how to fit a V8 between rad and firewall on an A

how are you guys getting room to put a V8 in a 1930 model A without modifying (cutting up) the firewall? i like the look of the stock firewall and mine is in perfect condition. my options , as i see it, are to stretch the frame enough to fit the motor ('59 cadillac 390) which doesn't bother me, or to cut the firewall loose and move it back a little in it's entirety along with moving the motor back, but then the shifter (S10 t5) gets moved back towards the seat.maybe a little of both operations are necc. i will be making the hood usable as an option so stretching the frame will require some work to the hood.
so, i am just looking for some feedback from others who have been in this position.
thanks, michael 831-753-7637

 

I know a fella did it with a little old Buick 215.

I have an Olds 215. It's inside the stock firewall about 2". If your Model A is a 30/31 the firewall can be flipped, but it requires work.

I have a Camaro T5 with an S-10 tail housing. It put my shifter just in front of the stock Model A middle cross member. For my application, that's about 4" forward of the seat base.

 

3 choices.....firewall mods, radiator move or body move.
The firewall you have a few options:
reverse, wheel barrel or flat sheet.

On a friends '30 he cut out the firewall leaving the band that bolts to the cowl, put in flat sheet, used both upper corners of the original firewall to make the recess for the distributor.

My '28 has a 4 banger .

 

Turn the firewall inside out , gets you a lot of space and very easy done too

 

Mine. Radiator moved forward.
.

 

Nice pic Rok. How far forward is that?

Any one else have a pic of a radiator forward? It just seems like a good way to buy some room.

Pics with hoods or hood tops only would be cool....

 

use a 32 frame !!

 

AND it looks awesome!

 

I too wanted to keep a stock looking firewall on my 30. I am running an aluminum Buick 215 taken to 300 via a Rover block, 300 heads and crank. Despite the small cubes, it is a big casting. Check the link below and you will see the firewall was modified but still looks stock. Where the lower part of the firewall starts to bend out, we trimmed the sides and pulled it back, giving back about 3" around the bellhousing. We also moved the cross member forward 2" keeping everything looking pretty well stock but giving a lot more room. Of course, this is a high boy with no hood but if you are only running a top hood, that is a pretty easy fix. As you can see, this is a work in progress. Keep the A frame, much cleaner.
Sorry, I haven't quite figured out posting pictures yet.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/52296758@N06/<VAR id=yiv1161733377yui-ie-cursor></VAR>

 

My 30 tudor used a sbc with an electric water pump. Firewall was stock other than the distributor recess and I had a 32 grill shell. I used my hood and didn't modify its length.

I don't know of the availibility of a pump for your motor.

 

Do what tmcracing suggested. Take the firewall out and reverse it ... you know, put it in backwards. No cuts, more room, and a definite "old skool" solution from back in the day. I know ... I was there.

 

To fit that engine you'll need to either recess the firewall, move the radiator forward, or find a big ass shoehorn!!!

 

I got a blown hemi with a 3" belt under a stock 31 hood. Carb tops and scoop out.
Reversing the firewall is pretty simple , its traditional! ! You loose the detail of the cowl/firewall intersection. Good bad or indifferent it happens.

The wheel barrow recess is pretty easy if you can weld.

There's some pretty cool threads on moving the fire walls back.
There's a few with 32 firewalls in 30-31 cowls.
There's a few recesses using exhaust tubing bends and the original fire wall. This looks like henry thought of it.

32 frame gets you a whole bunch of pluses and pros with the only con being some work..

 

You have 2 telling you to "just" flip the firewall around. I question if they have actually done it. I have, it's not just a flip. You have a wedge along both sides you have to re work not to mention it's spot welded every 3/8". Then the relief for pedals and steering column are now needing attention, as in change them back to the other side. Then you have the stamped bead going the wrong way and looks silly. To correct all this is a Shit Load of work. I get paid by the hour to do this kind of stuff so I don't care but to assume you just Flip it is just a bit under stated. I'll admit it looks good and well worth the work. You will also loose some foot room and the pedals will loose some travel if that matters to you.
The Wizzard

 

Stretch and box the frame just enough to get it in there. That will give you a better shifter position, versus the seat, too.

