I need some help! I am ready to install new gl*** in my '30 Ford Coupe's windshield frame. I have new gl*** from Mac's Antique Auto and the rubberized cork material that goes between the frame and the gl***. The channel that the gl*** fits into is all cleaned out. Now for my question. Do you put the rubberized cork into the channel and then attempt to slide the gl*** in? Or: If you are supposed to wrap the rubberized cork material around the gl*** first and then attempt to slide this into the frame, how do you hold the material to the gl***? It comes in a flat strip. I tried to wrap it around the gl*** and hold it in place with masking tape but this was a no go for me. I also ***ume the corners need to be mitered. Is this correct? I did see in a Bratton's catalog that the rubber side should go against the gl*** but no additional info. I used the same rubberized cork material at the lower portion of the door gl***. I folded it and slightly inserted it into the sheetmetal channel. I then lubricated it with a soap solution and pushed the door gl*** down into the channel. Even with the lubrication this took a lot of down force. I am thinking that this will not work for the windshield gl*** as I would have the additional friction area of the sides as well as the bottom to overcome. How do I do this installation? Any suggestions are welcome.
Don't use the cork tape. Get a couple tubes of automotive gl*** setting urethane. The black, gooey, staining stuff. Test fit the gl*** into the frame dry first, to make sure it will fit. Even screw the top on to check. Then pull back apart. Put a thick bead in the channel all around, then slide the gl*** into the channel. Put some urethane into the channel in the top part and install that. Tighten up the screws. Now you will probably have places where it is squishing out like mad, and others with no squish. Add a bead to the places with no squish to ***ure full sealing. Take a paper towel soaked in turpentine, sqeeze it mostly dry, then carefully rub the excess urethane off. Keep turning the towel to a clean spot and wipe some more. This will probably take a whole roll of towels till it looks nice and smooth. Then turn over and repeat on other side. Make sure you don't stop til it's all clean and smooth, or it'll harden that way. Let the thing set up for a couple days when its all clean. Then install and be leak-free
alchemy! Thanks for the TIP! Was in the middle of trying to do the same as frisco on mine. ('28) Gave up trying to keep the tape in place and "banging" on the gl*** for fear of breaking the NEW windshield! (only question is; how the hell do you get the gl*** out of the "goop" if it gets broken??) (again)
Yes you have to miter the edges of the tape, I used electrical tape and most of it came out, I think some it may still be in the frame. MarkX and I used the setting tape on my A windshield and it took a hell of a lot of pushing and clamping to get it properly installed. We only cracked a small part in the corner after Rashy showed up. That's where I put my first Hunnert Car Pileup sticker. Once it's in though it works well. Next time I'm letting the gl*** shop do it.
alchemy this sounds like the way to go. Thank you. It got me to thinking and I wonder if clear RTV would work equally as well as the compound you suggested? Seems like it might be easier for cleanup and can be trimmed after it sets easily. What do you think? Thanks also to the other folks that replied.
Yeah, or what about some of that 30 year silicone caulk? I know my grandfather used that to set the gl*** in on his solar roof on his house back in about '72 and it's still leak free. That roof takes a hell of a lot more sun/weather/general abuse than a windshield would. It's cheap, too. Hmmm...
UPDATE Well I installed the windshield gl*** with clear silicone caulking material. It took less than one tube (the size that fits in a standard caulking gun) to do the job. I filled the side and bottom channel full and then set the gl*** in the frame. I then filled the channel of the top section full and set it in place. Had to tap on the ends of the top section with a rubber mallet to get the 'L' brackets all the way in place. I installed all the screws to hold the top section in place. Lot of extra caulk came out from the side sections when setting the gl*** in place. So far looks great. I will let it set for at least 24 hours before t******* off the excess caulk and doing a general "clean up". Thanks again for the suggestions!
