Geez--------you guys are sick----1 degree above ground level and you are done.This applies to everything.Period.
can someeone tell me how to set up my drivetrain? the car is a 1950 chevy fleetline, dropped in the rear about 6 inches with de arched leafs and lowering blocks. i have a chevy 292 straight 6 motor, t5 trans, s10 rear end 4wd axle, 373 ratio, and an astrovan driveshaft. reading this post did nothing but confuse me. how bout a simple line drawing?
Yeah this kat was odd, I used to be on OSR years ago and he did all this tech stuff. Seemed like most of the tech articles were featuring his 59 Ford wagon in em somehow but they definately did seem fraudulent to say the least. Cut and paste. He got wierd over there tho...like starting posts about "What defines attraction between two people" and wierdo sensual shit like that. No thanx...
My turn.. with out looking at any charts graphs or other wise useless info.. They way to set em up is 3 degrees down on the transmission and i didnt like the protractor on the trans i always shoot for the starter mount.. And either 3 up or down on the pinion and that should bring the drive shaft to zero. With the rearend centered in the frame from backing plate to backing plate it should work just fine.. Just remember though these are hot rods and mufflers mounted to solid will cause what feels like a drive line vibration.. Yup I know.. Dave
I think the only thing I learned from this thread is that I don't know crap bout this subject and I hope the driveline I am currently putting under the 'chero isn't fucked up... lol
Back to the original posted goal which would be correct if U joints work well in this position: <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> The principle goal of setting proper driveline angles is to have the u-joint angle at the transmission (or transfer case), and the u-joint angle at the pinion yoke as close to zero as possible <o></o> My take on this whole post after reading through is that 59Ford has gone to school and learned about dynamics and the loss of torque through angled U joints. In his statement about the goal of having everything as close to zero as possible he is correct that you would get your maximum torque this way butt He was then torn apart by the guys with the actual building and real life (not text books) experience that know you have to have a slight angel at the U joints or you will destroy your bearings from them not rotating. If a U joint is rotated a 0 degrees at a high torque all of the force would be on one location of the bearing creating heat and then failure. This is a case where experience trumped knowledge.
Man! I feel like the kid that missed out on the pinatta! I coulda taken a swing or two in this one. Oh well, maybe next time... I just send the ill-informed here. http://www.iedls.com/guide.html
I just enjoy the guy's writing style, and actually bumped a few of his posts, subscribing to each. Some of these had no comments, and it seemed had been buried! This one I hadn't read yet, and was planning to peruse after the kids went to bed. Looks like I have to take some of it with a grain of salt tonight... ~Jason
The Jalopy Journal
