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Technical how to shorten steering column

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bluethunder86, May 1, 2014.

  1. Bluethunder86
    Joined: Oct 18, 2013
    Posts: 12

    Bluethunder86
    Member
    from North East

    i got a stock 1957 chevy truck steering column, i just got done bolting it up to the bottom dash and frame. looking at it with the steering wheel on i noticed that it is higher than i thought. with new 96 chevy pickup bucket seats going in i know they sit lower than the old bench seat. i dont want my steering wheel in my rib cage so i was hoping to cut 2 or three inches off. how do you shorten the steering column? i wont be using the original shift linkage because i upgraded the trans to floor shift and im also sticking to manual steering for a classic look. any help will do, pics are even better. thanks guys.
     
  2. Not familiar with that particular column.
    So pics will help.

    Shortening the box end is pretty easy though. If your colum will just slide further into the dash you are way ahead of the game.

    The hard part is the splines on the box end.
    If the shaft is the right size to make it a double D end your almost golden.
    There's probably some bearing and retaining mechanism in the end of it.
    You'll want to cut above that, me move a section then weld it back together.
    Then cut the shaft and grind it to double D specs. Go slow measure often and keep the crap out of the bearings.
     
  3. nickleone
    Joined: Jun 14, 2007
    Posts: 476

    nickleone
    Member

    In a past life I worked on Handicapped van conversions(it was pc then)
    We made columns LONGER.
    We kept the stock auto column shift setup.
    Of course modern vans had a column and a steering box separated by a rag joint etc.
    We cut the outer column cover above the connection to the shift rod(in the engine compartment) to get to the shift portion of the column and that was then cut and the
    steering shaft was cut and sleeved with an extension that was rosette welded to the shaft.
    If you are eliminating the shift mech. I would cut the steering shaft if it attaches to the steering box and add universals to the shaft. Making the shaft shorter in the cab at the same time. You will need to remove the bracket that holds it to the dash and reposition.

    Safety people insert comments here.................
    The work we did was acceptable to the government agencies involved and we had an engineer on staff.

    Nick
     
  4. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,207

    HemiRambler
    Member

    The only thing I'll add is IF you're going to do the "double D" thing - first make sure that the OD is .750 dia to start with (or whatever you're mating it to) - I just did this to my '47 truck and found out that it was .760 dia. no amount of flat is gonna fix that. The really nice part about the "Double D" approach is that you can tweak it to exactly the length you need it. If you're really goofy - you can even duplicate the original "plastic" inserts and retain the collapsible feature. I've had good luck doing it both ways.
     
  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member

    That stock 57 column should be a one piece inner shaft from the worm gear, to the steering wheel, and an outer tube that is clamped or screwed into the steering box.

    If so;

    You remove the outer tube to be able to get at the inner shaft. The tube should slide off once you take off the wheel, etc.

    Now cut and reweld the inner shaft. Weld it straight by using a short piece of angle iron to clamp the two parts to. Then shorten the exact same amount off the bottom of the tube. If it is like a 56 Ford I just did, the outer tube won't need rewelding. It just slides over the steering box casted boss, with a clamp.
     
  6. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,207

    HemiRambler
    Member

    The box F&J describes how my '47 was - only thing was that I had changed to a GM box - so I added the butterfly end and "Double D" stuff as well. Not knowing if you're working with a stock box as F&J mentions or a later box may change the way you approach this.
     
  7. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,411

    Corn Fed
    Member

    On my F100 column, I did it like F&J suggested, but I also slid a tight fitting tube about 6-8" long over the joint and welded the ends of it 360 degrees as well as a few plug welds on the middle. It works best if you do it about in the middle of the shaft instead of close to an end. That way you can straighten the shaft if needed.
     
  8. SimonSez
    Joined: Jul 1, 2001
    Posts: 1,664

    SimonSez
    Member


    If you are going to do this, make sure your steering box is in good condition first - once you have the sleeve welded on to the steering shaft won't be able to get it out of the steering box if you need to rebuild it!
     
  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,255

    squirrel
    Member

    nope, the outer tube is part of the steering gear housing.

    Make sure you have a 57-59 steering setup, instead of a 55-56. In 57 they went from a flat steering wheel, to a dished steering wheel, and the column got a few inches shorter. I can measure them tomorrow, I have one of each in my shed
     
  10. Bluethunder86
    Joined: Oct 18, 2013
    Posts: 12

    Bluethunder86
    Member
    from North East

    Yes I have the fifty seven steering column. I'm at work so when I get home I'll have to take a look at my spare 57 column and see what can be done. The spares splines on the steering wheel end have been mashed to the point where I know someone had trouble getting it off and used a hammer and the steering box is sloppy. Try on one before cutting the good one.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,255

    squirrel
    Member

    Seems like shortening the steering column is a lot of work, to fix a problem with your seat mounting.
     
  12. Bluethunder86
    Joined: Oct 18, 2013
    Posts: 12

    Bluethunder86
    Member
    from North East

    I was considering making a raised box for the new seat to sit on. At least to make it so I can arm strong the wheel without hurting my self

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,255

    squirrel
    Member

    I installed a Cadillac seat in my 59 truck in 1980, finally got smart and took it out and replaced it with a stocker in 1985. I've been riding in comfort ever since.
     
  14. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,411

    Corn Fed
    Member

    It's been about 10 years since I did it, but I had it apart for the welding. The tube must have been thin wall enough to just clear the housing.
     

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