Here's my problem. I want to save the old banjo steering wheel on my Austin project, but the outter wheel is so sunbaked and shrunk that it's actually split and the metal round stock is exposed! It's also got some serious sliver problems that might be bad when I drive it. I thought maybe I could use epoxy or some type of resin to coat it all, and then cut the bad part out and just build it new from more epoxy? Just not sure what methods would be best. Here's the wheel:
I've repaired two wheels worse than that with JB Weld. The secret is to get the loose crap out, V the edges of the slots or damage, and get any rust off the steel ring.
Rock a billy just gave you all the answers you need ,Ill show you one I did for practice and sold....Wasn't worth the time ,I did it for practice ...Custom 40 ford wheel .I have one more to do .But thats for me.....This time Im leaving the ribs.......And to answer your question Jb weld ,Bodyfiller ,fiberglass hair and laquer primer ,nitrostain ,Or could use icing and epoxy primer and paint ,Like Rockabilly said media blast the steel thats what split it in the first place......
its academic at this point, but the crack came first then the rust, you can't get moisture to the metal unless there is a path to it, ie, a crack. then it all starts downhill fast, the rust causes the metal to swell due to delamination and that pushes the plastic type shit off allowing more moisture and then and then etc.....jerry
I would cut and remove the twisted part of your wheel .Not the steel but the rim ring and sandblast and then reinstall you could remove by grooving it longways and or cutting it apart ,Youll have to reattach it ,So be carefull ,That wheel can be saved ,It takes many hours of work ,But be patient ,I showed you my wheel .That was the first one I ever did ,Sold it for a 100 and paid less than 20 for it ,It was trash ,After v grooving the hub was in 2 peices .8 to 10 hours later ,It looks like new ,Paint needs to be rubbed ,No sandscratches and nice quality ,Its close to being a show wheel .....
Jerry is right the crack starts first and I think these wheels are bakelite .They have a nasty odor when you sand them......
Golf ball glue!!! That is what we called PC-7 when every parts store used to have one of these on the counter. It's a 2 part epoxy paste that can be shaped before it sets. I use a hacksaw blade to clean and widen any thin cracks. Get rid of any loose pieces and get down to the steel hoop. Get the rough shape with a file and then sand it to finish. PC-7 sands exactly like the original wheel so feather edging is easy. It comes in black and white. They would tell you to put it on the floor and stand on the step. The bottle still has water in it even though the food coloring has bleached out.
I redid my 39 banjo. I first took a dremil tool and ground out the cracks to open them up and smooth the cracks out. then I bought some two part epoxy clay putty that is used for scalpting. It dries rock hard and it is easy to work with and sand. I got the natural color. I will attach a link. Sand it then wet sand it then prime then epoxy paint. Then you are all done. http://www.clayalley.com/apoxie.htm
Just did a 64 Impala wheel with a lot of cracks. Ground and filed away the bad areas and applied PC-7 two part epoxy that I got at True Value hardware for $10. Let it harden over night and then filed and sanded the wheel. Primed it and it looks like a factory fresh wheel.
My whhel has no bakelite left at all will pc-7 work to start from raw and if i make a mold would that work????????????
Man those wheels all turned out great guys! I'm going to go get some two part epoxy tomorrow and give it a try. Thanks for all the great posts and pictures! I'll post some pictures when I get it finished!
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