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How do you attain a ballistic paint job?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by motormaniac, Feb 8, 2004.

  1. motormaniac
    Joined: Oct 31, 2002
    Posts: 186

    motormaniac
    Member

    Hello Guys and Girls,

    I have a question for you paint savvy folk. It has been a few years since I squirted paint and I just cannot do things the way I use to. I use to use the good old leaded DP, a Standox base coat, and top it off with Sikkens AutoClear. Well I have used the LF DP and I don’t care for it but I’m dealing. What I am in search of is a paint system like what I’m use to that’s going to be rather ballistic and give me the piece of mind to know it will hold up for a while. I am also in search of a ballistic single stage paint to spray over the good old DP. Any suggestions, pointers, warnings, or interesting stories are very welcome. I am gearing up to a bunch of projects this year most of them mine but some of them are for others and those are the ones I’m most concerned about. Thanks everyone!
     
  2. 40StudeDude
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 9,562

    40StudeDude
    Member

    NO paint expert here...but I don't thik there's a single stage anything out there any more...
    And WHY did you not like DPLF? Is it simply becuz it's a two stage? It's damn good as a sealer...I've never had any problems with it...I use PPG's NCP250 primer over it...fills scratches, sands wonderfully...
    R-

    PS...your "cuss marx" just don't work as numbers...to hard to read...try something else...or quit cussing!
     
  3. burtrido
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 233

    burtrido
    Member

    Try the Ballistic Paint Shop! [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  4. Huh? Kinda hard to follow your post. If you want to swear just fucking swear. It'll make your post a lot fucking clearer. None of these cocksuckers really care. [​IMG] Ballistic? You looking for an exploding paint?
    As for the DPLF, I don't use it much anymore. Not as tuff as the old DP.
    I've gone to self etch with K36 over it. I mix the 36 as a surfacer when needed, or mixed as a sealer if I don't need to fill.
    As far as paint, I like PPG. Single stage or BC/CC. All of the major brands make good product, so it's mostly personal preferance.


    Studedude. Single stage refers to non clear coated paint, catalized or not.
     
  5. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,869

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA

    hey I thought he was talking about some new House Of Kolor brand paint... haha.

    The next new FAD
    Kameleon is getting kicked to the curb.

    To attain... just reach for a thick wallet... and pay someone time and materials!

    Tuck
     
  6. motormaniac
    Joined: Oct 31, 2002
    Posts: 186

    motormaniac
    Member

    Those were not cuss words they were suppose to be apostrophes. That was odd.

    I think DP is the greatest and continue to use it but it just does not spray as well as the original stuff.

    I have a question for you paint savvy folk. It has been a few years since I squirted paint and I just cannot do things the way I use to. I use to use the good old leaded DP, a Standox base coat, and top it off with Sikkens AutoClear. Well I have used the LF DP and I dont care for it but Im dealing. What I am in search of is a paint system like what Im use to thats going to be rather ballistic and give me the piece of mind to know it will hold up for a while. I am also in search of a ballistic single stage paint to spray over the good old DP. Any suggestions, pointers, warnings, or interesting stories are very welcome. I am gearing up to a bunch of projects this year most of them mine but some of them are for others and those are the ones Im most concerned about. Thanks everyone!
     
  7. JimC
    Joined: Dec 13, 2002
    Posts: 2,243

    JimC
    Member
    from W.C.,Mo.

    Ballistic paint job?
    Does not start with paint or the spraying of paint, type or color.

    Starts with a lot of sanding, filling, and more sanding and filling.

    Then, after the filling sanding, primering, sanding and filling, you are ready to spray paint.
    Does not make any difference whidh paint or oaint system you use, it is the amount of color sanding and buffing after the spraying.

    The better you can use the paint gun, the easier the color sanding is.

    it is not really difficult to remove runs, a razor blade will knock the big ones down to sanding size.

    Jim
     
  8. OK, maybe I'm just slow. WTF is a ballistic paint job?
     
  9. JimC
    Joined: Dec 13, 2002
    Posts: 2,243

    JimC
    Member
    from W.C.,Mo.

    Tinbender, tinbender, at your age, you still do not know what a ballistic paint job is?

    well, you did one on the mailbox i have in my possession?

    It is my assumption it is a superlative that may mean a really nice paint job.
     
  10. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,869

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA

    JIMC
    dude... I color sand with the DA/ and water... 1200 to start

    then use a trizac pad with water on the D/A

    then buff... with 3M's new compound its BAD ASS. I just color sanded the front clip of a car in just over a hour this morning...

    by hand it would've taken half the day.

    Tuck
     
  11. flt-blk
    Joined: Jun 25, 2002
    Posts: 4,941

    flt-blk
    Member
    from IL

    I thought ballistic refered to a tough surface resistant to
    scratches and chips, as in "Bullet Proof". Rustoleum type.

    Does anybody still use single stage to paint a car anymore,
    I thought all the good paints were BC/CC systems.
    TZ
     
  12. JimC
    Joined: Dec 13, 2002
    Posts: 2,243

    JimC
    Member
    from W.C.,Mo.

    Tman, that's why you are "Wannabe Old Schooler"[​IMG]

    Got to put some labor into it.

    2000 grit or nothin.

    I do sometimes use a da, but not on the finish snding.

    Jim
     
  13. motormaniac
    Joined: Oct 31, 2002
    Posts: 186

    motormaniac
    Member

    ballistic: refered to a tough surface resistant to
    scratches and chips, as in "Bullet Proof".

    This is what I am looking for. I know how to create beautiful paint. I know what it takes for flawless paint and I thank everyone for the advise. What I want to know is if I use a modern system that its going to last 10-20 years. What do the pro painters use here on the HAMB? Im not talking rattlecans here, I want quality and I know that those paints cost money. Like I said the last gallon of clear I purchased was Sikkens AutoClear. This is no longer so what is comparable?
     
  14. Dupont still makes your basic spray it on and don't cover it up with clear enamel. Its not catilized, just reduce it and blow it on.
    I think I still got 2 or 3 gallons that a friened gave me a couple of years ago when he was moving to Texas.
    You could probably go to MACO (sp) and by some cheap crap from them also. Blow you last coat on wet to the point of sagging. Then leave it alone for a couple of days. Roll it out the door and let you friend? pay you.
    You'll have a couple of months to get out of town before it goes to crap (C*&%^$#@!?).
    If you want really suave (cool word hugh), deep, and durable, Color Coat/Clear Coat is the only way to go.
    And yes the newer clear is a little harder to spray. it wants a good clean room, and moving air.
    Get your self an old carhood, and practice before you blow it on the car. Blow enough on to sand all the mistakes out, and go to work.
    I guess your other option is to buy a whole bunch of One Shot. I think you can put it on with a roller. [​IMG]
     
  15. JimC
    Joined: Dec 13, 2002
    Posts: 2,243

    JimC
    Member
    from W.C.,Mo.

    Otay, Butwheat, now we are getting someplace.
    I use Spies-Hecker skin out.
    Tough as boot nails.
    The pic attached shows paint finished in Jan 1997 and as viewed last June.
    It has had grinder dust on it and various trips through the hiway sludge.


     
  16. [ QUOTE ]
    Those were not cuss words they were suppose to be apostrophes. That was odd.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    That happens sometimes when you write in a word processing program and do the copy and paste bit to an Internet site.

    If you're using Word for example, you may find WordPerfect does better.
    I use WP on long documents pasted to the HAMB and it works well.
    Other sites, they do the same trick that happened to you.

    What you can do is preview the post, correct and then post it.
     

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