1. Mechanical fan or puller electric. What is the dimension from water pump CL to hood? 2. Proper belt parts 3. By pass hose & or- heater core or maybe a rear mounted auxiliary radiator. Redesign that header panel. It's already modified, you just need to do it correctly and so that the radiator fits in the forward position. I'll guess it takes less effort than getting that belt and pulley system in there. If you're in there modifying the header panel, make it as wide as you can. if you're cutting a little- no sense in not getting all you can out of it. More surface area will cool better than more core thickness.
what carb. you running. have you been adjusting them (leaning them ) to go faster, then you might be experiencing "lean heat". Like somebody said you could back off your timing,richen up your carb, that should reduce the heat. You might also look into increasing you fluid volume. How many qts.of fluid does you system hold. Whats your ratio between anti freeze and water. A direct fit radiator with at least 3 qts of fluid ,Spall straight blade fan (2")thick, Summit racing, might solve your issues.
[I had made with 4 rows of tubes totaling 96 with 15 fin per inch serpentine which created an air flow problem to the 3 row staggered 46 tube core with 8 flat fins per inch that cured the problem letting more air flow. A $325 lesson.[/QUOTE] I had the opposite experience with fins per inch. Years ago I had to buy a new radiator for the BBC pu I hauled a camper and horse trailer with. The first radiator, 4 core, would allow the temp to start climbing on x-way overpasses, let alone a decent hill. After the shop checking everything on the truck figuring it had to be the truck not the new radiator they discovered there was one for that application that had more fins to the inch. The number of additional fins was almost 3000. They ate the cost difference as they felt it was their mistake. With that radiator I never again had a heat problem. Have you given any thought to the possibility that the 4 core staggered tubes might have played a part in your problem.
If your engine is old and has never been in a hot tank your cooling jackets are probably dirty or plugged . Take out the rear freeze plugs and clean the sludge out . I used a water hose and a coat hanger . The right side always seems the dirtiest . If they are dirty, do the same to the others .
Have you given any thought to the possibility that the 4 core staggered tubes might have played a part in your problem.[/QUOTE] The 4 row core was not staggered.
Take off that front shroud. Put a air dam under the bottom and have the air force upward and have something on top of that brace were it look like it might have been cut a section out put something to cover that to hold the cold air in wen the air is getting forced in Im not sure if if im right. But look like you can relocate your alt to the top of the intake and put different pullys so you can put your mechanical fan. Even of you have to remove your radiator just to put the fan on first. Anyways this car was modded to fit that motor.
like this second photo how the belt is back toward the water pump more and then can put a mechanical fan. And puts the altinator in a easy place to maintain i was going to say put it at the bottom but im sure there no room for it. And then put the shroud on the inside of the radiator area instead of up out in the front.
I ran one of the flat faced flex type fans for a while till I moved the radiator forward on my '37. I had less the 1/2" between radiator and fan blades, but since the fan would lay flat on its face, I never had any issues of it hitting. It was bitch to get the bolts in, but it was all I had at the time. Even a little flex fan will move some air, and if you adjust pulley sizes, you can spin it up to help even more. The idea is to get air moving out away from the radiator and engine. I may still have a couple laying around if you want try one. Joe
Don't know but its a sweet looking ride!! You might be able to put a pan under the front to deflect air up into the rad area?
Note that most modern cars , even the ones with huge bumpers and almost no grill have almost totally closed the area off under the front bumper, rad and front suspension with large plastic panels . This forces air through the rad and from escaping under the car first..
Interesting .. everyone I know thinks 210 is panic temp for their cars. Then again I guess Satan would know something about heat!!
Placement of the temp is critical you might read 210 in front of an engine and 240 at the rear , It help to balance by useing a cross over in the rear , Use a temp gun Also , Believe it or not , cylinder 's closer to the fan run cooler as much as 20° If you want to get Tricky !!! Different heat ranges in each cylinder for the spark plugs can help also
Head to head, coolant threw intake ( cross over) OR line from EACH rear of head back to Radator ( off intake ) you might have to drill the holes & tap , if no equipped You can all so drill the end of each head, """Smoky""" did a lot of research on GM head coolant flow & hot spots in head, He also said that a Chevy MAX HP out put was @ 238-240 coolant temp , Not for shure on the temp but I know it was over 220 ,
At what speed do you think airflow though the radiator overtakes what the fan is capable of providing? I know it probably depends but 10mph, 20mph? Anyone with an electric fan that runs it while moving?
I looked through the whole thread and no one mentioned that the fan itself is blocking a tremendous amount of the area of that radiator! Look at the head on picture, look at how much of the cardboard you can actually see through the fan, It's only about half of the radiator area. Take a quick measure of the length and width of one of those fan blades, multiply those numbers by each other, that gives you the square inch area of one blade. Now multiply that by the number of blades. The add to that number the square inch area of the fan motor (PiR squared). The total is the number of square inches of core you're blocking ALL THE TIME, fan running or not. That's why pusher fans are not as good as pullers, they're always blocking part of the core. From what I read, your concern is that the engine is hotter when driving than idling, that's because when your driving, the heat generated by the load on the engine is much greater than the heat generated by an idling engine and you have a good potion of your radiator blocked by that fat bladed fan.
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