 

Thanks for posting that. Clarification is good.

I was also thinking that would be an option as well. Once fishplated and boxed I would think you'd be fine.

But I'd still like to see photos of radiators moved forward and lengthened hoods........

 

Moved the cross member and radiator forward. Works well and looks good to.

 

I think your going to move something maybe the body back and lengthen the frame at the kick up at the rear. It is possible to run the stock hood and move nothing with a flathead. Best of luck.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad193/fendtelecustom/Hot Rod/IMG_1477.jpg

 

Lengthening a hood isn't a simple matter. You won't see alot of hoods on A's with stretched wheel bases over 104" unless they spent the 500-600 bucks for an aftermarket hood.
Most of the A's on 32 frames here on the HAMB don't have a hood cause they stretch them a ton to fit the engine easily. Most look good that way (no hood) but with a 3-4 inch stretched hood, they might look a little out of balance.
I like your idea of keeping a hood top. Be careful how much you stretch that wheel base.

 

thanks for all the responses. i really don't want to reverse the firewall as i like factory lines as stock. i like the idea of moving the crossmember forward a little as i already need to change the angle of the crossmember to gain some caster.
i also like the idea of stretching the frame, here again just a little.
i also like the idea of just removing lower angled sections of the firewall.
has anybody cut the firewall loose and moved it straight back into the cowl to gain some room?
it sounds as though i will need to do a a little bit of a few options to sneak up on my final goal.
whoever has the link of putting a '32 firewall in an A could you please send it to me.

 

I think a little of each would be really good.

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=679856&highlight=model+with+32+firewalls

Here ya go

 

Thanks, just what I was hoping for.

I hear you loud and clear. I plan on just doing a one piece louvered hood top and I figure a Rootlieb one piece, 2" stretch wouldn't be too pricey
I'm just doing a 302, so thinking 2" here and 2" there (firewall) would just give me the extra room so I can run a mechanical fan, short waterpump and have it all fit comfortable.

Working out the options.

 

Quote; "has anybody cut the firewall loose and moved it straight back into the cowl to gain some room?"

I'm sure someone has done it. As for how easy, go look at your body. You'll notice it has a bit of tapper where the Cowell meets the firewall. To visualise what's involved picture an Ice Cream Cone. Now cut a 1" section right out of the center and try to set the Tip back on the lower section without a seam showing. That's the kind of job you'll be getting into. Also, if your leaving the pedals in the floor as they should be, think about what's going to be changing there.
The Wizzard

 

Reversed firewall gets you about 4". and like Pist N Broke says, is a bit of work. A recess and short water pump on a SBF should work. In my opinion the reversed design beads looks OK, but I may be biased. still the firewall is a bit of work to get looking good.



This is a reversed firewall with modified mounting feet and a approximate 4" recess as well. Cuts down on the foot room a bit, had to mount the seat as far back as possible and keep the seating position as high as possible. This all to keep the original 30 grill shell and full hood.

Canuck

 

This worked for me, 4" recess...

 

i think i will start with planning out moving the firewall straght back and remove the angled sections at the bottom of the firewall. i will try to photograph as i go and start a thread if anybody thinks going that route might work for them. once the firewall is back to where it looks good then i can see how much more room i need or how far the shifter sits towards the seat

 

Front crossmember is only moved forward 1 5/16'' and the hood top, when I have it on is lengthened the same.This might not help you much, as I have also fitted a 289 in the closed cab A I am doing and I have recessed the firewall and running a short waterpump to keep the stock hood.
Good luck with your project and enjoy the build.

 

I moved front x member forward.

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8364335&postcount=170