homebuilt quickchange question

I've been trying to find pics/info on fabricated/conversion quickchange centers. I've attached a pic of one from the H.A.M.B., A Roberts. I've seen a little on the one from Wilson Welding, and one little pic of the Austin Rod Shop unit, from Rodder's Journal #26. Does anybody have info on the Atkinson conversion, or any others?

 

My dad used to have one that was made by a guy in Hamilton Ohio for stock cars in the 50's-60's. It was a Koldstat(spelling)? It was a steel housing with a cast aluminum cover with a K on it. I beleive it used Ford end bells. I don't remember much else about it, maybe some one else remebers these.

 

There was one on Epay a couple of weeks ago - Kolstet

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...00015366402&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1

 

That is the one I was talking about, we sold it a few years ago for $100. I guess we should have kept it.

 

Did you look and see what else he was selling?

EvilBay #200025665361

Holy Schnikeys! Somebody here has to know who the seller is.

 

Yes,
It's Mike Russell of James R Moonjeam 32 Ford Roadster fame
He sold that one for like a $125k, still had the original ch***is out from under it. He is also an avid flathead speed parts collector as you can tell by the ePay listings. This guy is serious! I bet that cast iron quickie will go for more like $2.5k. A one off type deal & he knows he has.
Sold it for a C-note huh? sheez, i wish I would have been there to buy it. the R&P if they are good are worh more than that.
This stuff is still out there so just keep on searching. If you are trying to make your own, talk to wilson welding, maybe they can give you some info.

 

usually 4.11 R & P gears are good

 

Whatever you have is gonna work fine, because you just choose whatever qc gears you need to get to the final ratio you want. Here's some ratio charts -

http://www.westernracing.com/reference/quickchange.htm
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/fp_images/application_charts/91711.jpg
http://www.babygrandracing.com/downloads.htm

 

Although if you happen to stumble over some harder to find and therefore more pricey 3.54's, you probably would want to sell them and use the more common 3.78 or 4.11 for a qc.

 

I used to own, for a short time, a converted A center with the name DAVID on it. Was mostly steel with only the rear cover specially cast in aluminum. I had called Wayne Atkinson way back when he ran the shop in Idaho, and he said he had never heard of any others with that name.

I sold it back to the guy I bought it from (Dutch Eshelman), and he was gonna give it to a nephew or somesuch restoring an old sprinter in Texas. So, any Texas guys seen an old sprinter around with a DAVID quickie?

 

here's the one from ebay.

 

I spoke with an old Dallas late 40s / early 50s dirt track racer. He said he used to run one that was made by "Pappy Hough" (pronounced "Huff") back in the day. "They were strong if you kept LOTS of grease in 'em" he said.

Here's my Wilson Welding quickie...

 

Thats "Pappy Hough"

 

Mike Whitney in Cincy has TWO Kolstadts

 

What does the Wilson Welding one cost?

 

Were the people that made these back in the day putting any identifying names or marks on them? Have one that looks a lot like the Wilson Welding one, but came out of old sprint car. The bolt pattern on the rear cover is different,and of course it's missing. Was told possibly under spur gears on back plate. Any ideas?

 

Yeah,

But his parents named him Roscoe and he called New Jersey home.

 

In the '40s, Lee Izor of Springboro, OH (just south of Dayton) was building Q.C.s similar to many of these for use in his own track roadster and probably those of any of his peers who would buy one. The only one I've seen in real life is in a '38 Ford stock car owned by **** Jones in Bloomington, IN-it had Izor's name and a number stamped into the rear cover.

 

at this point, I have every intention of building a quickchange from scratch, or at least, almost from scratch. I have a nice Ford center section, and all the internals are available new from Speedway Motors for a Halibrand V8 quickie, so....
I plan on building mine as a closed drive, and then fab'ing an open drive conversion, that way If I ever actually put it in anything I have my choice of open or closed driveshaft.

 

Here's my QC. No markings on it anywhere. Can anyone ID it?

 

that looks like the one i have. the bolt pattern on the rear cover look the same. how about some measurements of the bolt pattern on the cover? could not find any name markings on rear.

 

Sure, I'll take some measurements tomorrow for you. Try to get some pics of yours.

 

Roscoe "Pappy" Hough (pronounced Huff) definately built some quickchanges out of his Patterson New Jersey shops during the fifties.

A friend of mine that raced at Patterson's Hinchliffe Stadium told me that if you brought Pappy a rearend from a Milk truck, he'd convert it to a quickchange for $80.00. Gear sets were $10.00 a set, so most guys spent $100 and got the rear plus two sets of gears. I would ***ume that the reference to the Milk truck was just a way of making sure that the rearend brought in for conversion was of the full-floater type.

There was another shop in Goshen New York that also built quickchange rearends for Midgets and Stock Cars. I think his name was Chet LeBaron.

 

4:11 or 4:86 are the usual Q/C ring and pinion ratios if that helps.

 

Well I should have read a bit before I started a new thread.
There is another Homemade QC on the water now.

A BART --so the ad said ---- here is the # 320090509252

 

Here is a picture of the BART mentioned in that ebay ad. I thought I would attach it so there would be a record of them later on the HAMB if someone did a search. This unit sold for $470 on Mar-14-2007

 

Thanks, I have never figured out how to post a picture on here --even with scootermcrad trying to coach me !!

 

So, what is the trick to scratch building a quickchange? I'd love one, but no way I could afford new or vintage units. Building one out of an old banjo rear as my budget would allow sounds like the way to go.

 

You gotta be able to weld but, more importantly, you need access to either a machinist or a milling machine so you can machine the lower shaft bores parallel to the pinion shaft..