How does one get a 97 to NOT LEAK

Stromberg 97's (EE-1's) weep from the gasket between the airhorn and the bowl for 2 reasons:

(1) No sealing ridge
(2) Only 5 airhorn to bowl screws (6 would have done wonders).

The absense of the 6th screw allows the airhorn to warp along the corners covering the bowl. This warpage then allows fuel to seep through the gasket.

This may be minimized (for a few years) by a conscientious rebuilder. When rebuilding the 97, one can straighten both the airhorn, and if necessary the bowl by making some custom jigs, and heating the castings (no more than 475 degrees F.) in an electric toaster oven, with pressure on the jigs. Measure the amount of warpage, and remove 0.003 with each heating/cooling cycle. Once straightened, the castings will have only minimal weepage for a few years, when you get to do the procedure over. Milling or filing the castings makes the problem worse, as does the use of thick airhorn gaskets.

We have not experienced weeps/leaks from the jet plugs.

Leakage around the throttle shaft after the engine is shut down is generally caused by the volatility of modern fuel.

Jon.

 

I just talked to my carb guru, He rebuilt three 97's for me in december. I get some weeping around the top by the felt accelerator pump rod as normal. And I get some around the throttle shafts after it sits for a little bit. He said that it is due to some minuute **** getting in the way of the needle and seat. I believe him because it comes and goes as far as leaking and not leaking. And if you have three they should all work, I don't get the block of the dumpers thing, but to each is own. Joe

 

You do not put gasket glue on carbs. The gas will desolve the gasker glue then plug up the jets.

Wait untill you have a back fire with six 97's on your engine. Wow, the flash is spectacular. Then, you get out of your car and go pick up what is left of the six air cleaners.

Do not install 97's. Go to G2's or newer. There are lots of 2bbl out there.

 

Uncle Max has it..Do them right and they won't leak.
I have probably redone over 300 in the last 40 years.
All in sets of 4.
I use neoprene/nitrile faced needles.
I run 6 lb. pressure on them.
NONE HAVE LEAKED.
Luck?? I don't think so.

 

All good advice for sure.

I straightened mine out, milled all gasket surfaces flat, set the floats properly etc etc.

Still leaked from the jet plugs, even when spot faced.

So once I had my jetting all nutted out and sorted, a tiny bead (I used a toothpick to put it on) of JB Weld AROUND the jet plugs (invisible on mounted carbs) stopped the leaking from around the plugs.

Just make sure ya dont get JB Weld on the jet plug's threads. The jet plugs are still easily removed even with the JB Weld....

Rat

 

Send it to Uncle Max! I've been running one of his 97's for a little over a year without it leaking a drop.

 

I was told to drill a very small hole in the cover by the float. Haven't tried it yet but will give it a try. Something to do with pressure I guess.

 

Everyone is right!!, great thread, let me elaborate on the mating surfaces. If you know anyone that is a machinist, or works in a machine shop, ask to use the SURFACE PLATE, basically a big square block of granite, really, really smooth on top. Then use some very fine emory paper, tape a sheet of it to the top of the surface plate, AND some fine valve lapping compound, make nice fiqure eights with the the parts being surfaced, being careful to apply EVEN pressure while fiqure 8ing. Occasionally turn the piece 180 degrees, and continue. look for a nice clean pattern all the way around, clean the parts REAL good and your done!!! Dont have a surface plate? Heres something very cool from the 'ole days, find a junk yard that has a old school bus, any kind of bus and pop out a small window, these make GREAT surface plates!!! Good luck with your--- uh why do you think they call 'em LEAKERS?

 

Chopper, and fellow HAMBers, almost forgot, B4 you lapp in the mating surfaces, take a small chamfer tool and put a small chamfer in each of the 5 screw holes, BOTH carb body and top. Most significantly the threaded holes, why, because threads pull up from over tightning, especially soft metal like the carb body is made from. So unfortunatly, even after a nice lapp job, not lap dance, lapp job, over tighten the screws and the threads begin to pull just enough to start that dreaded weap all over again. Someday well talk about the great significance of chamfering the threaded bolt holes when building a engine the "RIGHT" way, an often overlooked detail that too many engine builders make. Have a great day!!