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How to by a flathead block.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gianttype, Jun 24, 2008.

  1. gianttype
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 35

    gianttype
    Member
    from iowa

    Hello everyone. I have a little 29 body I have had around for a while. I would like to use a flathead for power but don’t know much about them. I am thinking about using edelbrock parts for the rebuild looks like the cover everything from cranks to finned heads. N-e-way I am wonder if any of you have advice on how to buy a flathead block. What year to look for and I hear a lot of them have internal problems from freezing and getting clogged up. Can you spot a defect from tell tell signs?

    Thanks
     
  2. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,642

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Remove the heads and pan before you even bother exchanging any money.
    Look for cracks specifically along the valve area and oil pan rails, the water pump mounting surfaces, between the valves, and the head bolt holes to the p***ages. I bet 80% have cracks of some sort. Look for a 1938 through 53 block. Before you even cut a chip...have it magnefluxed. Lots of posts here on flatheads...read it ALL!! Before you even invest... They are an expensive powerplant. Make sure your heart is in it..
     
  3. gianttype
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 35

    gianttype
    Member
    from iowa

    Wow 80% that's not good odds on finding a good one. Running or not it seems it is potentially junk.

    Looking at my parts catalog it looks like parts are divided into 1939-1948 or 1948-1953 any preference in that area.
     
  4. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    No real preference for the year breaks. Many prefer the later 8BA-style blocks (49-53 (although some trucks got them in '48 & Canada kept 'em until '54)) due to a variety of reasons.

    Earlier 59A-style engines are better looking, IMO and take all the same basic upgrades well.

    You can mix-n-match parts between the two styles to a large extent with only minor modifications.

    Search the Tech archives for flathead stuff...
     
  5. hotrod40coupe
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 2,561

    hotrod40coupe
    Member

    If you want to really learn about flatheads get Frank Oddo's book. [​IMG], $20.00 from Bob Drake.
     
  6. You will never spend so much money to go so slow.
     
  7. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,884

    continentaljohn
    Member

    HA HA HA so true :D but the sound is second to none:p. I like to find one unstuck and that runs. A few IL guys have them like Matt at Fox Vally Hotrods can help you out with a block, he's a Flathead Hoarder.
    I'm working on a 29 roadster ch***ie right now,39 motor,trans Model A rear etc..
     
  8.  
  9. gianttype
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 35

    gianttype
    Member
    from iowa

    Hi Matt - I am going to send you a direct email. See if I cant knock your collection down to 39.
     
  10. Vic
    Joined: Jan 17, 2005
    Posts: 180

    Vic
    Member
    from Florida

    We've got a total of seven Flatheads right now including one Lincoln Zephyr V-12 and one Lincoln Cosmopolitan 337 c.i. The rest are a '39 221 c.i, a '47 59A, a '53 8BA and two 8RT's ('51 & '53) and I've had a love/hate relationship with each of them. In my opinion no engine looks or sounds as good as a fully dressed Flathead. I don't need fast; I've been there and done that. Now, I like to cruise in our Flatheads.
     
  11. 36tbird
    Joined: Feb 1, 2005
    Posts: 1,179

    36tbird
    Member

    Petejoe said 80% have cracks but that doesn't mean you throw out the block necessarily. It depends on where the cracks are. You'll see cracks all the time in the center of the head surface between the bolt/stud hole and the adjacent cooling jacket hole. Some people do nothing about them except for thread sealant, others put in nutserts.
     
  12. chopnchaneled
    Joined: Oct 21, 2004
    Posts: 1,428

    chopnchaneled
    Member
    from Buford Ga.

    What Petejoe said,
    we will not pay over $100.00 for one, the other week we bought five engines,all were stored in an old warehouse and were long blocks. by the time we got them all torn down
    was able to use (1) one block all the rest were cracked along the pan rails or needed sleeveing.
    so don't let anyone tell you that their engine was a real good one and pay anymore than a 100.00 because only one in five is not very good odds. also the time involved in tearing one down is a lot, and then the machine shop cost to get it magnafluxed, Before you even start
    on the build.

    I agree that there is nothing that can beat the sound or looks of a fully dressed flathead
    and if thats where your going (full dressed ) be prepaired to spend in excess of $6500.00
    Like petejoe said: make sure your heart is in it, and i'll add wallet.
    good luck
     
  13. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    According to Bruce Lancaster, these water jacket to bolt-hole cracks have a Ford part-number! :D
     
  14. Casey
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,293

    Casey
    Member Emeritus

    funny but true , worth every penny :rolleyes: I love flathead`s best motors ever made .
     
  15. Flatman
    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,975

    Flatman
    Member

    Probably the worst cracks to find are between the valve seats, along the pan rails, or at the water pump mounting surfaces. Some can be repaired without spending too much, others aren't worth it. A machine shop should be able to steer you the right way if they're reputable.
    If you do buy one, try to get a return agreement with the seller in case the block's toast.

    Flatman
     

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