Hot Rods How much power can be gained with rings?

I talked with a guy at Venolia yesterday, he seemed to think that the gas porting value was outweighed by the amount of maint it caused, so I think I will forego the idea of gas porting.

 

In the mid / late 80's the total seal gap less was thought to be the way to go for blown fuel. This was when you could still leave the heads on if it leaked good. But we found that running a gap less for the second ring you could have pinched the top ring and the leak down told you it was good. Not long after that they all went to dyke style rings. For milder applications I would think they would be worth the few extra dollars. JC

 

Here's a GQQD read----> so i don't have to type it out--->
them TS rings can get up there LIKE around 350.00...
http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...ns-in-a-high-performance-boosted-environment/

 

I like the way you think.

 

in post #28 that link says --->
Your machine shop should have a PAT gauge (a type of profilometer) to actually measure the final bore’s surface roughness. Total Seal says typical values in microinches for general performance apps should be around RPK 8 to 12, RK 20 to 30, and RVK 30 to 50. High-end NASCAR or NHRA Pro Stock racers trade off ultimate longevity for maximum smooth finishes: RPK 3 to 5, RK 10 to 13, and RVK 18 to 22.

 

See, that's what I am talking about.....I need this kinda stuff. I think I need a new machinist.

 

I've used C&A's zero gap or Total Seal's in my LSR GMC 6 for over 20 years with what I think is success.
This year in our dirt track 372" we went with CP's and the narrow ring package. (No gapless for the first time) Continuous on and off throttle from 5-7000 and after 6 races there is absolutely no visable blowby And there was a substantial HP gain on the dyno. We were told to change rings every 2 years or 20-25 races Which was normal tear down/inspection anyway. We use the lateral gas ports when ordering custom Pistons. I think it come down to a personal comfort zone. Good luck.

 

People forget that the ring has to seal against the bottom of the land as well as the cylinder wall. This is why I mentioned thick rings and ring flutter earlier. As far as running a gapless ring in the second land, I dont think anyone does that anymore. Consensus that I heard from people way smarter than me that did that was that any combustion pressure that got past the top ring was trapped by the second ring and could push the top ring off the land.
If you are relying on the second ring to contain combustion pressure, you have already lost the rabbit.
Any serious ring set is expensive, gapless or otherwise, we are way out the realm of white box rebuilder stuff here. I remember a very savvy SS racer from Colorado who built a fixture to hand lap the bottoms of his compression rings.
I wonder if @barryR still lurks here. He worked on rings at Speed Pro for years, he would be a good guy to talk to.

 

we hand lapped way back in the 60's

 

they still make gapless second rings. I have been using them for years. there is a set in the engine right now. they work great. im no ring expert that's for sure. what I do know about my gapless rings is that I have less leak at the end of the season as compared to regular rings. I will put in another set when its needed.

 

http://www.musclecardiy.com/performance/how-to-build-racing-engines-piston-technology-guide/
long read but a lot of info.

 

Joe that reminds me of the offset piston pins , has
something to do with the thrust side...