How do you get a broken bolt out of an aluminum intake?

I'm don't know of any SBC intakes that have a bolt for an alternator bracket.

 

Build a smelting furnace and get it to about 2000F. Drop the intake into the furnace. You might lose the temper on the broken bolt but at least you can salvage what's left of it after the aluminum melts off.

 

I'm stoked to see I'm not the only one who doesn't think easy outs are the answer. I have had multiple people tell me "I get stuff out with them all the time" When they say that I say "Man, I can NEVER get them to work. Can you show me?" I usually let them try for 5 minutes, or until they break the easy out. They always go "huh thats never happened" and I think to myself "Of course its never happened, thats the first time you used those fucking things". So far my record is 5-0 on betting against easy outs.

 

I like the weld the washer and nut on method best if you have access, and have had best results in letting it cool to ambient if you have the time. That being said, I have removed a lot of broken bolts and studs over the yrs. with the good quality square easy outs with a taper, and have never broken one yet. If you are constantly breaking them you need to work on your skills, and not blame the tool.

 

soon to follow, "best way to heli-coil my manifold." won't the aluminum expand more than the steel bolt anyways so heat should help....or am I assed backwards?

 

Early ones usually don't, Later ones usually do

 

,,,another 2 cents worth,,,,where possible,,drill a small hole, 3/32, into the casting at the broken bolt, squirt in some Blaster or similar stuff before welding,,,,

 

I have had good luck by using a HSS lathe cutting bit rather than an easy out. Simply grind a slight taper on all four sides on one end and drive it into a CENTERED hole and turn it out! But I usually use the washer and nut method when a welder is handy.

 

I usually have to drill them out, someone mentioned using a left hand drill bit and I have done that with good sucess. Something else that I have done in the past is to drill and tap a broken bolt with left hand treads and then thread a left handed bolt into them. Then once you bottom the new bolt out it is like worrying any stick bolt out, patience and determination.

Any bolt that is threaded into aluminum should use anti-sieze. A lot of the fellas are using the new teflon stuff, I still use the old fashoined copper stuff.

 

Wow,great response! Thanks for all the input! I went to my buddy Dennis' place today and he welded a washer and nut on the bolt and had to heat the manifold a bit and it came out.

 

The welded nut, lh drill methods are good. Easy out not so much. Anti-sieze is your friend with dissimilar metals and stainless fasteners. For rusted bolts in steel or cast iron heat bolt to cherry red with welding torch then cool quickly with water in a squirt bottle. The expansion breaks the rust lose and the fast cooling shrinks the bolt.

 

I have ground regular drill bits with the cutting face as a LH. I drill a smaller hole in the bolt first to give the LH bit something to bite into and as long as the bolt is not too tight it should grab and spin out.