Art & Inspiration How important are the NHRA frame certifications and how do you pass them?

We're building the 9" for the rear end since the engine is growing stronger. Since I'm going to the 9", I figured lets do mini tubs and put some tire under the back end. But, as the car will definitely be in Jungle Gym territory, what do you do to pass the rest of the safety requirements. It talks about frame certification, I have the factory frame. Other than possibly adding mounts for the cage, what else is required to pass certification? If I just don't lay on it and stay under the time/speed, is it really required? If I leg one run out and it becomes known that the car can post the times, am I restricted from running it again until I do cert and whatever else they require? I'm not a drag racer so these hoops are new to me, or at least I haven't raced at a sanctioned race in over 40 years. I just don't want to go out and get black balled before I get to play and see if I still like it.

 

how fast are you gonna run?? 10 sec. is the jump that will put you on the trailer...I don't know the current rules , but 10 will require a nhra lic,..

 

You can down load the NHRA rule book. The requirements are spelled out for the categories based on E.T. and/or speed and you must comply with the general regulations section. Most of the tracks I raced at were pretty strict about safety equipment. I have seen people booted for many different issues including arguing with tech officials.

 

In NHRA drag racing, the speed you can run without a license depends on the elapsed time (E.T.) and whether you’re racing in the quarter-mile or eighth-mile. Here are the requirements:

1. Street Cars:
   
   • For vehicles running 13.99 seconds (8.59 in the eighth-mile) or slower, a valid state driver’s license is sufficient.
   • If you’re faster than that, you’ll need an NHRA competition license.
   • Specific safety equipment is also required, such as seat belts, a roll bar in convertibles, and approved helmets.
2. NHRA Competition License Levels:
   
   • Level 6: Required for E.T. between 9.00 and 9.99 seconds (quarter-mile) or 5.65 and 6.39 seconds (eighth-mile).
   • Level 7: For E.T. slower than 10.00 seconds (quarter-mile) or 6.40 seconds (eighth-mile).

 

First, buy an NHRA rule book and look up the requirements for the speeds you want to run and the general requirements as well. As for full chassis certification with a sticker, you'll not need that unless you're going pretty quick...9.99 maybe? Otherwise it's general rules and roll bar/cage rules for speeds you run.
If you run it out and they send you home, they CAN make you comply before coming back. It's up to them to reconsider if you promise to go slower.
What ET and MPH will you be running?

 

Depends on the strip, if you go to a legit NHRA track you will need the required certification. You will need to contact the NHRA or someone that is a qualified chassis builder;, make an appointment; after which a NHRA tech will have to certify your car, it is not free.
If you are just going to test & tune, and as you said "don't lay on it", you will be okay. If you run to quick , you will be asked to exit and return when upgrades have been made. Some unsanctioned tracks you can get away with all kinds of*****...just depends. More info on what you are building would help, what you expect to run, open car, etc.
Talk to some local racers, like I said, depends where you take the car.

 

The engine is going to be hp heavy with the 871 on it. It was 646 without the blower and too lean to push the RPMs past 6500. The car weighs 3140 as it sits. Even at 3400 I've been warned it could put us deep enough into the 9s to get us in trouble. As I mentioned, I can keep it out of the 9s by being smart with the gas pedal, but if (more likely when) it does dip into the 9s is it automatic you're out of there? And how can I pass all the tech stuff if it's really needed, before that happens. The car is to be 85% street and 15% race at the most.

Edit: The car is my 51 Styleline. The rear end is a given upgrade since the blower is going on to make the engine work right. So that starts the path down the slippery slope of going too fast for what it has. More than likely I'll add off topic electronic controls and the corresponding GM OD transmission to make them work. The manual valve body 700R4 is fully built and has a*****ter shield, but it won't survive unless I'm light on the pedal. Holley says I need the boost control msd system to make it run right (not too rich/lean where you don't want it). It doesn't have a fuel cell, master off, electric cut off, or any of that other stuff. Not to mention the windows are all glass.

 

I think something like 11.5 and quicker you'll need a rollbar ,fire jacket, and a few other things if older than 2008 or so.... so again, how fast you think you will run..what I used to do, run a half pass, see where you are at, then a 3/4 if you have room/...I ran my small block FED which would run in the 8.90 class, run out low gear and shut it off... ran right @ 10 O's usually with a 5, but got a warning when I did an "O" 9.99 was the line...

 

if you're in the 9s you need a full cage and it needs to be certified. The frame itself doesn't need certification, only the cage

https://www.nhraracer.com/content/general.asp?articleid=47000&zoneid=132

is required reading

 

Well, if you go to the strip with that car and there's any kind of tech they'll ask you what you intend to run. You'll get one pass and maybe a time slip if you're lucky (if you let 'er rip ) . Then they'll ask you to refrain from running unless you make the necessary alterations or slow down. Biggies: Roll bar/cage, current helmet, battery cut off switch if battery isn't in stock location, proper dated seat belt harness.

