Running wires in the 48 plymouth and realize I don't know the best way to protect them to the doors for my windows, locks, etc. Went to a salvage yard to pickup a pair of the black wire boots in modern car's door jambs, but found out these won't work. Where newer cars open up to about 90 degrees from the door jamb and frame, my doors open up and almost slide forward toward the fender. Difficult to explain in writing, so I may need to snap a picture to show you guys what I mean, but there is very little room in the door jamb. Figure someone knows what I'm talking about and came up with a good idea to protect their wires. Any thoughts?
Running the wires inside of stainless springs works pretty well.... I used some fiberglass loom on a late model a few days back, it worked well also.
Do a search. There was a good discussion on this a couple of months back. As noted therein, I used some one inch stainless tubing that I curved to match the door swing. Others used braded hose.
Or don't use wires... use those contact things on the door and jamb that make contact when the door is closed.
what coupe said....cheap and obtuse...IE all you see is a few brass contacts when the door is open.....no wires....
Here is what I did on my 57 wagon. I milled out the bottom of both front doors and welded a cover onto the hinge to support the wires.
Early 60's Fords and Mercury's with courtesy lights in the door and power windows use a curved steel C channel bolted to the door that the wires run through. There are small tabs bent up to hold the wires. Not sure if it will work on your jamb style but figured I'd shoot a pic of it.
Use the stainless springs like mentioned before. I keep the jamb end anchored and let the door end glide. Keeps wires from being pinched as well as broken from flexing. Finish it off with appropriate grommets and you're done. Add extra wires, in case you add extra components later. Don't forget a ground wire.
Julianos has some made from braided stainless or hollow tubing. http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb...~S39D0IWZY898235119024q~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000029b
X however many on the brass doorjamb contacts!I've used them no problem for a couple of years now (he said, automatically jinxing himself). Paul
I have the contacts on my tailgate for the 3rd brake light. I went to the hinge wiring so the electric windows and door lights would work when open.
This is prolly the slickest solution I've ever seen...and I think it's hilarious that there are HAMBers here that find the solution by buying some brass contacts...most of the time, you'd get hammered by telling someone to BUY a "street rod" part and to me, those contacts are a "street rod" part...the point is: where's all the "build it don't buy it" HAMBers? R-
Till the first time you want to roll up the windows while outside the car. Or open the doors and the music cuts out.
You make a valid point Roger, but the way I look at it is this;are they are Street Rod part?-Probably yes. Do people notice them when I'm driving along like other Street Rod parts for example Billet wheels?-No do people notice them when I open the door?-No, they're probably too busy wondering how my doors apparently opened by themselves with no handles and me 20 feet away. And if that's too Street Rod, I can live with that Paul
Agreed Paul. On my Cadillac, I have a remote to roll the stock electic powered driver's window down from the outside...people are astounded that I can roll it up or down from 50 feet away in order to get in the car...and then again, Paul, I have a tilt wheel in my car as well...and to hear it, that's too "street rod" too. R-
i made these for my 58 truk i ran 2-14ga speaker wires, 2-16ga window wires, 2-14ga door solenoid wires and a 3/16'' bicycle brake cable in sheath for a safety unlatch. and here is the geometry of the hinge everything came from home depot. i had purchased a set of springs and found out that only half (3) my wires would fit in the 7/16 diameter hole. and they really didn't fit the hinge geometry. pushing 400 watts thru 20ga speaker wire didn't appeal to me either...