how do U remove windshield & molding from 46-48 chevys

..i have the gl*** out,front and rear gl***(i cut the seal and removed them from the inside) the entire time i was thinking there has to be an easier way cuz this doesnt seem right!,..was chevy that messed up back then,or am i a dumb***??

.., the gl*** is out and the molding is still on the car,,it has seperate rubber backing holding it in,but i wasnt sure if i need to cut this out as well???(is it replacable???)
......its not like the common type of window seal..

thanks in advance and merry CHRISTmas!

 

this is what im talking about...weird..
i KNOW i can get it out,,but my main question is,,,i wanna know if im gonna ruin something if i DO cut out the other seal...mainly thinking of the fututre when the gl*** goes back in,,..thanks!

later!!

 

i cut it perpendicular to the pinch weld and pop the gl*** out with the mouldings attacted as a unit to avoid bending trim up.

HTH

 

oh yea, if i remember right, most GMs got those tiny little nuts that you gotta take out first.

 

[ QUOTE ]
i cut it perpendicular to the pinch weld and pop the gl*** out with the mouldings attacted as a unit to avoid bending trim up.

HTH

[/ QUOTE ]

you've done 46-48 chevy's right? ...cuz what you just said pertains to about everything ive ever worked on,,but this seems totaaly different...

 

you have to carefully pry it apart where the joint is, and work it off from one end to the other. Mineral spirits help, squirt it behind the trim to loosen the rubber up, and let it slide off. It's a real PITA. then you have to get all the rubber out of the trim strip. You can buy the "correct" replacement rubber, but the fit is for ****, I use the standard rubber, and use a seperate piece of rubber to seal the trim strip back in place. Maybe Steel's rubber fits better, never tried his.

 

Try this website http://1946_54chevys.250free.com/46fisher.htm
Its an online fisher body manual, not much better then a haistings but better then nothing, I think when I get to that part on my 48 sdn dlvry I'll have 48HEMI do it for me. good luck and Merry Christmas

 

I've replaced a few back gl***es in those cars and the inside molding actually holds the gl*** against the rubber to seal it. Just take out the molding attaching screws and push the window inside the car from the outside. Then, like enjenjoe says, work around the stainless molding to remove it from the steel body lip. I have a flexible polypropylene prying tool for gl*** work that helps me keep from denting/bending the stainless molding.
The Steele rubber worked ok for the back window of my 50 chevy sedan delivery.

 

cool,thanks guys,...much apreciated!

later
sam

 

theres some good info on that site , wonder if there is something simular for 40, I am going to be doing the same thing to my 40 only V ****ing the windsheild.

 

**** if you need any info from steele rubber let me know. it's only about 15 miles from my house and it's the area where we are currently house hunting so i'm usually over there at least once a week. their stuff has been superior to other folks that i've seen so far and the price is usually not bad either...ken....

 

[ QUOTE ]
Try this website http://1946_54chevys.250free.com/46fisher.htm
Its an online fisher body manual, not much better then a haistings but better then nothing

[/ QUOTE ]

Do they have a page for 46 chevy trucks?

 

bttt....

 

SNW If you are looking for chevy info try this site
http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/ubbthreads.php
Most any chevy info you need can be found on that site somewhere, it just takes awhile to learn your way around it! Plus it take time away from reading the H.A.M.B.

 

thanks again guys,i removed the moldings last night and it was "simple" now that its was explained.. too bad i had to screw up all the seals in the process BEFORE i thought to ask HOW!

later,
sam