How far can one bore a 305 chevy.

Silvolite offers 305 with a 400 crank stroker pistons

 

305 bore is 3.736
4.8L bore is 3.78, cheap, readily available. Pin ht is 1.324.

9.025 deck, 0.025 piston clearance, 1.324 pin ht, 3.48 stroke (305/350) , needs a 5.936 rod. Whats interesting is a 262 (90's caprice) uses a 5.94 powdered metal rod. So this combo could work.

You still need to sort out valve notches, Pin diameters, balance it, bore it. Unless the parts were free or you can machine it yourself, it doesnt make $ sense. Fun to look at though.

Original question was answered already. 305s are fine drivers with some top end help, a set of 1.94 heads help a lot (80's z28 and montecarlo ss). I dont think I'd personally put the money into one to bore and buy pistons though, 4" bore blocks are readily available.

 

A few days ago a Tennessee friend who does about 20 plus demo derbys a year made a stop by my shop and was hunting 305 engines. He said they can run longer when coolent is lost. He said the pro derby drivers love the small bore engine plus torque is very good for what he does. Several circle tracks classes call for 305 engines and the run very well against 350 engines, in fact the 305 is a little better off the corners. I have seen several of these power plants with over 200 thousand miles on them. A lot of folks think the 305 crank will fit in a 350 no problem but the 350 and 305 are balanced a little different. As per a friend at Jasper engines. Both have the 442 cast crankshaft.. Bottom line for the money spent find and rework a 350

 

Another thread that refuses to die! For a couple of years, I hunted for a 56-57, 265 block (did't want the 55, 265 block), and all I found were junk engines not worth anything. I resigned myself to using a 305 block, bored .014 over, and using a #1178 302 crank and decent factory rods to made my own, heavy duty bottom end 265. I even found a 4 bolt main, Canadian, 305 truck block, that was supposed to be "perfect"; well perfect was a block lying in the dirt for years, big cylinder ridge, NO main caps, and scale rust everywhere. NO SALE (some people should just be shot)! Now I have a 57, 265 block and I'm starting that build all over. In my D.D. truck, is a 305 block that's .030 over, has a cut down 400 crank and rods (block clearanced to fit them in), a forged TRW, 305 flat top piston, and a generic RV type cam; the rotating assembly has been balanced. The only drawback is the #601 305 heads with small valves. CR is rather high with the stroke involved, the small CC chamber heads, and the flat top (not dished) pistons, so it's RETARDED to run decent. In a heavy truck with 3.73 gears, it has a "sweet spot" right at 70 MPH on the freeway. I originally bought the kit in order to "save" the trucks original 305 block, only to find out it had spun the main bearings really badly. That was back when my Mother owned the truck, and she ran it out of oil (has gauges instead of idiot lights). That's also when she gave me the truck, so I could "fix it". NHRA Stock/Super Stock Racing, 305's are running 10 to 11 second E.T.'s. GM made/used the 305, and the smaller 262 and 267's, for TWENTY-TWO years. Not really a junk engine, just not a very large engine, and they were originally made to overcome the Feds demand for emission restrictions. If I were to build another one today, it would have to be a roller block, run 49 CC chamber aftermarket heads with larger valves/ports, and fuel injection that bolts to carburetor base type manifolds. Decent cam and valve train with a forged crank and aftermarket rods. Pretty much a giant killer on the street. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.