Can I get some info on your olds to T5 set up? I'm leaning towards going that way with a 303 and T5, so I'd like to hear the story in more detail. Whose bell housing adapter is that (full kit from somewhere?)? Did you have to do a pilot busing adapter? Looks like you added a transition plate between the bell and the trans, was it a Ford pattern T5 and thus needs another adapter? Thanks in advance, I'm trying to sort it all out before spending the coin.
It has the cowl and some pieces of a 34 firewall.. the rest is 33 i will admit, I didn’t know that until after i got the car home and really studying it! Thanks for the info tho!
i have a wilcap adapter kit. It uses their pilot bushing. It’s a Camaro t5 with an s10 tail shaft. That’s a great thread on the differences, ill add that the 34s also had an indent to hold the hood at the top of the fire wall and 33 didn’t! I have a old wilcap kit, so it has been straight forward thankfully.
Starting to get the front sheet metal fitted, headlight stanchions and roof filler panel in. It’s looking like a car now, I think the stance and proportions are dialed!
Exciting update! Got the first engine fired up last night!! This solid roller 303 sounds down right pissed off! None of these engine I have were ever fired after being built in the 70s, so I wanted to make sure I didn’t run anything dry. I pulled the plugs on the 2 engines I’m planning on firing and soaked with a mixture of atf and marvels, also pulled the valley pan and squirted the same concoction down the hole, I let that soak for about 4 weeks then last week I drained and installed a new filter and 5w30. Last night I duct taped a 12mm socket to an extension and primed the oil pump, spun the motor 45° and repeated a handful of time, after that I pulled the valve covers and piled everything up, the cam, springs, rockers etc still had ***embly grease on them. After that I finished up oakie wiring my test stand dropped the distributor in and let her rip! Fired right up and ran BEAUTIFUL. No leaks except the water pump has a small drip out of the shaft, which I expected! I had Phil at mason ignitions rebuild 2 distributors for me, 1 with a br*** gear and fixed 20° of timing for the roller motor and another Mallory dual point for the other motor. Planning on firing up the second motor tomorrow! If you wanna hear the roller you can listen to it here on my instagram. https://www.instagram.com/p/CnqiYYIO7hI/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc=
This car is one bad mo fo!...so does this mean aside from a glider to visit in a museum you might have an adventure in your future searching for a 1932 Plane wreck?
I went down Thursday to drop the roller motor off so clay can set it into its final resting home! I brought down a few differnt options of headers and manifolds to see what’s going to work, it’s. Extremely tight squeeze on the front port against the hood. Another battle we are fighting is the lower radiator outlet, since the car is channeled to much my radiator sits very low, I wanted to stick with a big radiator to help keep this 303 cool. I picked up an old 9n ford tractor radiator in hopes to use the lower spout but it didn’t work out as well as I hoped. Clay contacted br*** works and they’re going to build us a custom piece to weld on. Sat in the car to mock up seat location, in these pictures im sitting on the floor board and we’re guessing my seat will sit around 6” total height from the floor. I’ve been waiting on a glide seat, they’re only a month behind on delivery so far . I’ve also decided to stick with the stock 4 barrel manifold for now, later down the road I’ll play with other manifold/carb combos on the test stand. I ended up running a Mallory Ignition 29219 coil, on the test stand and everything ran great, I will probably add a resistor in the car, so I don’t burn up the points, great looking coil too! For a fuel pump I decided on Walbro FRB13-2 - Walbro, I’m very pleased with this pump, simple and quiet and built to last, look them up if your in the market they’re built to last and QUIET! I also ordered up a clutch and pressure plate. I decided on all McLeod components. 11” street/strip clutch with their hydraulic throw out bearing. I’ve read mixed reviews on the hydro bearing but it seems like you just need to make sure they’re adjusted correctly. I had to do a little digging to make sure all the parts were correct, as my ****** is a little Frankenstein. It’s got a 5.0 mustang Input shaft, Camaro body, and s10 tail housing to move the shifter up. getting closer by the day and I couldn’t be more excited!
I’ve started down that path, haven’t made much progress yet but how damn cool would that be if I can find the wreck site!
so I got my hands on a set of Veda spec caps and I wanted to do something a little differnt with them since I’m running a set of 40 wheels instead of spokes. This is what I came up with, drilled out a set of 46 caps and bolted the vedas on. I think I will safety wire them to the wheels for some security. I measured about 78 times to make sure they are centered as close as I can get them, but I wanna make sure they are perfect because the aluminum is NOT light lol. I also thought about getting the wheels and tires balanced with them installed to help smooth it out, but we will see. Any ideas on how to perfectly center them? Hardware is obviously incorrect it’s just what I had laying around.
I will be interested in where this ends up. What were these caps originally used for? I like the look, but don’t know the history.
OK guys, I’m looking for some guidance… After talking to a couple different engine guys about my motor and cam specs, they all think even though the engine was running great on the test stand, but once it gets a load on it, that manifold is not gonna flow the CFM that I need. So I’m going to switch to a 3 x 2 set up what do you guys think is more reliable 97’s or Rochester 2G? I have a set of Rochesters that came off A j2 set up that need rebuild and I also have a few 97 laying around that need rebuilt. I know obviously a lot of people run 97’s, but I’m looking for purely reliability, I also have some Holly 94’s as an option. Car is going to see a ton of miles easy and hard, ranging in elevation…
Really? Do u have any supporting articles on this? I’m not doubting you, just interested in learning more! I did a search but didn’t see anything. Appreciate the help!
Attached is a page from the 1957 Edelbrock catalogue. Though now that I reference it again, maybe it's the OL396B that was designed for the Holly 94 and not the earlier OL396 (no B designation) manifold.
That would be amazing! Even if you don't would be some good times hiking/camping with your family!...one idea since you have family in the area would be to go talk to some of the old timers in the area...especially hunters or retired park/forestry people, guides... about odd wreckage or even just family stories about old wrecks etc. talk to the old country store owner or barber in the nearest town...bring a drone
HOLY ****!!!!!! How did I miss this????? Sorry, I don't have any info on your carb choices but I remain blown away with the work on this car. It seems a lot of 33-34s have been poppin up lately and yours is alot like mine. {avatar} I run a 57 Pontiac engine with a muncie close ratio 4 speed and a Winters quick change so it's similar to yours in that I received my engine with pop-up pistons, forged bottom end etc and built it from there. I'll be watching this build. BTW, my buddy, Tom is also putting together a ultra chopped 34, 3 window with a 303 Olds......was able to make TROG last year with the car.....blew 'em away! Your car reminds me of his in ways. Here's a photo of Tom's coupe. [came with a ton of local racing history.]
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