If you have ever shown in or been involved in car shows with ISCA judging sheets or other ***ociation judging sheets clocking means show points or not having points deducted. They didn't even discuss having the exact same number of threads exposed on every bolt with a nut showing and exposed threads showing.
There are probably a lot of us that do goofy **** like clocking clamps, or evenly spacing loom clamps etc... Its probably quite dumb to some for sure, bordering lunacy to others. Fact is, to some of us after making sure the big picture work was done properly, doing those other things add the last bit of quality to the build. At least thats what i tell myself, and how i see it. Hahaha Tony
Ok '******, I didn't read the whole topic so if someone else said it I guess I'm repeating. But what I tagged in bold in your reply is wrong. The stuff I work on, Packard, Duesenberg, Rolls Royce, and more, all subscribed to running screws in the right direction where seen. The instrument panels, garnish moldings, various interior items, if screws were visible they were all oriented in the same direction. I guess if you were selling just a ch***is for more money than one could buy a dozen or more Model A Fords you'd want your craftsmen to pay attention to such details. A Duesy running ch***is was $8,500. No body, just a running ch***is, a hood and 4 fenders. The ch***is was then sent to the coachbuilder of your choice. Packard, Rolls, Cadillac, Lincoln, Pierce Arrow, all had running ch***is options that would be delivered for custom coachwork. This one is my "lottery purchase no.1", a 34 Packard 1108 Dietrich Stationary Coupe. I'd have wanted all of my hardware aligned just as I still do today. That interior wouldn't be the same if they weren't aligned would it? The car: I also have a factory photo of a production Packard engine. Guess what? The hose clamps are all in the same direction, the screw slots on the tappet covers are aligned. For the record Packard built only 5 of those coupes. At something north of $8K it's no wonder though, huh? Enjoy...
I see the error of my ways so I am about to go clock my hydraulic lifters so the oil hole will be at 9 o'clock on the left side and 3 o'clock on the right side. Then I am going to clock all the push rods to 12 o'clock. Yeah, that's the ticket!
I always arrange my flat washers so that the hole is on the outside. I was going to check the alignment of the electrode on my spark plugs too, but I can"t seem to get this aluminum foil hat off.....
If it's spark plugs, that's called indexing and there's some power to be had there. If you need to remove the heads to check the plug index there's no help for you, the cart is In front of a dead horse.
I work at a VW dealership, when I put the centre caps on the wheels I always make sure the V points toward the valve stem although there are particular models that the hub cap locates on the wheelbolts and won't let the V line up. It drives me INSANE, the other guys at work think there's something wrong with me...... maybe there is?
For those that think torque is more important than clocking on a hose clamp, what torque do you use and what are your tolerances?
What you are talking about are cars that were coach built or at the very least not large run vehicles. I actually worked on an untouched Bently (also coach built) that nothing was clocked unless it was by accident. Odd for sure, it was from a French coach builder ( his name eludes me) and I would just about imagine he was like so many modern hot rod shops. The quality was lacking, and it showed in more places than the bolts and screws. When the resto was complete nothing was clocked the owner said that the judges would recognize the builder and that the car would loose points for the screws being clocked. Evidently the guy was an infamously well known builder. But you are right certain higher end cars were more meticulously built than your average ***embly line car.
There once was a lady from Nizes Who had breasts of two different sizes, One was so small, it was hardly at all But the other was large and won prizes
I usually go out of my way to not make things the same. My 48 Ford Mordoor has different year hubcaps on each wheel. My roadster has dice tube caps all different color. I mounted the motorcycle horn to the right of the grill and the license plate under the left taillight. I love the style of the off center Studebaker Avonti.
After reading all of this I almost feel normal. We've only owned three homes. In each one my head aims west when I'm in bed. For over 50 years finding the right site while camping was a *****. No further comments.
Clock non-torque critical fasteners window cranks and door handles so they clear leg up and down, match side-to-side, preferably 9-12-3 up, 3-6-9 down Flat washer always flat down Split washer always sharp edge toward the loosening head (I'm kidding, they always are!) tire lettering across the top, valve stem at 6 Hose clamps so they are easily removed/installed, with the screw section hidden if possible Belts with writing facing forward blade fuses all the same direction to be easy to read, round style with number out Gauges straight up EXCEPT race car, normal at 12 Fasteners front to back, nut on back, outside in, nut in unless this bothers removal/***embly Custom cut spark plug wires must allow cap removal without disconnecting, cross 5 and 7 on Mopars and Chevys. Cluster or individual gauges must also be able to be removed for access without disconnecting wires for testing. Zip ties, brake line clamps, adel clamps all spaced evenly. Lines also should be spaced. Someday, I'll build a T bucket and every fastener will have 3 threads showing after proper torque! You know you have gone too far if you hold a straight edge up to polished stainless Allen fasteners to make sure the internal flats align! You should have known when using the T-handle wrench!