how do I remove 'one-shot' sign paint lettering???

Sorry guys that this isn't a hotrod, but here are the pics anyway AFA what I am dealing with. This bike is in for total teardown/restoration. This is original factory paint which is rare for this color and for this year bike (long story if you don't GAS about Harley Panheads especially the '65 Pans).

Anyway I do have another set of sheet metal (original rare pieces) that I am going to use for repaint, but pulling these originals until I can figure out how to remove that striping.

Pretty, isn't it? :-(











Ray

 

DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!! I've used the easy off methods many times with great success, but only on urethane base/clear paint jobs. The premise is simple. Easy off eats enamel (thats what 1 shot is) but doesn't eat cataylized urethane. If it's an enamel paint job, it's going to eat on it just like it will the pinstriping. I have seen what happens when it's tried on enamel and laquer paint jobs, it ain't pretty. Of course, you can try it on an inconspicuous area as mentioned, but I really doubt it will work on a paint job that old, it's undoubtedly enamel or laquer. And of course, while 1 shot has been used forever, there were other products out there like dager-laq (a laquer based striping paint) so who knows what it is. Also a word to the wise, the easy off will reak havoc on chrome and polished aluminum, so be careful with it, no sense having to polish anything more than you have to. In the end, I'm afraid that your probably looking a buffing it off, but that carrys it's own hazzards. Good luck!

 

Easy Off Oven Cleaner

 

I too have used EasyOff many times on my Peterbilts and other vehicles with absolutely no issues. Sign guy that told me gave me two mandatory instructions: 1. be in the shade 2: don't leave it on for very long, if it takes 5 applications, fine

 

Thanks for the warning LT.

The underlying paint is baked factory enamel circa 1965. No top/clear coat. Probably PPG paint. Guess we'll skip the EZ off in this case. Or simply experiment as one possible method perhaps on the tail section of the rear fender or the front half of the rear fender under the seat. A few other methods recommended were some enamel dryer on a rag, perhaps some enable thinner, and then another was a cloth dampened with acetone.

 

DO NOT USE ACETONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If that is enamel you have some very pretty metallic blue rags and a VERY unhappy owner!One of enamels virtues was when it was fully cured it had a very hard(but thin)outer skin that required very little in the way of maintenance as opposed to the lacquer paints of the time.The problem is that if you disrupt that outer shell,the exposed under paint is still relatively soft and deteriorates rapidly when exposed to UV radiation.This is why buffing of enamel isn't recommended.
Using acetone on that would be like using paint stripper which usually has an acetone component along with MEK and several other vile chemicals.
My best guess is if it has been on that long,you are looking at stripping to bare metal,acid etching,and complete repaint.1-Shot and other enamel based striping paints will actually etch the surface of the metal ;penetrating the overlayer of paint.
Here is a picture of a stainless steel fender skirt off my Safari that I had stripe flamed and let set for about two years.I decided to change the design a bit so I stripped the paint off using commercial paint stripper and a gray scuff pad.I then polished the skirt with mag wheel polish and a buffer.Even after all that you could still see remnants of the original design etched into the stainless.

 

Thanks for the info/warning regarding trying acetone. Interesting post regarding the etching down to the metal underneath.

 

any way how to get it off of primer

 

Apply more primer?

 

I use Easy-Off

Word of wisdom.
Use gloves or your fingernails will turn brown.
"Been There, Done That"

Brown fingernails don't hurt but the creep other people out.

I also use a Bondo spreader to crape with.

 

You just aint a shittin' Del, I'm going back to Rustoleum.

EZ Off in the yellow can, tape off around whatever it is you want to remove or spray it on a rag and dab it on. May take a couple times to get it all off if it's really on there. After it's off wash it down with Windex or water, make sure you get it ALL off or it will keep on working. It may take a little of the shine off so hit it with a buffer.

Another little trick to get 1-Shot off of plex-e glass or change something on a plex-e glass show sign...tape off the lettering or stripes you want removed, and put a little DOT 3 brake fliud on a paper towel and rub, takes it right off and it wont hurt the plastic. Be VERY CAREFUL you dont get any on any other painted surface becouse it will take that paint off to! Wipe it with a couple clean towels and then remove the tape and wipe the area again, then hit it with Windex.

 

I just finished removing the old pinstriping I did on the back of my tacoma last night. used the easy off method. rinsed thouroughly after each application with plenty of water. took about 10 applications because i was really careful about leaving it on for only a couple of minutes then wiping it off (not scraping) but it did a great job.

 

my car is red with clear coat satin finish did you think the easy off method work ! want to remove lettering !

 

Just to add to my post count, EZ off, the nasty smelling kind.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgD9SJ_7Cto

 

My procedure is to spray some EZ off into the cap, take a Q-tip and apply it to just the striping or letters, enough to stay wet. Let set for a couple of minutes, use a non scratch scouring pad that you can get at a Dollar store, rub striping. Have a spray bottle of water and dampen a paper towel, wipe off oven cleaner and then spray it liberally with water, catching any drips. Repeat until all gone. Better to do several tries than do too much.

This saves the surrounding surface by not spraying that crap all over. If you just apply to the striping it will attack that first. If you know the surface is plain enamel, be very careful. Basecoat, clear coat or factory finish , no problem.
Warn customer about problems and let them decide.