Projects Hotrod ford and a 2$ bill 3window

I like the 97's. Easy to work on and period correct in most cases. Tops can be removed while in service to check/set float levels and can be run for testing with them off which is a bit sketchy but has been done. And jet changes can be done without removing the entire carb from the engine since the body screws are facing up unlike the 2GC.

 

The J-2 carbs, properly rebuilt, will be much more reliable than the 97's and especially the 94's.

Are they 1957 or 1958 vintage?

Jon

 

Why can the jets not be changed on the Rochester without removing the carb(s) from the engine?

Jon

 

I meant to say the 94, good catch Jon

 

VTW - agree.

And I love the comment in your signature block, but doesn't that depend on the trap?

And to the OP and everyone else, apologies for the mild hijack!

Jon

 

Alright guys I decided to use these Rochester 2jets from a j2 setup with a offenhauser intake drilled for them.. I think I’ve got the progressive linkage figured out as well, thankfully I had a pile of old linkage to choose from and make up what I need. Not sure what I’ll run for air filters yet, maybe some scoops and screens.

 

My boss is getting a repro Mouse-trap made & are eagerly awaiting it's arrival! This yours? What's it going on?

 

So what the heck is that used for, and why is it called “Mouse Trap”?

 

After taking apart 2 other carburetors and modifying some parts, I’ve got them dialed in and ditched the vacuum operated choke and made a manual setup. Also got the progressive linkage setup and adjusted it works well on the bench. Outer carbs come on about 1/4-1/2 throttle and all go WOP at the same time. We will see how I did once it’s running. Heading down to Clays tomorrow to check in on my car and drop off my new glide seat along with the carbs, manifold, and fuel block.

 

Do the light test on those secondaries and see if you can see any light p***ing by the closed blades. If you can then you will have a vacuum leak and it will idle ****ty. I would get it running on the center first with block off plates on the outers then add each outer to see how it goes. Back in the day GM used a paint on material around the edges of the blades. Paint them, close them and let it dry then break them loose to provide a tight seal. ****ster used to offer it years ago. I have used it on one 348 tri power and it worked flawlessly and still is running great 10 years later.........

 

great info, i checked them but I didn’t use a light, ill see how they’re looking! Thanks!