Had some flathead style biscuits go FLAT and was wondering if I could make my own from something harder. What is it that C9 uses? Would nylon or Delrin work? If not, who makes a good quality mount that wont go flat within a year?
I've heard of folks using UHMW for mounts. also- you might check McMaster Carr for a better rated/harder grade of rubber. The downside to these, is I think they're both pricey materials. On Edit: McMaster would likely have urethanes too.
I kept breaking the top motor mount in my daily driver Camry so instead of dropping $40 on a new one I machined a delrin peice to replace the rubber. After I did it I started it up in park and let it idle and rev a little... no noticable vibration. VICTORY! Then later that day I had to go somewhere and as soon as I put it into drive everything that was a little bit loose in that car decided to rattle, but as soon as I give it any gas the vibration is gone. It also likes to vibrate the motor mount bolt loose, I haven't put loc***e on it yet. Sooooo.... the point of this story is that in a car with a standard ****** I think delrin motor mounts would do just find. I left it in my car with an auto, and its only a little annoying at stoplights.
Skate board wheels. I like low 90's Or is it high 100's The soft ones. ask a nieghborhood skate punk for his older brothers (big) wheels. The old (1990's) style large ones not the newlow profiles I use them as replacment body mounts on 4x4's
last set I replaced, I use a urethane leaf spring bushing--you can now get 'em at most any auto zone. also cut well with a hacksaw (and they "machine"nice,too. pleasantly suprised...) I like the idea of skateboard wheels, especially if you could find some old slimeballs or cool colored wheels...
Original Ford mounts are pretty hard...last ones I bought were marked 59T (truck) and were really hockey-puck-like. Who knows how much hard was the result of age... Look around for used originals that haven't gotten oil soaked. I think you just discovered another bad repro part.
Smart - and should be especially easy since I am the neighborhood skateboarder. I should have thought of this myself.
Yup, mine were from Speedway and went pretty flat QUICKLY - within a couple of weeks. And the more they flattened out the harder it was to keep the mounts tight. The nuts bottomed out on the threads - and the bolts themselves were barely long enough to use with Speedway's own waterpumps. And my frame mounts were fabbed from 1/8" rectangular tubing so I know it wasn't that.
Hockey pucks are more suited for mody mounts than engine mounts IMHO. Too hard and therefore transfer too much vibration to the ch***is. Go to Sears, in the hardware section, find the appropriate sized rubber stoppers, and drill the necessary hole through the middle. They're similiar in size to 55-57 Chevy mount cushions, and have been holding up my 383 Mopar with no trouble for the past year.
I used hockey pucks. Cheap and plentiful. Harder to drill than what I expected. But, 10,000 hard miles won't lie to ya.
UHMW. Available in flat sheets of varying thicknesses, IE: 1/2", 3/4" 1" will usually do it. Cuts easy with hole saws and a drill press. An easy way out would be to use the original Ford type rubber lower cushion. Even so, I made lower UHMW mounts for the roadsters. Use a 1/2" bolt, washers if necessary and be sure and use a nylock nut on the bottom side. Especially if you re-use the rubber lower cushion. That allows you to snug things up, but not so tight the rubber is overly compressed. My experience with the stock style rubber mounts was that different companies have a different Durometer (hardness) and some collapse right away and others, it takes a while. The UHMW mounts have been on the 32 for quite a while and have proven to be vibration free and in fact - probably subjective, but who cares? - they seem to run smoother than the rubber mounts did. Here's a pic of the 31's mounts. You will not need the nifty aluminum piece top and bottom. Although you will need a device to keep the cushion/mount centered on the frame mount. A 1/2" stainless fender washer will work fine up top and you could re-use the lower steel rubber cup to keep the mount centered in the stock frame mounts large hole. UHMW can be ordered from Grainger, McMaster-Carr. It can also be found at rubber supply stores, bearing houses, hydraulic houses, oil field and some farm supply houses. Most times they have a rem (remnant) barrel or shelf. Try to buy from there cuz the price is usually pretty good. Skip using Teflon since the UHMW is 70% stronger and not as slippery not to mention three times the price over UHMW. You can make a lot of other neat stuff from UHMW. Body mounts, through firewall grommets, firewall heat shields for throttle rod p***-through. You're only limited by your imagination. The pic shows the UHMW cushion in a Ford style stamped lower sheet metal cup. The engine trans weight sat on the mount via the 1 1/2" diameter piece for 7 months and when removed the UHMW was not dented or marked - which is what leads me to believe a large span washer/cap/cover is not required. I made the aluminum top piece cuz I like Billet TM and it's cool.
I had the same trouble with a pair - think mine were from Sac Vintage - don't know who's repop they were. Finally went back to Bob Drake's for mounts - his have a metal band around the outside perimeter like the OEM mounts. Helps them maintain their height.
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