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How dependable is a flathead?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mike Britton, Jul 16, 2012.

  1. rprice76
    Joined: Jun 4, 2011
    Posts: 441

    rprice76
    Member
    from Palominas

    I've "owned" three flathead powered cars in my life. Two were inherited from my father - bone stock 32 roadster and a 29 highboy - both of which I p***ed into more capable hands than mine - and one was in my HS daily driver (49 Ford F3).

    My dad bought his 32 Roadster in 1984. After her retired in 1989 he used to drive the 32 every day (as long as it wasn't raining) from 89 until 97 when he quit driving. The ONLY thing we had to do to the engine from 1989 until the car was sold in 2007 was new plug wires.

    As far as how it was driven - well - Dad drove it like a real car. We went on MANY 100+ mile trips around the state - my sis in the rumble seat - me next to dad.

    I drove the F3 to highschool every day for about a year (Junior year). The only reason I sold the truck was that "double clutching" that F3 got to be a pain.

    Enjoy the flathead!
     
  2. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,155

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN


    Can you hi-jack your own thread :D I suppose you can.

    It is very subjective as mentioned. Steel tube or cast iron headers, glaspaks, turbo, straights. Whats best? I guess what you like.

    I have 2" straights with 12" resonators (not sure if they do anything) turned out before the rear wheel. It's fairly loud when you open it up. But sounds great at idle. Not sure how much backpressure is needed or preferred for flatheads??? Haven't decided on which way to go with it but still want to turn it out before the rear tires, but make it quieter but not too quiet. :eek:
     
  3. jimbousman
    Joined: Jul 24, 2008
    Posts: 549

    jimbousman
    Member

    2" straight pipe + 12" resonators + dump before the rear wheels = loud! Before the rear wheels on a '47 cars means it's right under the rear floor. If you want to get rid of the drone at higway speeds suggest you run the pipes out the back and longer mufflers...and...forget any turndowns at the end. That will just resonate off the road surface. A nice set of Porters, Smithys, or Brockman's would sound nice.
     
  4. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,155

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Not to highjack this thread myself... They turn out p***ed the running boards, not turned down under the truck, leaving it exhausting under the vehicle. And yes it's the right amount of loud, well maybe a little too much with throttle. No drone.

    Had gl***paks at one point didn't notice a difference.
     
  5. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,847

    1pickup
    Member

    On the exhaust debate: I have Speedway econo headers w/ 2" pipe out the back, no mufflers on my '39 w/ '53 Merc flatty. Sounds great, not too loud.
    Stock manifolds, dual pipes out the back, & 2 different length & very old steel packs on my '49 Merc (came that way). Sounds good when you're behind the car, a little quiet though.
    On the reliability issue: if you spend $8000 on a new professionally rebuilt engine, $2000 on a T5 & adapter, $1000 on a new aluminum radiator, $3000 on installing a newer rear end & suspension, $2000 on a MII front suspension, etc., etc.... then you might be half as reliable as a SBC. On the other hand, if you don't mind a car that can't idle for more than 5 minutes without overheating, or can't get parts for at the local stores, or that you never plan to drive over 45mph because even with OD, it revs too high. Or, if you plan to never drive it out of town. Or, when you decide to rebuild one yourself, you have to buy 13 blocks before you find a rebuildable core, then hell yes! keep the flathead.
    I have two. One has had everything done to it possible, & it will not cool. The other will heat up if you let it idle too long, but seems OK if you keep moving. So, I guess I'll just keep moving w/ that one, & look for block #14 for the other
     
  6. jimbousman
    Joined: Jul 24, 2008
    Posts: 549

    jimbousman
    Member

    Let me add one more carrot to the stew. In 1966 I bought a 1949 Ford tudor for $50 bucks. It had 120,000 on the clock which is a ton for a car that age. The compression was to low it only idled on six out of eight. Give'er some gas and the other two would eventually catch up. As clapped out as that engine was it huffed and puffed and got me though a 60 mile round trip commute for three summers and three Wisconsin winters. Never overheated and never failed to start even on a old VW 6volt battery.
    Will they tear up the road in a fat fendered car? No. Are they more expensive to rebuild? Yes. Can you get parts for them on the road? No. (But then try to buy something for a nailhead) But they'll run alright. Go for it!
     

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