 

If the car has a ladder bar rear suspension, you will need the brackets that encapsulate the rod ends at the front. Also, a driveline loop in the vicinity of the front u-joint, is mandatory in most cases.

 

The MSD Boost Control retards the Ignition timing based on boost pressure and is mainly to avoid detonation. You can get away without it depending on the boost level and fuel but your tune up better be right. Being "light on the pedal" is probably going to be light on the fun you are going out there for.

 

I'm looking for a cage person to figure out if I need to rethink the interior. Not a fan of the full cage in a street car, nor the cut off switch if I can't keep the battery under the hood. But I want to do drag and drives and I'd hate to waste the trip and not be able to run if the car goes too fast. I'd hate to piss the wife off buying a bunch of new parts and pieces if they aren't really needed. The engine has good parts in it, but I screwed up and put too big of heads on it. It made 641 at 6400 at 8.5:1 compression. and AFR in the 15s and 16s. So, to make it work, the 871 sitting in the shop is going on. At -12% that will be about 6 lbs of boost which will in theory put it near 900 hp. Thus the re-visit the plan and figure out what I must do, would like to do, and can't do.

Thanks for all the input!

 

Scroll down to page 110 and put your decoder ring on. https://www.nhraracer.com/Files/Tech/2024 NHRA Rulebook.pdf
The rules you are interested in start there.
10.99 or quicker require a cage. It's a bit vague on what is required in said cage though. I'm thinking one has to search a bit further for that.

Top image from https://st.hotrod.com/uploads/sites/21/2018/03/NHRA-Racing-Safety-Rules.pdf

 

You say you expect 900 HP, that is nice. But the important thing here is; what have you done to the chassis? Putting tubs in is a start, but there is much more involved to put that horsepower to the track. Not knocking you, but you said you never drag raced, and at the level of power you intend to make, there is a big learning curve.

 

In addition to safety a cage will stiffen the chassis and is a huge benefit when tuning the suspension.

 

Frenchtown Flyer's #1 Drag Racing Rule:

NEVER PUT A 9 SECOND MOTOR IN A 12 SECOND CHASSIS !!!
I've seen that with disasterous results way too often. The other around is OK - 9 second chassis / 12 second motor.

 

As much as I think some of NHRA rules are a bit overboard, they are there for a reason. One reason is 900HP in a car built for 90hp. I personally have never owed a car over about 400HP. That gets me to the speed limit fast enough.
One time I thought about building a 4cyl altered. I was told it needed all the safety items any altered car required even though it was going to be slow bracket car. 12- 14 seconds.

 

To be exact I said it's been 40 years since I've raced a sanctioned drag race. I've driven quite a few high powered cars and several of them have been raced (just not a sanctioned race or even at a sanctioned race track). I understand that this engine is growing to the point of possible disaster if not driven properly. I've had a blower come off in a street race back when I was young and foolish. I don't want to repeat any of those kind of lessons learned the hard way, and certainly don't want to start discovering new lessons using the trial and fail method. The factory frame was to have new front and rear suspension systems before the engine grew. It just needs to be adjusted now. I always knew that the car would someday out grow the rear end it was originally slated to get. I just didn't think it would be before the car was ever driven. There was a thread about street brawlers and sleepers not that long ago. That is what I wanted the car to be originally. At around 700 hp (the original goal) the car would be a good 10 or 11 second car. And a great street cruiser with classic looks (factory type interior and no outward race parts showing). I've shoed plenty of cars in that range before just not at a race track. I'm trying to do things the legal way these days and only plan to race at a real race track. The blower changes the equation as there is nothing about a blower sticking though the hood that doesn't say try me. The car needs to have some of the real drag car features done correctly. I get that. But, there are a lot of things I would prefer not to mess with. I don't want a tube frame under the car. I don't want a fuel cell in the trunk. The off topic front suspension will need to be adjusted for more lift on launch given the tubbs and sticky tires it will now be running. I'm still debating on coils or leaves on the rear and 4 link or ladder bars.

The parts that we were already building with are top shelf parts, SFI certified, and mostly over kill for the original build. Now they are going to be good enough but we may still need to change some out to stay safer than the minimum. I was hoping that frame certification wasn't a huge deal. As it appears, it will be. I'll still use the factory frame, but it will be supported where it needs it. The trans mount will be fabricated and will hopefully strengthen the frame (possibly a x member type support). The driveshaft loop mentioned above was already in the plan for the car as even a 12 second car could use one. The blower will have a proper guard and I've been told restraints are not required at 5 or 6 lbs of boost. So, they won't be used (at least at first). I've dialed back the blower as it was 37% over driven on the boat engine it came from. The car will still be a pump gas driver. Built engines are a lot like an all you can eat buffet. Just because you can, doesn't mean you have to. And if you do, then you better be able to handle it and have made the proper preparations.

