Right now Mine is clamped together ,I want something that looks cleaner ,,,, just trying to tie the two rears together ,,,
Not sure what you mean. Here's the way I routed Lokar cables to the floor hand brake lever on a current build. I adapted a Pinto ebrake by not using the Lokar clevis. Subs***uted a threaded rod.
My set up is .......From the car one cable,And then goes to a u clip off an early mustang and then to the rear both cables ,I need to join the two cables together ,
Hi ... Weld braize ..make shure you acid wash it for a good weld as cable has oil in between the strands
Thanks I was just wondering what the best way was,I didnt think a crimp would hold and the cable clamp is ugly ,Now the next question arc or mig ,
I'd do a junkyard search and find something the factorys used. There should be tons of them from rear drum cars. Here's a pic of my stock 66 Mopar rear setup. Check the bracket on the right. The dual cables are not stock (rear discs) but every thing else is factory drum setup.
I used cold rolled steel rod about 3/8" long, and drilled a hole thur the center the size of the cable. Hit it with a hammer fairly hard to crimp it to the cable. Have been using the cable/crimped ends for 10 years or so and has never slipped. I use my E-brake(OK parking brake) every time I shut it off.
two 3/8"blocks say1" square,drill in centre of the 1" square,then bolt it to gether,drill two holes through the blocks the size of the cable and then from other end drill the size of the ****on. the result is two blocks with slots to accept cables and a bolt to hold it together. or drill a thick solid block,then saw it in half.the saw cut would be enough relief to lock onto cables if hole is right size. i would draw a picture,but i lost my crayons.....
I'd start out that way, but I'd push the cable through a little and then hit that cable end with your mig on high, then join both ends together with factory clips .
Here is a post I did a couple of years ago: You may get to the point in your build where you need to add or fix the parking brake system on your car. There are kits that allow to buy cables and kits, but I like using junkyard parts. I usually end up with a cable that is too long, so here are a couple of pics on how I attach the ends to a cable that is too long and has been cut: I cut a 1/4"-3/8" long slug of 3/8" diameter rod, a piece of 3/8" grade 5 bolt works great because it can be easily cut with a hacksaw. I next drill a 3/16" hole through the middle of it: The cable is clamped in a vise, and the "slug" is placed on top of it with the cable flush or slightly below the level of the slug. The hole is drilled a little bigger than the cable to allow the weld to penetrate: With the MIG welder, I give it one nice burst on the open end of the slug which welds the cable strands to the slug: The finished cable looks factory and is very strong:
http://www.wesconproducts.com/ Maybe some consideration for guys that custom build cables with Wescon's products. The source that I know is Drivetrain Spe******ts in Odessa TX. Many more use these products across the country.
I tried your technique after reading your post a couple of years ago...seemed like a great solution. Maybe I had greater leverage, but the 3/16 cable failed just in front of the slug...fortunately not while needing an "emergency brake", but just while parking.
You dont weld or braze. Get a new one mede to length , they are as cheap as . Get them crimped up by a pro. Remember its an E brake so it doesnt want to be an "Oh **** " brake when it fails.
So very TRUE ! Now if you are using a early Mustang set up , they used a single cable and attached to both rear brakes . The the single front cable from the E brake was attached to a bar that was attached to the crossmember . The the other end of the bar was attached to the rear brake cable . Not in-between the the E brake or rear brake cable was a threaded rod that was in between the cable and that shaft and that was used to adjust the e brake . I am not sure if you get that idea but that is how the early Mustangs had their E brake set up . Really very simple and easy to make work on just about any hot rod out there . I would draw a picture but don't know how to do it and post it . You probably could find the set up on the internet someplace I am sure of . Still about the easiest E brake to make and works well . Retro Jim
Four cable clamps 2 on each side (180 degrees to each other work) for me, if anyone cares to crawl under my car and look they are welcome to. I gave up caring what others think about me a long time ago. I do the job and move on to the next task life is to short to spend solving non existant problems.
this is how I've been welding all sizes of cable for 45 years. if you want to splice a cable ...just do this to both ends and then weld them together. there is NO OH ****!! it works. I laugh all the time here on the HAMB when someone gives you a fix to your situation and the naysayrs say nope gotta throw money at it or its no good
I needed to put a threaded end on a parking brake cable to pull the equalizer. To test my idea I drilled an 1/8th inch hole in a 5/16 bolt about an inch deep and used a BIG bolt cutter with badly worn jaws to crimp the bolt. Now how much will it hold? Knowing that it only takes about 300 pounds to lock up the brakes I hooked it up to a cherry picker and lifted a 454 Chevy off the ground. Not very pretty but it held! Now for the intermediate cables. Pictures follow if I can figure out how to post em.
Haven't you guys got an industrial/farm supply house nearby??? They carry cable diameters from 1/8" to 1/2", and have ready made steel 'sleeves', or 'lugs' to fit. (they also have 'side-by-sides') Tractor Supply has a 'cable and crimp' station behind the steel and welding supplies. You don't have to buy the crimpers, just use a good flat chisel, and crimp it on your anvil. Or stolen piece of rail track. Or your vise.
I don't like the way Lokar clamps the 2 cables to a solid block. I like the way OEM does it with a clevis that pulls the 2 cables and equalizes the pull so both cables get equal pressure. The solid block could pull just one cable more than the other. Ago
I do like driveem's post says. I have done this on my 39 Ford, and on my Olds convert, and it workd great. I have never had a problem on either setup. Using the factory connectors, and it makes for a very clean set-up
The Jalopy Journal
