As above, galv fasteners are like crude DIY quality things here. But I've stripped galv off Land Rover parts by dunking them in citric acid. Very cheap and not as dangerous as others. They fizz and the galv is soon gone. Not sure what the gas is, been told it's hydrogen, but I let it do its thing outdoors, just in case
even grade 5 is zinc plated.... And most of what i need is a TON of nuts to be welded in for floor and trunk pans to screw to my 1/2"x1/2" substructure. I'm not a fan of rivnuts either
We cut galvanized metal all day long on a plasma table(sheet metal shop). It is exhausted but you still get some in the air. Only thing have ever heard is it will give you a headache if you breathe enough in.... But kill ya? I doubt it, think of all sheet metal shops burning galvanized metal all day long.
Don't mess with Galv. It'll take you out long after you stop thinkin bout it. "Welders flu","metal fume fever" or whatever name you wanna call it, spells bad news. Basicly your goin to feel like you had a heat stroke and somebody beat ya with a baseball bat. The boys that weld on galv wear some serious breathin protection and it ain't cheap. If your gonna strip it use somethin natural like vinegar and put it outside in the air. Good luck, sometimes it pays to just get the right fasteners from the beginning.LB
True (hot dip) galvanized hardware is the dull grey stuff that's usually used for outside applications such as fencing, radio towers, ski lifts, etc. ;-) Grade 2-8 hardware is usually zinc chromate plated, which is electroplated zinc followed by chrome. The plating can be dyed to either give the clear look ( grade 2 to 5), green (grade 5 at tractor supply) or yellow (grade 8).
muriatic acid available at most hardware stores used for cleaning brick then naturalize in water and baking soda. do it outside when through with acid, pour the acid in a larger container of water use caution where you dump it. pour in on dirt it will get it neutral again.
What size nuts and bolts do you need?.I'll go to my local hardware store, buy them and mail them to ya. then you can reimburse me. That's what the HAMB is for..don't fart around stripping something that costs a few cents....to do muriatic acid right it'll set you back $20.00 MINIMUM (That's if you've already got the rubber tub) and then take for ever and may eat your bolt completely or damage it to the point where a few months down the road it snaps. Grade 5 1/4 20s are $5.00 a box of 100 at Bolt depot. $5 for nuts and $2 for washers, $12.00 and you've saved your health your sanity and maybe even your bolts.
Having worked in body repair and fabrication for 45+ years, I've welded and ground off my share of galvanized metal. I usually try to grind the area I'm going to weld because it welds like ****. It will give you a headache and make you queasy if you breath to much of the fumes. Just try to stay out of the fumes and use a small fan to blow the fumes at the exhaust fan or do it outside if possible. If you get any of the symtoms, get fresh air as quickly as possible to minimize the symptoms, drink some milk, sounds stupid but it works. The calcium in the milk helps flush the zinc/lead content from your system. Usually works pretty fast. I've had no lasting ill effects, but I'm sure it does happen. Some people seem to be affected more than others. As always, try to work safely with any material that has health side effects.
I had an old timer tell me that if you weld galvanized, the fumes would eat the enamel off your teeth. When we did use galvanized (stock cars on a budget...) we'd grind/sand off as much as possible. The arc would still be a weird color green though. Bob
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