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How do I get the hubs out of my '40 drums?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Harrison, Sep 7, 2003.

  1. Harrison
    Joined: Jan 25, 2002
    Posts: 7,133

    Harrison
    Member

    A good whack with a BFH didn't do the job.

    Thanks, JH
     
  2. lakes modified
    Joined: Dec 2, 2001
    Posts: 1,283

    lakes modified
    Member Emeritus

    Well you tried my tech. method. might try some heat, then penetrating oil once it's cooled off. then back to the BFH i.e the 5 lb kind.i know it worked for me. good luck.
     
  3. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,581

    manyolcars

    they made 2 kinds of drums. one is one piece. It aint coming apart. The other type is obviously 2 piece. R U sure watcha got? Why take the hubs out of the drums anyway?
     
  4. Missing Link
    Joined: Sep 9, 2002
    Posts: 865

    Missing Link
    Member

    Are you taking the hubs off the drums or the drums off a rear axle? If you are removing just the drum from the axle you will need to get yourself a hub puller. I purchased one from JC Whitney and the quality is nice.
     
  5. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,566

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Make yourself a fixture that will screw onto your threaded stud at the hub. This fixture is a piece of metal with a threaded hole the same depth as the exposed threads on the hub.Screw this bad boy onto the stud but not against the hub surface. Make sure the axle is off the ground on both sides. Now hit it the fixtue with a BFH, this jars the tapered axle away from the hub surface. If you decide to go with a hub puller, get the type that will fit onto the wheel studs/ The studs are attached onto the drums on these and not the axle.
     
  6. Here's a pic of a home-made puller.
    Bolts are shown since it's being used on a Plymouth in this pic.
    It's also capable of being set up with shorter bolts and fine thread nut couplers that thread onto wheel studs.

    That's a 1" bolt in the middle.
    The 2" square tubing has 1/4" walls.

    Make sure you protect the axle threads with the axle nut turned backwards and screwed part way on.

    Once you crank it up as far as you dare, apply a little heat to the hub and it will pop loose with no problems.

    This puller is also set up to take an 8 ton bottle jack.
    Longer bolts between adapter flange and the 2" square tubing are required.
    Keep the jack reservoir oriented to to the top if you set it up for a jack.

    Regardless, the 1" bolt puts out as much or more pull than does the 8 ton jack as far as I can tell.

     

    Attached Files:

  7. Here's a pic of the puller in use.
    Make a point to oil the 1" bolt & nut a bit to cut the friction down.

    We call the puller, "Mongo."

    Mongo pull anything....
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Here's Mongo in his disassembled state with all the extra pieces to use the bottle jack and adapt to other things.

    Mongo came out to be a nice looking project.
    I am fortunate to have access to a lathe.

    There's no reason a flame cut piece of round stock with drilled or flame cut holes for the wheel studs couldn't be used.

    A little grinding and Mongo be pretty....
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Harrison
    Joined: Jan 25, 2002
    Posts: 7,133

    Harrison
    Member

    Someone removed my hubs from the drums and drilled the hubs and drums for a Chevy bolt pattern. I could drill through the original bolt holes in the hubs and through the drums but I'd like to take them apart, rotate them back to the original holes and use them without drilling any more holes in them.

    Thanks, JH
     

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