 

If you want to, this car could be put in the off-topic forum and pics and suspension stuff would be ok to post. Hint Hint.

 

You really do need to spend some time reading and re-reading the rule book...just to get a feel for how it all works.

The blower restraint is needed with alcohol....it's not based on a boost number.

 

I read that. I have been downloading them as the car evolves to try and be ready when it's ready to go. Some of them are not easy to find with a simple google search. Such as exactly what is considered strong enough in a frame and what do they inspect for exactly. And with more boost, I think they should be used. A blower coming off is quite violent. At least as viewed from the drivers seat.

Nope, I want it to be as HAMB correct as possible. I'm even considering the gasser style front suspension but, I've heard they are speed limited due to wind and speed on full bodied cars. Still researching that.

 

Sounds like you've got it all figured out, now all the rest of us can do is watch the unfolding disaster from a safe distance!

 

Have you ever played chess? Before you move your piece you are supposed to consider every possible move and several more moves ahead using the same every possible move technique. Building a car is something like that. The goal is to build it once and have a plan for anything that happens after you start building. I'm not a lot of things, but methodical isn't one of them. I thought I had a great plan. That went down the drain when the engine didn't work as it was built. I don't want to have to rebuild the plan again if I miss something. Jim has built, driven and raced his cars and if I'm missing something, hopefully he will find it. I don't have all the answers, never claimed to. But, just because someone asks a question doesn't mean they have no clue what the answer is. Sometimes we just want to make sure and the people that have weighed in on this question and many others on the site are a wealth of knowledge and experience. One we can get from reading, the other doesn't happen until the rubber meets the road. And that isn't the time to figure out you missed something. I read and consider every suggestion. Some I will follow, others I may pass on. But, I will make those decisions by being informed and the information on this site is very good usually.

 

I had a plan for Plan II, and it worked out pretty well.



It does take a lot of work to figure it all out. What you need, and what you can get away without.

and there are plenty of low 9 second street cars running straight axles...

 

Yeah, BUY A RULE BOOK !!!

Don't believe...everything...you read ! If you just plan on the occasional weekend racing at your local track, you DON'T need an NHRA license. BUT, to run NHRA events, then yes, you do.
I just two weeks ago, when to my local track and asked all the questions, and let the tech guys go over my car. Basically, everything depends on how fast I go, was the basic answer.

Under 9.99 seconds, is the dividing line where MANY things change...so beware. Again, buy a rule book.
Also, stop by your local track. I'm sure the tech guys (girls) will lead you in the right direction.

I just bought a car that I have a time slip that says the car ran in the mid-high 10 sec. bracket. Full cage, door bars, most of a modern "funny car cage", the whole thing.

IF...you design it well, the cage WILL NOT be a hindrance. I've put a bunch of miles in the street with it (like squirrel and his Chevy II), with NO uncomfort. Seating is comfortable, drives well.

Design it carefully, you'll be fine.

Mike

 

There's a bunch of mis-information on this thread, as well as some solid info. Do not take what you read on a discussion board as gospel. Be aware that some people interpret the rule book a bit differently.
Get the rule book. Do your research. Go to the track with a buddy to help out with their car, and look at well prepped cars that are similar to yours, and talk to the tech guys when they are not busy with someone's car, and maybe watch and listen when they are. It's mostly about the safety aspect for most cars, and how they are equipped.
Most tracks will have a chassis cert guy that either comes to the track on certain days, or that you can make an appointment with.

 

Just put it together and head to the local drag strip. Tech Inspector won't let you run if the car doesn't meet the safety standards. Since they, nor you, know what the ET/Trap Speed actually will be the first time out, no cage is required yet. You can run a sub 9 second pass over 150mph out the back door without a cage at least once depending on the track.

You mentioned earlier around 700hp. With a car that's around 3000lbs and good suspension and tire, you're well into the single digit ET's.

 

I find the tech guys are pretty savvy group and they have a pretty good idea how fast or slow a car will be. They told me right off the bat DO NOT go quicker than 11.50…no roll bar,,no harness, no SFI jacket,….. You break the rules and you risk being permanently banned from the facility. I’ve had the same conversations at NHRA and IHRA tracks.

 

Every Sanctioning body sends cars home. Ask the guys who travel 3000 miles to Bonneville and sit in the their trailer. You’re out to have fun and go fast … when you get hurt your wife-girl friend-significant other-mom-dad-brother-etc are phoning every crack pot lawyer on TV for their “piece of the pie”. Follow the rule book or go over it..