end would use a tapped hole to secure a separate stop device.





The second tool was used as a drilling/milling fixture for making the stop device for the long arm. A tight clearance hole was drilled centered on the 1/2 stock, a cap device was bent to fit snugly and come down the sides past the slot, and it was clamped in the vise at the various marks shown to start the slot. Although I neglected in-process pictures of this step, follow along with the descriptions.





Then, to clean between the holes, a dremel with an 1/8 diameter ball end burr was used as a "milling" bit. Be sure to extend a good (safe) amount of the smooth side, so the cutter has less tendency to eat away at the drill guide. Then with the dremel bit inserted, place stop device over and work back and forth to open up the slotted hole. Repeat for other side of the slot, as this cutter is considerably smaller than our clearance hole.







Use caution with moving fingers in close proximity of metal cutting devices, as I did draw a bit of blood (note pictures 4 and 5). Your results may vary, better or worse, so take appropriate precautions. (have band-aids handy or 911 pre-dialed, depending on how your luck runs)

Short 10-32 screw and washer added to secure the stop at dimension desired.





Here's an "inner door" sample I whipped up real quickly, sorry for the lack of detail



After panel and folded edge is cut to correct size for the application, mark desired flange width and adjust tool stops accordingly.



Bend slightly, working from one end to the other. Repeat repeatedly.



Two-ended tool allows you to use whichever end provides best leverage.





All ready for the "door skin" ............

 

^^^^^^^^^^ nice tool ^^^^^^^^^^^

 

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Nice work.
<!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]-->

 

Very nice idea M&P on the door skin tool.
I believe the drill size is #21 for a 10-32 screw and #29 for 8-32.



Ago

 

thanks for the correction.... that's what I used, just had a brain cramp writing up the thread. Maybe from all the blood loss.....

 

id like to hear more about the vise grips too !

 

I think they may be in this thread someplace

But it's easier for me to find it here....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=760196

down at post 4 shows the fabrication and use....

 

Not a new idea but I made this 3 point hitch for old ford 8n tractor for moving trailers around the shop

 

New to this forum. I have to say... WOW!!! So many cool Ideas. I will be stealing some of them.


So, I seem to have gravitated to this thread for one reason... Im cheap. Hahaha. I have no problem buying tools, but If I can make it, I will. Much of the stuff I build is not unique. Just my spin on a particular idea.


It seems that, much like many of you, I enjoy building the stuff as much as using it.

Here are a few...


Dimple Dies for recessed hardware…











Die set to make actual dimples...






Simple Motorcycle Wheel truing stand…





Planishing Hammer...








E Wheel...








Tube Notcher attachment for the lathe. I love this one. When I was shopping for a tube notcher I realized that the machines I was interested in were nothing more than a mini lathe with one purpose. So I found a 360 degree Palmgren swivel vise and made a V-Block on the clamp surface at center of the lathe spindle, self centering the tube to be notched. Then made provisions to attach it to the cross-slide. The result: a fast way to perfectly notch tubing at any angle. I use roughing end mills and hole saws for cutters.