Technical hornbutton upgrade

It happend to me that about half a year ago, i bought repop horn****on from the usual source. i fitted it in my "32 Roadster with original steeringcolumn and steeringwheel.
In the end of season the horn quit working and i promised my self a better horn than the one from japanese motobike. I found a very deep sound wintone 12 volt horn that suit the rod better. Today i checked all the connections, only to discover that the ****** wire snapped right at soldering to the pin. here's what i made to prevent the wire to snapp again.
i pushed the pin back out and chucked it into the lathe and milled it down to 3 mm diameter then hard-soldered a 3,mm br***rod to it about 40 mm long. I happed to have a br***-tube that had inside just big enough to slip over the 3mm rod and was little larger on the outside ( 4 mm ). I cut off a lenght of that ( no. 1 ) tube 25 mm and slipped it over the rod , then a second tube which i soldered on the bottom of the rod, leaving about 5mm between No.1 tube and No.2 tube so to be able to rotate No.1 tube on the rod easyly.

Once that accomplished, i put the whole back in the lathe added some lapping paste and lapped it in until smooth rotation of No.1 is possible whith only the little finger to give resistance. Next step ist to solder the wire in the bottom tube.
Then it was ready to clean the ***embly , push it back into the insulator( pressfit ) of the horn****on, 3 layers of shrink tube to cover the exposed rod and wire and also to prevent kinking, breaking or shorting to the steeringrod.

Prime advantage is, that the horn****on contact spinns freely on the contactpin, no matter how often one turnes the wheel.

The original horn****on contact is held with so much pressure, that the contactpin is not adequatly turning, so the wire ist constantly beiing twisted and snapps off at the soldering.
That is why manny buy once a horn-contact, until it breaks and then somewhat frustrated, install a new ****on somewhere else. Not my gl*** of whisky...