So I shot the car today, used HOT ROD FLATZ Old Gold Metallic.... My opinion is....shit.... Went on like water,covered like shit and dried lighter than it went on. They say 2 wet coats....I got 4 on there and it still didn't hide the BUFF primer...I had a small spot of gray primer on there and it shows through as plain as day after 4 coats.... The color looks to be a shade darker than the primer I used and METTALIC??? fuck, not in my can, they must of forgot that part, non-exisitent......I could of saved a lot of headaches and just left it primed... Now an entire wet sand, re-seal and shoot it with some ppg base... Happy Day..... THERE COLOR "CHIP"
Looking at the pictures, I can't really tell the difference. I've used this stuff alot and it worked fine for me, but I only shot black so far. Metallic's never cover that well and an even base (primer) is important.
If I used any other color primer than buff, there would of been no way to cover it, like I said the small gray primed area I had...Is showing through like I never hit it with paint...
Wow, that does look like shit. Looks like it's got fill primer on it. The car looks decent enough, why not just paint it with some enamel and buff it out shiney? Enamel paint is cheap and looks nice. Or are you really wanting it to be flat?
I did the roof black base with red flake in the clear, I wanted to have the contrast between the gloss roof and the rest of the car
Looks like there is no mettalic. Two questions. First, since it doesn't look like there is any flake in it, didn't you notice/ask BEFORE spraying? Did you mix it right before? I knew a guy that shot a heavy mettalic, was bitching to me about the same thing. I went over to see in person and he had only shot 1/2 the gallon. Turns out the second half woulda been REALLY HEAVY because it had settled and he never mixed it.,,,,,,,,, and yea, it does look like mustard.
I noticed you are in NY. what was the temperature in your garage when you shot it? ? Did you adjust your flash times for the air temp? All of these things will affect the color your paint comes out.
I had it on my air mixer for 20 minutes, when I was pouring it, it looked good, if I coulndt get it mixed, I dont know how a guy with a stick could ever do it.
I haven't seen that color since my first kid was born. Looks like something that he left in his diaper.
Garage 75 degress,...used their brand Mid.Temp Reducer: 65 - 75°F Used my DeVILBISS GFG-670 PLUS gun with the 3m cups
Looking at your posted pictures, I can see what appears to be fades on all the edges and door jambs. I don't think you intended that. I think I would be disapointed also. Roll it outside and away from the florescent lighting, might look better?
I dont know if this matter when painting cars but as a hairstylist I know if i were to put a red down on light hair it will turn pink! with wanted deeper colors of paint would you put it on a darker primer?
I was thinking earlier...ok no biggie, Ill wet sand it out and at least I got a good base, because when it was wet, the color was off, but not that bad. But after it dried way lighter, I dont think I want to chance it again.....
most paint manufacturers i know of specify you should spray gold or silver metallics over a black base- it helps you to see if youve got even coverage as if youre spraying under artificial light, its harder to see a lighter/similar colour shining through in thin spots, prime example buff primer below gold as youve done, or silver over a light grey base. you should definately have the entire car ONE colour primer, not different bits different colours as the base/primer does effect final hue, especially with metallics. saying that, it still doesnt look like your paint has covered properly.
Even if you do call and bitch they wont do anything. There are 1 million reasons why it didnt come out right and not for one second will one of those reasons be them. They can blame you up and down, technique, gun settings, atmosphere conditions you'll never win against a big game company like that. Even on here were your friends and we question how you did the job. There's no way to tell for sure. Sorry to see/hear about it man. I'll think twice on my next job cuz it involves some Hot Rod Crapz.
Well, long ago I always said, never skimp when it comes to prep and chemicals for paint..... Should of listed to myself
I think you'll have to put some gold base that is close to the color you wanton first, I did a test panel with the Flatz pearl red and like you say it doesn't cover at all, I shot some dark red metalic base then the flatz, it came out OK. I stopped at the test panel, I may shoot base on it then go with PPG flat clear, but, if I fu** it up, aka runs or shit that has to be sanded it has to be re-shot, this fuc*in flat paint is a pain in the ass to get even, I might just paint my POS with single stage a call it good...have fun! Looks like you guys are getting some snow (under statement ) I heard some city up close to you is getting 6 to7 inches an hour, that's shit man..Good luck
I am gonna let you guys in on a "secret" flattening agent, used by many pros for many years. let's say that you needed a flat clear for the hood of a Hemi Cuda, or Boss 302. the stuff from the factory "dried up" several years later, the 80's were a particularly dark era for some of us. so what to do? you wanted flat, but all that was avalible was shiny? simple. most paint shops have thier own mixing systems-which lends alot to custom colors-and costly mistakes. sometimes, those mistakes turn out to be really,really good ones. for example. HOW TO FLATTEN PAINT. so you need a 2 gallons of paint (mixed) and you want it flat. you have a particular color in mind, but it does not come in flat. buy it as a base/clear system. you also buy a quart of color blender, and a quart of "binder"- it is a transparent base for most (if not all) of your paints. stick with a particular paint system (du pont, ppg, etc,etc.) spray the base the same as you normally would, and wet sand at the end for clear. when it comes time for clearcoat, substitute 1/3 (for semi) to 1/2 (for freakin FLAT) of the clear for the binder. mix acording to the directions on the can from there-just be sure to spray a couple of test panels before you get crazy on the car. you can sand and re-coat, but obviously, buffing is out of the question. if you can get it down with no orange peel, (over reduce it a touch.) presto! flat paint that holds up for freakin ever.
You can also put a little hardener in the base , takes a little longer to dry ,also works very good on bumpers, mouldings
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