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Hot Rods Homogenized ‘28 roadster build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Anderson, Oct 24, 2021.

  1. ( . )( . )
     
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  2. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As close to symmetrical as I felt like getting. I built these caps for the 5-window at work and will probably make the same thing for my roadster with some different wing nuts.
    D3437E33-1FBE-4846-AA72-4A9C312628B4.jpeg

    6890C6D9-698D-409F-9A6C-143072103A2F.jpeg

    I have to sing the praises of this band saw while I’m at it. Long story short this isn’t the saw I sought out but it’s the one I ended up with. Milwaukee deep cut, corded, and with adjustable speed…and a little light built in. Then the Swag Off-road stand for it completes the package, and it has been really awesome for cutting all the tubing. I don’t have the room for a legit band saw at home, but this bench top setup does a hell of a job.
    F253EBF9-3D2A-4B81-99B0-3068EADD32C7.jpeg

    Up next will be upper shock mounts and finalizing headlight mounts. I also have a plan to cut down my Zoops water pump riser to position the fan exactly where I want it.
     
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  3. Definitely getting the McGee/Scritchfield vibe off of that spreader bar. Lookin good!

    And, thanks for posting your band saw! I've been trying to figure out how to get one, but I also have space issues. that would work for anything I need. Do you have a model number of the saw?
     
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  4. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It is a 6232-20. Short story long, I ordered a dewalt from Amazon but wasn’t paying near enough attention and ordered a battery powered one, which I did not want. So I sent it back, but the only thing I could get by that weekend was this one from Lowes. I had ordered the stand at the same time as the Dewalt and kept it because it was supposed to fit a bunch of different brand and model saws. Well it doesn’t actually fit this saw, but there are two holes that were “close enough” in the mounting plate to get the job done. The saw and blade aren’t totally square on the stand but it works. I’m sure Swag sells one specifically for this saw.
     
  5. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,231

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Been thinking about that saw set up as well. I think they make one you can put in a vice instead of a table top also?
     
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  6. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I believe they do, but I wouldn't want to tie up the vise.
     
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  7. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,231

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    I was thinking it would be handy if it was a tool you only occasionally used. I am short on work bench surface so that also comes into play I suppose.

    Nice to have either way :)
     
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  8. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Cut the headers to length and made my caps. A little shorter than the ones on the 5w. I also found these perfect wing bolts on McMaster Carr. They are stainless. Should take a little clean up and polish nicely. Where’s my copper antisieze??

    1B19BC91-B474-4C18-9E80-811E40DBB7E6.jpeg

    These are the pieces I made that are welded inside the ends of the headers for the bolt to thread into.
    EB703DE1-908F-4236-A39B-000476A8FAC5.jpeg 1F83B629-F59D-4B03-8922-4D6995CD966D.jpeg

    Also machined these bungs for the shock mounts. I plan on getting the upper mounts done this week, and to finalize the headlights while I’m at it.
    4BAC5C69-EDC3-452C-BB68-C4CBAD3A36CB.jpeg
     
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  9. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,231

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Looks slick
     
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  10. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Tonight’s fartin-around project. Found an older non-auto gauge of the same diameter as my new speedo with a better looking bezel. It was $30-ish on eBay, and I figured I could swap the bezel over. It worked out pretty well.
    1EF1E490-01F2-4FE8-A44F-9846D8981E5F.jpeg 5B38C4E8-3D85-4F9E-8C1B-6385BBAFC7F2.jpeg 3F31DB42-112D-4EDD-87ED-688B92FF86EF.jpeg
     
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  11. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,231

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Even better with it painted black. How hard was it to pop off the bezels?
     
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  12. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,517

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Does that AC gauge glow in the dark?
     
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  13. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    ………whoa!!!
    9E99BD1C-57C3-4E6B-9607-887B511A87EE.jpeg
     
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  14. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
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    I thought I’d need to make a special tool, but a small flat blade screwdriver, then a bigger one works fine to peel back the crimped edge.
     
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  15. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,517

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    I have a set of those I plan on putting in my 34 roadster when I get to it. I would love to find a fuel gauge and a 8000 rpm tach. I have a nos AC 2500 cable drive tach but it doesn't glow...
     
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  16. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,517

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    The paint probably has tritium in it. I wouldn't lick your fingers after touching it.. lol
     
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  17. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you want the leftovers it’s yours, it is cable drive
     
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  18. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,517

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    @Anderson Thanks, but it's a long way to ship and I'd still have to get it redone to at least 5000 rpm. Maybe someone else cal use it.
     
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  19. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
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    Finally got the shocks done. Made a little fixture to aid in drilling through the boxing plates in the same spot as the rails. After I trimmed the shock mount bungs to length I plug welded them through the boxing plates, then welded the outside. After that, I heated and bent everything to be where I wanted it. These Speedway shocks are for mock up, I’ll be using some chrome covered ones from Roadster Supply in the end. Then finished locating the headlight mounts and drilled/tapped the frame for hardware.

    I also cut the holes in my gauge insert, but the material I thought I would use for the inlay wasn’t quite right.

