Technical How much side flex is normal in a triangulated 4 Link?

Yes to the bit of play from me too. I have nearly a decade behind me building drag race and street suspensions. I didn't read every reply so if this was covered, well OK. I used to hear, "...not a race car, just for the street..." which is the bat signal for build the livin **** out of the mounts and such. No railroad tracks on drag strips, right? Pot holes? Speed bumps? Nah, and if so I'd find a better track, but I digress.

Any plans of gussets on the mounting tabs? The one in your vid, I'd cap it about 1/2 way up from the housing, and that cap would be flared at the bottom to give it addl grunt for unseen bumps and road hazards. Every mile is a rough p*** down a ****ty drag strip. You can't over do in that regard. .100 steel would be fine, it'll tie both tabs together nicely and shape easy too. More than you asked for, I know, just throwin it out there.

 

I'm curious as to what "track cars" , Oval? Dirt?

I'm not questioning the accuracy of lasers.........You have picked up fabrication tolerances.
There are a lot of variables with a watts link that could put it slightly out of whack.
[slightly different length links, or offset in the bellcrank, or mounting heights, etc etc]
It is very easy to make a watts travel in a "J" or "S" path by moving the mounting pads and altering the lengths of the arms so one arcs differently

You can get a sandwich plate made to go between the housing and the backing plate [and use longer bolts]
Use the gasket as a template but make it 1/2" oversize around the outside PLUS laser cut a mounting tab at the top [or bottom] and gusset it back to each side. Drill a hole in the tab and bolt a heim joint through it with a nut each side.

If seen this done on a budget Ford Explorer 8.8 conversion into a 4th gen Camaros where they needed to mount a torque arm.

If you use studs ,you and still remove the backing plate, And the heim joint [with 2 nuts] make it easy to adjust pinion angle

 

Hi, just came across this thread... there's a lot of good info here and I won't wade into the discussion about triangulated vs parallel etc. Well, maybe two sentences: You will likely be happy with either kit installed correctly and safely on a street driven car. The only way you'll be able to tell the difference is if you swap it out for the other one, which is relatively unlikely.

I can't tell for sure if it's our kit from the video. I'd be able to tell 100% by the welds, if you can post a picture of any weld on the kit. We also supply our kits with thin nylok nuts, and the video shows a full height nut. Are both bushing halves installed in the adjuster?

 

How is that bar mounted on the front? Lippy