How do you pull studs from SBC heads??

Ive seen it done with a slide hammer and a propane torch, but i was wondering what everyones prefered technique is.

 

use a short peice of tubing or spacer and put the nut on.Tighten nut and it should pull it out

 

yeppers^^^^^

 

'Ol's Kerrect'. Like Winged Express says...do it right the first time.

 

BUT....do it before your machinist runs them thru the cleaning oven.
Near impossible to remove after they have been baked.
Dave

 

Someone makes a tool, really just a block of the right thickness steel with 2 holes drilled through it (spaced the distance between 2 studs); the tool not only gets used to pull old studs out, it also is used as a guide to cut threads for new screw-in studs (not the shouldered type). I think it's sold in the Compe***ion Products Catalog. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

These were already fresh rebuilt swap meet specials, and the guy swore that ya dont need screw in studs.... Yea probably not a good sign, but i'm a ****er

As for a tool, i have a couple tools i got with a few sets of screw in studs that are from the 60's. I hadnt thought of using the drill guide to pull the studs too, but like i said, last time i saw it done was with a slide hammer

 

Hang the throttle, induce coil bind......that will pull studs. Don't ask how I know

 

Rebuilder claims you don't need screw-in studs ... hope he isn't saying that because he has already "pinned" the studs. I'd be checking that out first before trying to pull any studs.

 

How many RPMs are you planning to turn? What camshaft? The seller could be right, you might not need screw in studs.
Larry T

 

You should be able to remove the SBC studs by using those rounded balls that come with the rocker arms. Stack a few of them on the stud, using the adjusting nut, and lots of grease, start screwing the nut down and it pulls the stud right out.
Years ago, and on a tight budget, I got into racing a 327 Chevy at the local drag strip. We used the power pac heads, and instead of screw in studs, the trick was to PIN the studs. I set up in a drill press with the help of my son, and we drilled the boss and stud, used 16 penny nails as our pins. We ran Z/28 vavle springs, and never had a problem.

 

I have a drill guide for pinning SBC head studs. Got it quite a few years back, never used it, had screw in studs installed instead.PM me if you want to go that route and we'll strike up a deal.

 

well,thats easy to check,if the heads are pinned,your good to go.....

 

I removed one on the track in Porter Texas back in the 70's. The valves didn't like it to much, so I'd change them to screw in studs.

 

Similar to the deep-socket, washer and nut method.

Bob

 

There are several good techniques here; use one of them and install screw in studs. Damaging an engine from a stud pulling is short sighted and foolish. JMO

 

Keep in mind when you replace the studs some of the screw in studs require you to mill off some of the head.They make some that you can drill and tapp that look like you old ones when done (replacement/repair studs ?).

 

Kinda drifting off topic, but what was the first year Chevy used screw in studs--65 maybe (396)??

 

We were putting together a 327 short block for a street racer kid we knew . We asked him to bring his heads so they could be checked out for installed valve spring height and coil bind for the cam we had in his block. When he showed up ,he seemed a bit bashful about what "someone" had done to repair the pressed and pinned studs, "someone" had brazed them in place where the bosses had been broken out by the pins when the studs had begun to pull again--total junk !!

 

They actually make a tool for doing it but I do it the way winged express does.

My other method is to use stout springs and lots of cam shaft then wing it real hard a couple of time they come right out.

 

Yes. The first small block heads with factory screw in studs appeared in 1970.

 

For some reason (don't really know why) I was thinking the DZ 302s and HiPo 350's had them in 69. Pretty close time frame, one way or the other.

I do know that the 425 horse 409s and the Z-11s came from the factory with pinned studs.
Larry T

BTW
We used to cut our own heads for screw in studs and guide plates. Crane sold a cutter that indexed off the press in stud that cut down the boss. You had to make sure none of the studs were pulled any (straight edge across the top of the studs) because the cutter used the top of the stud as a stop. You cut all the stud bosses first.

Then you used another crane tool that indexed off the stud next to the stud boss you were working on to line up the tap to tap for the boss in studs. You pulled on stud, used the tool to tap the boss. Then you screwed the stud into that boss, pull the stud next to it and use the fixture off the first stud you had replaced. You get the picture. Worked pretty good for a shade tree shop, but a Winonna machine is a lot more accurate.


BTW/2
I pulled the studs by stacking rocker balls and using the stock rocker arm nut.

 

Not in my dads brand new z-28, he owned it for less than a year and ****ed 3 of them out of his head

 

Kent Moore has a Rocker Arm Stud Remover J 5802-01 but I have used rocker balls stack as stated earlier in the post.

 

ITS BEST TO USE HEAT WHEN PULLING THEM ALSO GRADE 8 FLAT WASHERS SACKED AND THE TALLEST GRADE 8 OR 9 NUTS, OIL THE THREADS TOO

 

I did a set last summer. Heated the casting where they are pressed in, and plenty oil on the threads. Ratchet and cheater pipe; tried the impact once and twisted the stud right off. Once the stud moves, the rest of the "pull" goes pretty easy.