Art & Inspiration How important are the NHRA frame certifications and how do you pass them?

Yeah, that's true....

 

All the more reason to be in charge of your own safety.

 

Me too - I used .134 wall DOM on my RPU because the 1/8" wall minimum spec was only .118" thickness, even wthout a bend and I was warned by tech it may not pass.

 

You could try telling the tech the cage was clear coated and that’s why he can’t see it.

 

11 gauge is .120 nominal, but can measure .118, while 10 gauge is .134 and should be thicker than the .125 spec

 

The first time I went through tech with this car they went through it very thoroughly, even made me rev the engine to check the battery disconnect. Only thing they dinged me on was no SFI flex plate and rubber valve stems…valve stems are now steel.

 

Then that is a very good place to be getting your info from. You might still find a little difference in rule interpretation from different tech inspectors at different tracks, but that's what can happen when humans are involved.
Best practice? Build to the highest possible interpretation and it should be good anywhere. Might also be good for you one day, but let's hope it never gets the ultimate test......

 

I’m really surprised this thread has lasted this long. The obvious answer from the start is buy a rule book read it carefully before you start building a cage or making changes to the car. Don’t rely on opinions. The foolish question is “how fast can I go and get away with it before getting kicked out or banned until I comply with the rules”. Anyone of those passes could result in life changing injuries or worse. The rules are not made to punish a racer with extra work or financially. They are made to keep the racers and spectators safe. The rules are the result of knowledge gained from previous accidents and injuries of competitors. Racing of any kind doesn’t need the bad press of deaths or injuries that follows any incident. If this is a street car build what you want if it’s a race car follow the rules. My opinion your mileage may vary!

 

It’s a street car that will race. But read the comments. People that have also read the rules have different opinions on what they say. The best advice received was talk to a tech. I did and posted what he said and there is still confusion about ythe rules say. Rules are designed to do two things. Yes keep people safe is one of them. But protecting the organization that made the rule is just as important if not more so. If I pass RRC and crash the car and die as a result, there is nothing they can do for me. But if someone sues saying the rules weren’t enforced or strict enough, it costs them. Self certification is probably a result of this. If they can stop you from racing but the decision if your car is safe enough to race is on you, they can’t be sued for missing something. Self certification does not make you safer. Yet it’s a rule. Hmmmm. Where are you more likely to crash your horrid? At a prepared track with tightly controlled traffic or out on the street? Being rule compliant is a concern if you want to participate. Being safe enough should be a concern if you want to survive.

 

Those two things go hand in hand.

 

Let me put it a different way. A 5way seatbelt is compliant on the track. Is it legal in a street car? In my 51 it would be as it didn’t come with belts and they aren’t required. If they were required most race harnesses are not DOT approved and it would be illegal to drive on the road with just the 5 point. Many parts on drag cars are race only parts and not intended for street use. And nobody is saying it can get you killed if you don’t comply with the DOT laws. Yet it can. All safety laws and rules should be considered when building a car. And while compliance gives a minimum, there is nothing that says you can’t do more. When I change the glass in the car, it will get glass that meets both safety and regulatory compliance. Cages are safe if you drive with a helmet. DOT warns against using them on the street without a helmet. Because as most can guess, people have been injured by it.

 

If your going fast, do it right. Choose a chassis builder that gets NHRA certification regularly or your building a street car on over kill

Roll bars have bar angles, wall thickness, material, weld type. Sonic testing is not out of question. Many miss location of main hoop.

My first roll bar went into a demolition derby car after I cut the P-O-S out with a sawzall.

Fellow Racer pointed me to a shop "guaranteed to pass" or its free. Matter of fact, they scheduled the NHRA inspection at an event, they were waiting for me. It passes at any track.

And as previously mentioned, if the track runs no inspections, you better be aware of the alcohol burning wreck in the other and that might get tied up with you after crossing the center line. Then safety crews will get to cut 2 people out of their non certified pile of metal.

 

i run a 1968 front engine dragster. you know rules have changed a lot since then. the latest chassis updates cost me $6100. because of the new helmets which are higher, had to cut the old cage off and a new one installed, need 3'' top of helmet. the top layer chassis pipe also had to be changed. and wouldn't you know it, the material dimension in 68 is different than now. knee bar, old rules strap was fine. weld in knee bar pipe. then....this car was born with a 354 hemi, clutch flite, hand clutch, hand brake. just before motor plate there is/was a bump out because of the oil filter came up, old style. motor plate to start of bump out was 1''. rules now are at least 2''. bump out gone. now this has made installing eng/trans assy extra twisting and bending on me. also no bump out can't use oem starter. lucky i had a mini starter in stock. rules now require hans and diaper. thankfully i run gas. going alky or nitro would just be ridiculous on everything.
but safety is great.

 

Lowered a seat to get the helmet 3 inches below a cage once.
On a car never equipped with a belt, do DOT rules apply?
On a late model car we did a roll bar with an approved race harness. Kept the DOT belt in place for street driving.

if you not driving on the street with a helmet, cage and seat placement needs to be considered. You can bump that head hard on a cage just by hitting a pothole.
I’m not doing a halo on a build for this reason. But I don’t have really much for rules to follow. Just has to have a roll bar.
But the seat is being placed where I can’t hit it plus the seat is a modern race style seat.
Just crap to think about.

 

forget to add. blower belt cover required. blower straps are required. but 7.50 up don't need to be recerted thankfully. 125 for recert or new for 125 if you go faster. and more tracks are requiring
be thankful its not a top fuel dragster or funny car. just about everything part has to be recerted EVERY year

 

i think if the car never came with seat belts, you will need to use sfi belts. no just anything

 

Racing safety equipment hurts more no racing occupants than most people realize. Just as there is a lot to consider to be in spec for racing, the same equipment might not be legal or safe to use on the street. I have a qualified cage builder recommended by a tech inspector and still there will be people second guessing the results. People wear race harnesses improperly because they are uncomfortable and wind up getting injured. Even the best safety equipment is only good if it’s used properly. NHRA only cares about safety on the track. You don’t see them doing DOT checks prior to the cars leaving the track. But as owners we need to consider safety first on and off the track.