I am trying to figure out the taper of a tie rod end. What is the best way to figure our if it is a 7 or 10 degree taper? Thanks Justin
measure it at two places and do a little math based on their distance apart i don't have the specifics or anything, i just know that's how you'd do it been too long of a day to think hard enough to remember that stuff
I did that but I am a math retard and can't seem to figure it out. Here are my measurements: Total length .713 top .480 bottom .554
If my memory is correct, a Ford tierod that is 7* is 1 1/2" taper over a foot. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong. Alot of shocks with a tapered "male" mounting has the same taper as a Ford tierod.
I came up with 6°, but you better have somebody double check me. It's been quite a while since school and my Trig is a little rusty.
Never mind the fancy math; take the simple approach...make a template.... cut 2 small straightedge strips of cardboard (bristol board).... hold one pc. on edge along the shank, the other along the taper portion... THEN staple the two pcs together where they lap and measure the angle with a protractor....KAPISH???????
Ok guys; one last way to determine the taper..... 1) use a bevel protractor and check the taper in the spindle hole...or: 2) take a straightened paper clip and bend it to match the taper in the hole and check angle of bent wire clip with a protractor....or... 3) put a piece of masking or sticky duct tape over the end of the female socket on the spindle end.....pour some molten wax into the hole and let it harden...then push out the wax plug and use an angle guage (bevel protractor) to measure it up... why is everyone stuck on FANCY math??? The most accurate way is by direct measurement anyhow...Don't any of you guys know how to use a protractor?
Do you have both pieces and are simply trying to determine if they are the correct taper for each other? If so, clean out the female taper, nice and dry, no oil. Same deal with the male taper. Rub a very thin coat of regular white blackboard chalk on the male taper. Insert male into female - yeah, I know there's a joke here, but get over yourself. Twist lightly, don't get carred away. Separate items. If the chalk is evenly removed on the male taper it's a match. If not.... ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I use this method to see if I'm cutting the proper taper for a MT2 arbor for the tailstock on my lathe. Works well.
why is everyone stuck on FANCY math??? The most accurate way is by direct measurement anyhow...Don't any of you guys know how to use a protractor?[/quote] What's wrong with a little "FANCY" math? If you know the dia at the top, the dia at the bottom, and the length of the taper, it's pretty easy to figure out. It's definetly not any less accurate than a protractor.
The "Fancy Math" relies on proper measurements, and as long as those are correct, then your results will be accurate. My sixth graders just learned how a protractor can cause misleading results, especially when the item they are measuring is smaller than the size of their protractor. What about heating the end and then 'sucking' down a worn out tie-rod end into the heated hole to create the proper taper? Of course, you'd have to make sure you got the thing out of the hole before everything cooled completely!
The Jalopy Journal
