How to install a harmonic balancer on a 327?

What is the right way to do this? It is not tapered and the crank is not threaded to pull it on with a bolt. I don't want to damage the thrust bearing by using a hammer. Help a girl out here guys! Kathy

 

Pretty sure you **** a wood 2x4 against the balancer & striking the 2x4 with the hammer. Carl Hagan

 

Go to O'Riellys or NAPA or someplace like it and borrow or rent the tool for putting it on.

You can tap it on with a hammer and a punch but I can't recommend it for reasons you already stated. Do make sure that there are no burrs on the crank snout it'll make it go on a lot easier.

 

Traditionally, rodders just bash them on, but there is the issue that outer ring can separate from the rubber with dire potential consequences. "60's Chey books show an elaborate clamp tool that in effect clamps rim to hub to stabilize it during bashing...I think if you saw a picture of the tool, you could spend a few quality moments with some bar stock or angle iron and a handful of bolts and replicate the thing.

 

use a B F H and a br*** drift. make sure there are no burrs on either part and use a light coat of lubriplate[white lithium]on both parts. good luck.wood breaks on can give you splinters.
jim

 

Thanks! I will head to the parts house.
Kathy

 

If the crank is not threaded the tool wont work and BFH will be the only option dont hit outter ring. my small journal 327 definately has threads. Good Luck
G***hole

 

Kathy,
What are the chances of just drilling and tapping the end of the crank(any size between 3/8 to 1/2) then you can have a bolt there as a safety margin to make sure that it stays in place. I had one years ago in a Chev/Healy conversion that came loose at speed...it didn't have the bolt. And yes, after that I drilled and tapped the crank.
Skot

 

Had the same problem with my 283. I put the crank if a floor mount drill press. Drilled and taped the crank. No problems, worked great. Then I used my balancer tool and pushed on my crank gear and then finished up the motor by pushed on my balancer. Worked like a champ.

 

i used the biggest f'ing plastic mallet i could find, for my 327. deburr real well, lots of lube, and take it slow.
i was nervous as a *******, but things went way easier than i'd expected. no problems at all.

 

KY jelly and a big hammer

 

If you can support the opposite end of the crank so that the forces are against the thrust bearing.

Or if you have about a 4 foot clamp you can pull it on with that!


jerry

 

Any kind of lube can lead to it ( taking it's self off ) at a bad time.

D&T crank snout is you best deal - then use a ( puller ) style instalation tool.

A electrical bearing heater is also a good trick - the warmer it is - the more it expands - the easyer it will ( tap ) on.

 

heating the balancer helps, just dont get it hot enough to melt the rubber between the inner and outer ring.

Larry

ZZ types faster than me, a conventional oven will work fine, heat it to about 350 then go for it, but you hafta be quick as heat transfer wont take long

 

Thanks for all the help you guys. One of my HAMB buddies "Uncle Lee" is coming over tomorrow and we will drill and tap it. I would rather do it one time. My luck it would come off on the way to the Roundup! I love this place!!
Kathy

 

Been using those on the wife for years!

 

well ive built more than i can count 283 - 400 sbc and always used a BFH and a block of wood...i don't know about drill and tap bit...there good luck ........rooster

 

lost one once "back in the day" on an early 327..all small journal p***enger cranks were not drilled from the factory. it did not take long for us "racers" to figure out that it needed to be positively retained..hd truck cranks were drilled, and the factory made a running change when they went to large journal mains..mostly because the lg journal, long stroke motors required larger diameter, heavier balancers.(and they will not stay on without a bolt!!)
drill and tap to 7/16 ths fine thread..use a std crank bolt from the auto parts store.. # 945 mr gasket , if my memory still works.. then you can use the installer tool and avoid the hammer!
dave

 

Use two hammers. In the picture you use the small hammer (br*** ends) by placing it at various places on the balancer (work it on top, bottom, left, right) and then strike it with the other hammer.

Takes about 5 to 10 minutes. Bang it on slow, don't try to do it in 5 blows, it will take about 50 blows.

 

I built an alignment jig out of angle item, threaded rods and unthreaded spacers. Used it to drill progressively large holes in the crankshaft up to 25/64". The tapped it with a 7/16-20 bottoming tap. Allowed me to use the harmonic balancer installation tool.

 

That's what I have done , Drill & Tap , Not hard , just be patient .

 

Boil it in water - slap it on.

Oldmics