Well, I have never been one to try something new just because it is "easier". I personally wouldn't use the clear silicone (too late for you guys), because the auto parts manufacturers would have gone to silicone years ago if it was "better". I'll just stick with the urethane. Let us know in a year or so how the sillycone works.
alchemy I want to Thank You again. Although I did use a different product than the one you suggested, the procedure was the same as you mentioned. It worked out very well and the clean-up was in fact "easy". Just trimmed off the excess with a single edge razor blade and then used window cleaner. I installed the completed frame ***embly on the coupe last night. I will post how it last in a year or so. I expect it to be fine as I have used the same product in high heat areas (front and rear valley area of SBC intake manifolds and to "glue" cork gaskets to aluminum valve covers) with excellent results.
The last time I installed gl*** like this using the rubber-cork product, I used new motor oil on the cork, on both sides. Lets it all slide togetherwth alot less hammering. Also helps set in nice and tight and prevents some rusting in the frame. Gene
Do not use glue, uhrethane or rtv you will never get out the gl*** if you have too relace it maybe if you use a thinner packing packing tape, tar based not cork thinner in thickness so you don't have to pound it on and then go back and put a small bead of black silicone around the age and razor blade it off so it's clean, but you will get the best results using the right thickness of packing tape, midor the corners, fold in half and spray down with gl*** cleaner before you install gl*** into frame. Any more questions PM me. Thanks, Tony
Todays windshields are more of a structural member to the body, that's why they use urethane. Silicone can't be worse than using tape. The only problem as was previously mentioned is trying to get the gl*** out in the future. I have used silicone on side gl*** channels and works great.
My brother has a gl*** shop and told me long ago not to use silicone as it attacks the metal if unprotected.
My gl*** guy had several differant thicknesses of that cork/rubber tape, we picked the one that fit snug knowing of course that cork will swell up a bit.....I think that silicone or any other goo would just be the wrong way to do it.
Well I'll tell ya how I did the one on my deuce...None of the gl*** shops around here had a clue, i only had one thickness of the cork tape ****, and after messing with it every way from Sunday, i decided there was no way it was gonna jam in there without either A. busting the gl*** or B. scratching the hell out of my 600.00 chrome windshield frame in the process of wrestling with it. I ended up getting a roll of old school cloth style electric tape, putting about 3 layers around the perimeter of the gl*** til it slid in the frame nice and snug, bolted on the top of the frame, trimmed the excess, and presto, it's done. Has worked great... as for being water tight... hello... its a roadster. There's a helluva lot of other parts of the car that aren't water tight, i dont think it's gonna matter if a tiny bit can get past the windshield frame as the rest of the rain is pouring in everywhere else.
I ma just getting ready to put the windshield in my 29. how did the silicon material work out for you?
The gl*** guy I used to use (he retired) advised motor oil also, and I know for a fact he knows what he is doing. He was the most meticulous person I have ever known! Mike Forrette
Never use urethane, unless you are sending the car down the road. You'll never get it out if you need to replace it. I use black silicone.
Please note that frisco was last seen on this site in 2012 so you're not likely to get a direct answer. I too have heard that the glacial acetic acid in silicone attacks the metal frame...and have used urethane. Lloyd does paint and gl*** for a living...so what do I know?
You're correct about silicone, it does cause issues, but that's the way i was taught when I was young and new in the gl*** industry. I've seen numerous cars where people smeared silicone in an attempt to fix a leak only to eat the paint off. But it's the lesser of 2 evils when it comes to putting the gl*** in the model a frame versus urethane. If you paint the frame with good paint, i doubt you'd ever see a problem in our lifetime. The set tape is the way to go in a restoration, but this isn't a restoration site.
Don't use the cork tape. Snyders or Brattons has rubber gl*** setting material. I has a U shape and will stay on the gl*** while you work. A little dot of Super Glue and it won't tend to creep so much. Only cut 45 degree angles on the inside and outside and leave the edge part alone. Let the edge part wrap around the corners and Super Glue them. The rubber channel is thinner (3/32") than the cork stuff sold by most Model A parts vendors. (1/8"). Cut and ***emble the rubber to the gl***, coat with liquid soap, stand the frame upright on a flat surface covered with carpet and, using a rubber mallet, pound it straight down into the channels. Be careful and have a helper hold the frame upright. Gl*** can take a lot of pounding when it's standing plumb on edge. Be sure the frame channels are absolutely clean. Good luck...
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