how do you shoebox guys slam your rides?

im wondering cuz,i lowered my pile,i lowered the rear last night with blocks and removing a few leaves,then i lowered the front tonight,by cutting the coils... the front is REAL close to the bumpstops and the engine is not even in it...

im just wondering what YOUVE shoebox guys have done to get them slammed,


also,how much of a drop do you get when you flip the spindles?

 

BTW,please excuse the RUST...this is as good as it gets down here

 

cut the coils, and drop blocks in the back. you should get 2 maybe 3 inches max on the side to sideswap i think

lookin good

 

How many coils did you cut? 2 is the MAX. I've cut 2 coils and had to cut the bumpstops in half and still basically rode on the stops(only an inch clearance). I've had shoeboxes lowerd about every way possible, except airbags, and I dont even want to mention it here what one rode the best as I don't want to promote heating coils. DOH! was that my out loud voice?

Billy

 

I thought that I saw a new project of the rollback the other day. Where did you find it?

 

Sammy, I cut coils [2 loops] flipped spindles, cut off bump stops and used 14" tires to get mine down. Also, my front springs came out of a 51 rag-top before I sliced 'em. It's possible they were heavier than a basic coupe/sedan spring. I used a late 70's trans-am stabilizer bar and that helped with not bottoming out around corners and when hitting bumps with only one front wheel. After oblonging one upper control arm mounting hole, it handled really good! Yeah, it rode a little stiff with the short springs but I like it that way.

 

it was in the daily times! i almost wasnt going to get it,but i figuered i had to get it to keep up with Kenny! LOL!

 

like i told shoebox72, i belive i messed up and didnt listen to the lil man in my head....he told me "two's enuff dammit!"

,,but of course i had to think "well,if twos good,then two and a half must be better!",,,ah fuck....oh well

 

Rocky,,what do you do to the place where the tie rods mount when you flip the spindles?

 

granted my 50 ford doesn't scrape as i drive, but it's alot lower than it was....used 2 inch blocks in the rear which actually took it down about 3 1/4 inches(the leaf springs were already pretty much flat.) and in the front(yeah, it's the forbidden method of lowering) collapsed some of the coils.took it about 3 1/2 inches down. everyone says that heating coils is very very bad...i can honestly say that my car rides better having a few inches taken out of the spring travel...before it seemed to float/bounce/drift as i would drive....now it rides nice. i've heard that the lowering spring cups work real nice though...

 

nice club coupe dude... that car Rules!

tuck

 

hey, has anyone ever used these on front?



how do they work out? is it the alternative to the torch and weight method of lowering?

 

If you want extreme low.


The front is a Fatman Fab. mustang II. 1" dropped arms with bags. Inner fender wells raised and fire wall cut back 2 inches to clear the 15" wheels.
The rear was bagged with a custom 4 link rear. Rear frame got a severe C section. The 8" Ford rearend was narrowed 2 inches. Gas tank was put on top of the floor of the trunk. Trunk floor raised also. Rear inner fender wells also raised to clear tires. Raised the drive shaft tunnel and modified the bench seat to fit.

 

[ QUOTE ]
hey, has anyone ever used these on front?



how do they work out? is it the alternative to the torch and weight method of lowering?

[/ QUOTE ]

I used em' on my 56 Vic. They work well and you loose about 3-4 inches w/ out cutting or heating coils. It's an easy install too. You do need to do a little bump stop work and I'm actually thinking about putting a spacer in my coils to further prevent compression of the spring and bottoming. In the rear I went w/ three inch blocks and a secret shackle trick. This got me about 6 inches lower.

 

i tried to use a very similar thing on the front of my shoebox....couldn't actually get them inbetween the coils...even with the front end jacked up and tire hanging free there wasn't enough room between them damn coils....maybe mine has different front springs than most?? that's why i ended up heating coils.

 

Butt.......I hadda heat and bend the steering arms down...then heat and bend the eyelets on their ends back up. This shortened the arms a little, causing a little faster steering with the penalty of a little more steering effort. Nothing to bitch about, tho. I actually liked it better.

 

I used Fat Man spindles. Heated the springs a little also. In the back I started with 2 inch blocks. Later went to 3 inchers. The car rode much better on the 2 inch blocks. Not sure why unless something I haven't found is hitting or it's just screwed up the suspension geometry. Something to look into. I wish the car was lower but in reality without lots of cutting, welding, bagging it's as low as it's gonna go. I feel it's still daily driveable and traditional.

 

[ QUOTE ]
hey, has anyone ever used these on front?



how do they work out? is it the alternative to the torch and weight method of lowering?

[/ QUOTE ]
I made a set of those and they worked very well, the amount of time it took to make them, I suggest buying them, they are pretty cheap. Used 3" blocks in rear, again, made them out of rectangular tubing and welded them to the Maverick rear I was installing. Got car down low.

 

drop spindles in front... 3" blocks out back in my shitbox... then we bagged it. don't know how to load my pic on this post but check out my posts by clicking on 'nor cal nic'click on 'show all users posts' then find my shoebox pic. post...
nic

 

B R, the only part you move is the spindle support. Rite one to the left side upside down. Viceversa. If I remember, a small amount of grinding on the steering arm. Drop about 3 inches. Did it many times as a kid. I think with relocating the lower "A" frames, and with spacers you can line it up OK........OLDBEET

 

if you search threw the shoe box posts from the last few months you should find it, i think i may have also put it on my nomination post for tech-o-matic stuff

ben asked a billion times dont know what its not on the tech thing, but anyways the spindal swap is here some were:S

goodluck
tim

 

who sells those spacers? i may go that route with the front of the plymouth if i don't do a volare clip...ken....

 

Back in 1963 I parked at the public pool in Eugene Oregon, so my dad wouldn't catch me. Used a soldering iron burner to drop it a couple of coils. Then we .. er borrowed a couple of 5.60 x 15 V Dub tires for the front. Got it down pretty good. A little bouncy as I recall. Ah ! The good ole simple days

 

Forgot to mention I used Fat Man lowered steering arms also. I eye balled the toe in and drove. Should have taken it to the front end shop for alignment. Just about ruined my new tires. When I finally did take it to an alignment shop it aligned right up. Drove much better. You can get those front spring lowering blocks from Hot Rod and Custom Supply in Florida. However I don't have any experience with those kits.

 

I'll throw my $.02 into this on what I did to my ragtop. I put Jamco springs, shocks and sway bars front and back. Also did the dropped Fatman uprights in the front and 2" blocks in the rear. Here is what I got. Before

 

after

 

Fuel Pump, that's a beauty! Does it drive and ride nice. I like mine so much I wonder what they were like when they were new. Mine's kind of a beater.

 

Chet,
It rides fine but the combination of the radial tires and stock streering box makes it a handfull to steer. I've got a Volvo box and Jamco's installation kit to try to fix that. If I'm still not happy after that I'll put a set of Diamondbacks on it. Otherwise I love it

 

Made my own front end lowering blocks,(like the ones from hot rod supply), and dropped it about 2-3". Was kinda a pain in the ass installing, grinding out the bolts, etc. Have 4" Jamco rear leaf springs. Looks real good, sorry no pics, and Jim the owner was real cool. Nice to be able to talk to a real person for once...

 

what are those things that you guys posted? and how do they work,,are they like a spring compressor or something?



what do you guys think about subframing ? i know it'd be alot of work,and the shoebox track may be to narrow to find anything suitable to go under it,but i have more time than money