    3166C52D-474E-4E83-ACE0-971A75EC80CE.jpeg 1FAA18BE-0B4E-4890-8E62-D81B1847D32A.jpeg AF6A5327-F15F-4D15-8590-839A17975742.jpeg BA9436A1-B964-4746-BB72-AFB52EBD39FB.jpeg 0903C33D-5FE3-4EF3-AB79-0C4CEB442B42.jpeg 4BF17AF5-AA53-4046-BE5B-1D0D0224E4ED.jpeg
     
  20. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 8,107

    Malcolm
    Member
    from Nebraska

    Great progress. I especially like the headers and caps!
     
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  21. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,231

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    That’s a clever jig for the threw hole. Very nice
     
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  22. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
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    Probably not the most original idea but found some guitar pick guard material I liked for the gauge insert.
    50A51336-38E1-4174-8BBB-5B3161BF3E49.jpeg
     
  23. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,231

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    I can dig it. I think @oldsboy ended up doing a pick guard type inlay as well
     
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  24. Looks awesome! I think I have a pick in that same pattern.
     
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  25. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Needed to clearance the Buick drums for the early ford backing plates. I have had some pretty good success in the past using a router on aluminum, so gave that a shot and it worked pretty well! Also got my steering box mounting plate made, might get it welded in tomorrow.
    1C5E7F8C-0DFC-414E-9E62-E10A28C07F1A.jpeg 0534DC78-5F4D-44D9-B6F6-2492DAEA68E3.jpeg 715BA280-7485-4E81-889B-D1858D48E97B.jpeg F0C5B672-7D1B-4654-92BE-F56AB6A51C47.jpeg
     

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  26. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I mocked up the column and got the steering box mounted, then shortened the steering shaft and added the splined end for a u-joint. Luckily the header masks most of the u-joint stuff. I’ll wait until I’ve got a seat in it and have the column position figured out to finish the linkage. With weight of a full engine I think the front end will settle to have the tie rod and drag link parallel.

    The latest grill insert is a Vintique…and while it is pretty much junk, it at least fits the shell best. I’ll have to do some work to get it just right, but it’s close-ish.

    Now that the front end is about done, it’s close to sheetmetal time. I’m going to change out the rear crossmember in the frame and get everything else final welded soon, then start getting things lined up on the frame and start welding it together and doing patch work. I think the body will need to move forward another 1/2”, and I need to taper the bottom of the cowl to match the frame.

    97686BA5-6559-4AF9-80C1-8ACDFEF36CE6.jpeg D082E627-774B-4E20-B7EA-4D071EDDA304.jpeg 11CFD8AB-BA0A-4304-8F71-E9E892042EE8.jpeg 9C56DAE9-6548-4739-AB0A-8A8FA8B2C29F.jpeg 9C864185-12BA-4F91-ACA1-8B9B006025EA.jpeg 5A44F89C-F587-4A4F-974E-8D42D4CFCC2F.jpeg 9C3A5477-2A8C-4FDA-9010-DAA607CF2123.jpeg 8143521E-6DCB-4C41-A967-6CE6642D4B97.jpeg
     
  27. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have my engine just a little bit higher than most…but it still wasn’t high enough to get a factory fan on the water pump and clear the radiator hose, or even be above the bottom of the tank. So I got a Zips riser setup to put the fan 5” higher. Of course, that is a bit too high…and overlaps the top tank. Since I’ll need to get the fan closer to the radiator, I had thought of notching the top tank for fan clearance. But I also don’t think I’m going to stick with this radiator either, so needed a solution that wouldn’t have me cutting up a second radiator. I ended up cutting the Zips piece apart (after hacking off all the accessory brackets), took about 2” out of it, and welded it back together. It was a little bit more work than that, but not very involved. I drilled a piece of 3/8” steel to bolt everything down to hold it while welding and it worked pretty well. I need to do some light surfacing to completely flatten the gasket surfaces again but they’re still pretty close. And of course there’s still some weld cleanup, sanding, and texturing left to do.
    0BD6E972-71D5-4D06-9772-87EBABFDAA95.jpeg 2B9CAE6F-EA50-4F61-8017-C04158A472E6.jpeg AF3E0FB3-3DF2-485A-A427-8EA7C0CF87A2.jpeg 16BD1F85-B5FC-4CF2-82F8-0E94E70622D6.jpeg
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  28. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,448

    Anderson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Had a nice little day off yesterday which started with running out to Bass’ to pick up my new kingpin reamer. Buncha yard and house work today. But yeah…didn’t work on the car at all this weekend. I did get my “new” old chrome front backing plates.
    17FD42FE-A767-4090-AABF-AC01987A1F37.jpeg 6DB0285E-CAB1-4182-9895-F898C5A7AEDC.jpeg 3202B50A-AE28-472F-A8DC-915B14854BD0.jpeg 4170B759-3DA8-4B89-B344-C63C83820629.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2023
  29. Note to self: Anderson has an early Ford king pin reamer...

    And that pic of Bass' shoebox...:oops:
     
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  30. Great to see @Bass Shoebox still around!
     

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